brakes failed: LEAKING FROM SUBFRAME :( ?

[KVF]

Unfortunately, that does appear to be the long line that comes from the front of the car. Getting it off the t fitting is the easy part. That line appears heavily rusted, and once you start tracing it, you'll find it does not section off; it runs all the way up the ds fender into the bottom off some sort of plunger type connection. Replacing that line separates the men from the boys! Hopefully I'm wrong and the line in question just leads to you trailing arm rubber lines, but I'm pretty sure I'm correct. Good luck!

[Pussy30]

i'm going to drive down to guten right now to pick up a trans for my friend.

<3

[lolcantturn]

narrowed it down to the T-fitting. It almost doesn't seem like the hardline is burst persay, but it's leaking right from where the line meets the fitting.



I'm going to drive down to Guten right now to pick up a trans for my friend. I let it soak in Liquid wrench for the time being and then I'll decide on how to remove it. It doesn't look terribly too rusted.

[lolcantturn]

You are on east coast, chances are a metal T adapter or lines rusted through.. ... why not get the car on the jack stands, get under there with a flash light and mirror and inspect it all?

The car's lived in warm Georgia weather all its life until I bought it. Almost completely rust-free. The T-fitting does look rusted as fuck though.

It's best to lower your rear subframe and replace the T fitting and all of the rear brake lines. You don't have to take the subframe out. Support it with a jack, unbolt the hex bolts at the bottom of the quarters and the two subframe bushing bolts and pry the subframe down. Makes it much easier. I grabbed copper line from autozone and replaced all of the hardlines. It's easier to bend and will never rust. You just need a bubble flare tool. The hardest line to deal with is the long one that runs from the middle of the t junction to the front of the car. You'll seriously test your patience reaching the front fitting on the drivers side fender. Unfortunately, from your video it looks like this may be the line that busted... Hard to really tell cause its a bit shaky when you try to focus on the t junction.

BTW... The way Massive explains is definitely easier, but just remember that you'll need to buy new rubber lines (or stainless) at that point as well. Search replacing hardlines and you'll find a few good write ups on the job. Take your time and get it done correctly, it doesn't get any more critical than brakes and tires. Good luck.

Much appreciated man. I'm going to see what I can do without dropping the subframe first. The way you explained it it seems less nerveracking, but I'll drop it if I have to. I have pretty tiny hands that have been useful in getting me out of tough E30 situations before, so I hope they come in handy here. If not, I'll definitely be dropping the subframe.

Yep. KVF is 100 percent right here. Don't even bother trying to loosen the T-fitting from your chassis. It is rusted in place.

This is a terrible job to have to do. Good luck dude.

Thanks man. :(

If you're pressed for time and don't mind it not looking good, you can cut the old sections and just leave the old T fitting attached to the car, then run lines in a new location with a new T fitting. As long as they're away from all moving parts they'll be fine not being in the original location.

I was thinking this. This is true. If worst comes to worst, and I can't drop the subframe for whatever reason, this will be a last resort.



Unfortunately it is 25* below normal here in Jersey.. (It's 25* out, should be mid 50's) so this is going to be extremely aggravating to say the least.
I'm going to at least try and get the old T-fitting out and then make a plan of action.

[E30SPDFRK]

If you're pressed for time and don't mind it not looking good, you can cut the old sections and just leave the old T fitting attached to the car, then run lines in a new location with a new T fitting. As long as they're away from all moving parts they'll be fine not being in the original location.

[FredK]

It's best to lower your rear subframe and replace the T fitting and all of the rear brake lines.

Yep. KVF is 100 percent right here. Don't even bother trying to loosen the T-fitting from your chassis. It is rusted in place.

This is a terrible job to have to do. Good luck dude.

[KVF]

It's best to lower your rear subframe and replace the T fitting and all of the rear brake lines. You don't have to take the subframe out. Support it with a jack, unbolt the hex bolts at the bottom of the quarters and the two subframe bushing bolts and pry the subframe down. Makes it much easier. I grabbed copper line from autozone and replaced all of the hardlines. It's easier to bend and will never rust. You just need a bubble flare tool. The hardest line to deal with is the long one that runs from the middle of the t junction to the front of the car. You'll seriously test your patience reaching the front fitting on the drivers side fender. Unfortunately, from your video it looks like this may be the line that busted... Hard to really tell cause its a bit shaky when you try to focus on the t junction.

BTW... The way Massive explains is definitely easier, but just remember that you'll need to buy new rubber lines (or stainless) at that point as well. Search replacing hardlines and you'll find a few good write ups on the job. Take your time and get it done correctly, it doesn't get any more critical than brakes and tires. Good luck.

[Jean]

You are on east coast, chances are a metal T adapter or lines rusted through.. ... why not get the car on the jack stands, get under there with a flash light and mirror and inspect it all?

[lolcantturn]

I had the same problem last year and I didn't cut anything I unbolted bent a new line and screwed it back in the junction fitting. it was a bitch of a job!

Can you state the steps you did? Was it a burst hard line or rubber line? I'm clueless on how to approach this, but I am cutting it to avoid stripping anything

[Ceeker]

I had the same problem last year and I didn't cut anything I unbolted bent a new line and screwed it back in the junction fitting. it was a bitch of a job!

[lolcantturn]

I'm so confused I wish there was a proper diagram for this all haha (realoem doesn't help much)

[redhatpat]

Yeah, you still have the clearance issue when you reinstall the brake line, but you also aren't dealing with an old, rusty fitting either.

[Sagaris]

I replaced all my brake lines EXCEPT those 2 under the rear subframe. If you cut the line like you say, how do you get the new one on? arent you faced with the same clearance issues?

[lolcantturn]

maybe time for stainless steel brake lines.

Yes, i'm currently on that haha.

^^^ He's talking about the rubber line that goes from the car to the
trailing arm. The end of the line on the trailing arm is easy to reach
and undo but the other end is in a pretty tight spot above the subframe
and fitting two wrench in there is a royal pain. His method works
great used it a few time btw.

Of course if you do this you will need new lines...

Charley

so by cutting the line and using a socket to take it out, I'll eliminate the need to use a wrench, and i'll also be able to replace the line that burst on me right?
I'm very noobish when it comes to brakes, I've actually never had the need to service them or do anything with them since I bought my E30 so this is a first time thing really.

[bernzpeed]

maybe time for stainless steel brake lines.