HELP with Fuel Pump Hard-Wire (PIC inside)...

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  • DaveSmed
    replied
    Originally posted by crxb16t
    Thats why i relocated mine. Make my engine bay look purdy. +1 on the bent fuse trick, -1 on losing at least 10 30 amp fuses in my garage lolz
    Says the man who seemed to enjoy having a working blower motor the other night.... ;)

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  • crxb16t
    replied
    Originally posted by DaveSmed
    Give this trick a whirl, much less likely to result in fireworks, and you don't need to cut or rig anything.


    eww. dirty relays.
    Thats why i relocated mine. Make my engine bay look purdy. +1 on the bent fuse trick, -1 on losing at least 10 30 amp fuses in my garage lolz

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  • DaveSmed
    replied
    Originally posted by TurboMeTroy
    Cool - Thanks!
    Any...zoomed out shots?
    Sure, what do you need a zoomed out shot of? I just grabbed those real quick as I was posting. Oh, document it up, never know when it might help someone else.


    Nando, that fuse has some mileage on it, very handy for testing stuff especially the damn fuel pumps that are hot on crank/run only. I have some other neat creations too, like a two prong 110v plug and some wire attatched to a fuse. One of the blades is twisted 90 degrees and it works great for most normal relays where 30 and 87 are at opposite ends of the relay. That comes in real handy as well.

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  • TurboMeTroy
    replied
    here goes it...should I document this? ;)

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  • nando
    replied
    that's a great idea dave. I have a whole bag of fuses I could use for something like this..

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  • TurboMeTroy
    replied
    Cool - Thanks!
    Any...zoomed out shots?

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  • DaveSmed
    replied
    BTW, you have two fuel pumps. The in tank one is a low pressure transfer pump, and the one under the car, in front of the LR wheel is the high pressure main pump. (right above the fuel filter) They both should make some sort of noise with that fuse in there.

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  • DaveSmed
    replied
    Give this trick a whirl, much less likely to result in fireworks, and you don't need to cut or rig anything.






    eww. dirty relays.

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  • TurboMeTroy
    replied
    Ha - Well...difficult start ups and doesn't exactly run like a finely-tuned piece of German machinery like it should. I replaced the: coil, plugs, Wires, Distrb., Air filter...and thought the fuel system might need some attention...so I going to just hard wire the pump to ensure the pump is working and see if it made the car run any smoother if I had the peace of mind that fuel pump was indeed pumping ...and the relay would be bypassed.

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  • DaveSmed
    replied
    Ok, thought it was an odd hobby. What is your car doing/not doing/sometimes doing/sometimes not doing/doing on Wednesdays that your trying to change?

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  • TurboMeTroy
    replied
    Originally posted by DaveSmed
    You have just succeeded in making your fuel level sender extremely unhappy. May as well remove the four nuts holding it in and chuck it and go get a new one now.

    What in the hell are you trying to do besides break stuff/engulf your car in flame if you don't mind me asking? WHY would anyone want to hotwire a transfer pump is beyond me.

    BTW the pumps only run when the engine is turning= cranking or running.
    Well Dave - No, I wasn't trying to break stuff or engulf my car in a single flame. .
    And I just love wiring transfer pumps, it's an ol' past time of mine.

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  • Disaster Inc
    replied
    Originally posted by NC325iC
    look to my post
    Your post is what got me thinking about it... so my question I guess is which wire to which side is correct?

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  • NC325iC
    replied
    Originally posted by Disaster Inc
    Does it matter if the two wires are reversed on the pump? The original plug was hacked on mine, it works/runs now. I'd go outside to look which is on which side but its fuckin cold.
    look to my post

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  • Disaster Inc
    replied
    Does it matter if the two wires are reversed on the pump? The original plug was hacked on mine, it works/runs now. I'd go outside to look which is on which side but its fuckin cold.

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  • Rocla
    replied
    Brown should be ground and green/violet should be the +12 from fuse 11.

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