shocks, springs, bushings and ?? suspesion overhaul.

[Maluco]

Now, the treehouse racing eyeball arms, do those replace the control arm bushings? i need to buy a god damn bentley (i would assume those have pictures of the parts and how they go on)

In the meantime, you can research realoem.com

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...61&hg=31&fg=05

[silversleeper]

Now, the treehouse racing eyeball arms, do those replace the control arm bushings? i need to buy a god damn bentley (i would assume those have pictures of the parts and how they go on)

[Maluco]

no prob, let me know.

[LivingLegend06]

in the front you forgot sway bar bushings and sway bar links... I guarantee you those will also need to be changed. While I was in the front I went ahead and rebuilt my steering rack, PS pump, replaced all 3 PS hoses and the resevoir. If you have the money and time, do that as well as it will proabably be going out soon. The convenience of buying a new CA is that the ball joint already come installed. However, if you have access to a hydraulic press, I found removing and installing new ones quite straight forward. The CA lists for 150 as oppsosed to the inner and outer BJ totals just under 70.

Also, let me know what prices you are coming up with for all those components and I should be able to beat them.

I think that i will be doing most of this, so when I get a little time over my spring break(which is this coming week for me) ill send you a message and maby you can help me get the parts I need.

[Maluco]

Thank you! I think I am going to make some calls tomorrow and see if I can find a shop that does this on a regular basis instead :)

That's not really a bad idea. If you were in Dallas, I would tell you to come to our shop. List is ridiculously high on the rack, buying used sets you up for another rack that is just as bad or soon in need or being replaced or rebuilt. Rebuilding is the way to go. Even the kit lists for $120. Let me know what prices you come up with for the repair/seal kit and I will beat it for sure... Good Luck

[Jean]

Thank you! I think I am going to make some calls tomorrow and see if I can find a shop that does this on a regular basis instead :)

[Maluco]

Maluco, can you PM me with how you rebuilt your steering rack ?

Thanks!

I'm sorry but I didn't take any pictures and I regret it madly. It would have been a much needed write up for sure. I can say however that it is pretty straight forward if you have a few needed tools and pay attention to where and how things go. The below is all I gots.....



Disassembly

1. Remove clamps securing rack boots, and pull back boots to expose tie rod joint.
2. Bend up tabs on tie rod lock plates, position rack as needed to secure rack with suitable spanner, then remove tie rods.
3. Disconnect and remove fluid lines.
4. Remove cap spring and spacer from rack adjuster pressure piece, Fig. 1.
5. Thread self-tapping screw into pressure piece, then remove pressure piece along with seal and plastic insulator.
6. Pull off cap protecting pinion steering spindle, then ensure rack is centered.
7. Mark position of steering spindle, valve body housing and gear housing in relation to each other.
8. Remove valve housing bolts, the housing and pinion assembly, and the housing O-ring.
9. Remove pinion and thrust washer from valve housing, then the seal and bearing, noting installation position.
10. Mark position of cylindrical tube (22), Fig. 1, in relation to gear housing, then loosen ring nut and remove tube.
11. Withdraw rack assembly from gear housing, then remove piston assembly (11-14) and cylindrical tube (8), Fig. 1, from rack, noting installation position for assembly.
12. Remove seal, spacer, snap ring and friction washer (4-7) from tube (8), Fig. 1, then drive seal and support ring out of opposite end of tube.
13. Insert screwdriver through slot in bearing retainer in tube (22), Fig. 1, and drive remove seal and support ring.
14. Remove seal (1) and snap ring (18) from end of tube (22), Fig. 1.
15. Remove seal and piston ring from piston.
16. Inspect components and replace any that are damaged, deformed or excessively worn.

Replace seals and O-rings, and coat seal and friction surfaces with hydraulic fluid during assembly.

1. Replace pinion shaft seal in gear housing, as needed, ensure seal is fully seated, then pack seal lip with grease.
2. Install support ring into tube (8), Fig. 1, with chamfer facing inside of tube, then press seal into tube with open end facing out.
3. Cover cuts in rack with cellophane tape to prevent seal damage, then slide tube (8) over rack and remove tape.
4. Install friction washer, snap ring, spacer and O-ring on end of tube (8), Fig. 1.
5. Install piston, washers, O-ring and circlips (11-14) on rack, Fig. 1, in position noted during disassembly.
6. Install O-ring and piston ring on rack piston, then coat assembly with hydraulic fluid.
7. Install support ring and seal (10) into tube (22), Fig. 1, ensuring seal is fully seated and that open end faces up.
8. Measure and record thickness of snap ring (18), then install snap ring and new O-ring over end of tube (22).
9. Insert rack into tube assembly (22), slightly compressing piston ring to prevent damage, and ensure tube is flush with friction washer (7), Fig. 1.
10. Lubricate rack teeth with grease, then insert rack assembly into gear housing and tighten ring nut.
11. Ensure rack teeth are properly positioned and that mounting flanges on tube and housing are aligned horizontally, then torque ring nut. Ring nut torque is dependent upon thickness of snap ring (18), Fig. 1, recorded in step 8. If snap ring is .098 inch thick, torque ring nut to 87 ft. lbs. If snap ring is .138 inch thick, torque ring nut to 108 ft. lbs.
12. Install seals (88) and round seals (87) onto pinion valve body, ensuring round seals are positioned on top, then coat assembly with hydraulic fluid.
13. Center rack in gear housing, ensuring distance between ends of rack and cylinder stops (A), Fig. 2, is 2.835 inches on both sides.
14. Coat pinion splines with grease, then insert pinion into gear housing, ensuring marks made during disassembly are aligned.
15. Install new oil seal in valve body housing with open end facing in, then install the bearing, ensuring both bearing and seal are fully seated.
16. Position valve body seal on gear housing, install valve body housing ensuring matching marks are aligned. Tighten to specifications.
17. Pack spindle cap with grease, then install cap, aligning tab on cap with slot in housing.
18. Install new seal and plastic insulator on rack adjuster pressure piece, then insert assembly into gear housing.
19. Install adjuster spring, spacer and cap. Tighten cap bolts to specifications.
20. Install fluid lines, using new seals on union bolts. Tighten union bolts to specifications.
21. Install rack boots, tie rod lock plates and tie rods, secure rack with suitable spanner. Tighten tie rods to specifications.
22. Secure rack boots with clamps, install steering gear and check operation.

[Jean]

I went ahead and rebuilt my steering rack, PS pump, replaced all 3 PS hoses and the resevoir.

Maluco, can you PM me with how you rebuilt your steering rack ?

Thanks!

[Maluco]

Here's a short list of what we recommend
Front
Springs, shocks, control arm bushings (2), inner ball joint (2), outer ball joint(2), tie rod ends (2), strut mount/bearing.

Rear
Subframe bushings(2), trailing arm bushings, springs, shocks.

That'll pretty much replace everything that's rubber.

If it's just a daily driven street car, replacing with new rubber components is the way to go. No maintenance required and they'll be quite comfortable. The new springs/shocks will do enough to increase the performance of the car.

We carry everything you, feel free to email or call if you have any questions!

in the front you forgot sway bar bushings and sway bar links... I guarantee you those will also need to be changed. While I was in the front I went ahead and rebuilt my steering rack, PS pump, replaced all 3 PS hoses and the resevoir. If you have the money and time, do that as well as it will proabably be going out soon. The convenience of buying a new CA is that the ball joint already come installed. However, if you have access to a hydraulic press, I found removing and installing new ones quite straight forward. The CA lists for 150 as oppsosed to the inner and outer BJ totals just under 70.

Also, let me know what prices you are coming up with for all those components and I should be able to beat them.

[LivingLegend06]

Why would you need to replace the control arms? Aren't those just metal?

they contain the ball joints, which wear and need to be replaced.

I keep playing with an order on Turner motorsports and it puts me at $1,257.75
I think ive got everything that I need for suspension except for sway bar related stuff and tie rod ends. I also have some other items that I need to order and id would like to make it all in one order. I cannot find tie rod ends, 13button OBC light bar, and a hood release cable on the turner site. Does anyone know of a trusted site where I can put all of this stuff into one order?

[dasvolk]

Why would you need to replace the control arms? Aren't those just metal?

[jlevie]

If all original, at 220k I'm going to be surprised if the car doesn't need new control arms, tie rod ends, trail arm bushings, subframe bushings and a few other things. A full refresh would include:

Shocks
Upper strut/shock mounts
Spring pads
Tie rod ends
Control arms & bushings
Rear trailing arm bushings
Subframe bushings
Sway links and bushings
Motor, transmission, and differential mounts

[Jand3rson]

Here's a short list of what we recommend
Front
Springs, shocks, control arm bushings (2), inner ball joint (2), outer ball joint(2), tie rod ends (2), strut mount/bearing.

Go OEM M3 offset for the control arm bushings.

[Mike@PureMS]

Here's a short list of what we recommend
Front
Springs, shocks, control arm bushings (2), inner ball joint (2), outer ball joint(2), tie rod ends (2), strut mount/bearing.

Rear
Subframe bushings(2), trailing arm bushings, springs, shocks.

That'll pretty much replace everything that's rubber.

If it's just a daily driven street car, replacing with new rubber components is the way to go. No maintenance required and they'll be quite comfortable. The new springs/shocks will do enough to increase the performance of the car.

We carry everything you, feel free to email or call if you have any questions!

[1991 318is]

What are you using the car for? If you're not tracking or AutoX-ing, you can go with Bilstein Touring shocks for about $230 a set and keep your stock springs or go with a slight lowering spring that is still fairly soft. Buy all new OEM rubber mounts and bushings and you'll have a better than new suspension that's still good for the street. You're right about the Bilsteins and H&R Sports. Figure over $1K and a "firm" ride that to some means "too stiff" for rough pavement. Anyway, start from what traits you want in the car.