Coilovers make uncentered wheels worse?

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  • jeffmn8
    replied
    Originally posted by yanal
    Thanks for the detailed answer Garey, I have a proper setup in my car using all of the correct parts and the wheels sit perfectly, so hopefully I wouldn't have a problem when I switch to a shorter housings.

    OP I'd use screws extractor, they're around $10 from Sears and works perfectly.
    You shouldn't have an issue. I have a full e36 m3 setup with tree house lollipops and e36 GCs with shortened housings.

    Wheels are almost perfectly centered.

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  • yanal
    replied
    Thanks for the detailed answer Garey, I have a proper setup in my car using all of the correct parts and the wheels sit perfectly, so hopefully I wouldn't have a problem when I switch to a shorter housings.

    OP I'd use screws extractor, they're around $10 from Sears and works perfectly.

    Leave a comment:


  • carlb
    replied
    LOL. I figured out I can change the bearing/wheel assembly + rotors together with no problems. Don't know why I didn't just give that a try yesterday. But, on the way back from buying some better drill bits it hit me as an obvious thing to try. Doh!

    I'm just going to replace the bearings anyway since I'm in there and they will at this point be the only item that I haven't replaced (save the M3 brake calipers) in my front suspension. So, it just make sense to get that done too.

    This suspension on this car has been fubar'd since the beginning. I'm hoping that - after replacing virtually all of it - that I'm good to go and I can drive the heck out of the car until my engine swap gets going <fingers crossed>

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  • Roysneon
    replied
    Drill them out.

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  • carlb
    replied
    Am I the only one who can't get the rotor bolts off. They are both seized. I've put plenty of liquid wrench on them. Waited a long time. They won't budge. The passenger side one is now stripped. And, I'm thoroughly frustrated as if it's not one thing, it's another.

    Thought about replacing the whole hub/wheel bearing assembly and new rotors and just trashing the whole lot. But, it seems there's that dust shield thing that is apparently more than just a dust shield between the spindle and the wheel bearing hub.

    Any advice? Thx.

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  • accident
    replied
    Originally posted by MR 325
    Impact is what I prefer. ;)
    This. If you're going to be working on your own car regularly, invest in a cordless electric impact gun. They're fucking awesome.

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  • MR 325
    replied
    Impact is what I prefer. ;)

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  • carlb
    replied
    Is the only way to get the axle nut off is to have someone stomp on the brakes while you pull like hell on a pry bar?

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  • bmwmech1
    replied
    Originally posted by carlb
    Thanks. I'll check it out. That's a big-ass fracking nut. Tool search keeps slowing my roll!

    Sent from my PI39100 using Board Express
    Yeah, that's the only thing I use that 46mm socket for... E36, E34, E32, E46 front hubs, but when you need it, you need it...

    Garey

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  • carlb
    replied
    Thanks. I'll check it out. That's a big-ass fracking nut. Tool search keeps slowing my roll!

    Sent from my PI39100 using Board Express

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  • bmwmech1
    replied
    Originally posted by carlb
    So, where the heck does one find a 46mm socket? No luck at any auto store or sears.

    Sent from my PI39100 using Board Express
    Snap On, Mac, etc. I don't know if Harbor Freight carries a set with one that size, but if they do, the set may be cheaper than a single socket from Snap On, lol. I know mine was around $60-70 from Snap On, so it might be worth looking into...

    Garey

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  • carlb
    replied
    So, where the heck does one find a 46mm socket? No luck at any auto store or sears.

    Sent from my PI39100 using Board Express

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  • carlb
    replied
    Thanks. Will change out and report back.

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  • bmwmech1
    replied
    Look at the picture of the 2 control arms... see how the new arm has the center of the ball joint hole pushed forward more than the old arm? That new arm is a legit M3 arm that you want, the other looks to just be a standard arm. The spindle pictures tell the same kind of story... check out the centerline of the balljoint hole vs. the lower rear strut mounting hole. On the spindle that was on your car, the hole centerlines match up, on the new spindle they do not. The differences are subtle, but they do matter when you're looking at where the wheel sits in relationship to the wheel opening, once everything is bolted together. At least now you know where your problem lies... change it around when you have time.

    Garey

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  • carlb
    replied
    I just noticed that the spindle in the first pic has the tops of the brake mounts ground down. So, I'm thinking these are non-M spindles and that mod allowed the M brakes to bolt right up.

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