Rear Subframe Reinforcement?

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  • matt
    replied
    Holy overkill batman!

    I don't think you'll have another problem.

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  • dark89e30
    replied
    That looks pretty nice. If you haven't put it in yet, drill four or five 3/8 to 1/2" holes spaced out in the middle of the double layer plates and fill them with weld. The double layering is great but it will be over twice as strong if it is welded at several places in the middle as well as the edges. And I'm not sure where the second pic is, but run a bead over that crack!

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  • Jean
    replied
    I've had 1 bolt come out on my pos 318! No damage to the subframe though lol.

    That looks overkill, good!

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  • Funkmasta
    replied
    pics:

    The welds didn't turn out as cleanly as I had hoped, but... They will do the trick.

    The metal across the entire mount is now over double the thickness, and is also welded to the frame through the access holes underneath.

    Attached Files

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  • Funkmasta
    replied
    Originally posted by iflytii
    Mine kept backing out on me until I finally doused them in loc-tite. Trashed 1 subframe in the process. Haven't had any issue since.
    You better believe that the new bolts will be drowned in loctite!!!

    pics to come

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  • iflytii
    replied
    Originally posted by Funkmasta
    Winnar. strange that it happened after 5k miles... oh well. Glad it didnt happen in Redding on the way to Bimmerfest. ;)
    Mine kept backing out on me until I finally doused them in loc-tite. Trashed 1 subframe in the process. Haven't had any issue since.

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  • Funkmasta
    replied
    BTW, my subframe reinforcement should be done in about an hour...

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  • Funkmasta
    replied
    Originally posted by iflytii
    Ditto. Looks like the bolts backed off and caused the problem.
    Winnar. strange that it happened after 5k miles... oh well. Glad it didnt happen in Redding on the way to Bimmerfest. ;)

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  • 86espowa
    replied
    i am building a nice, super super rear subframe.

    using the existing subframe as a template, i am going to cut a piece if steel, and weld it onto the top of the part of the subframe that is broken in your pics, and drill the same size holes as before.

    that should step up strength, and ensure it wont rip, regardless of how much power you have!

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  • iflytii
    replied
    Originally posted by E30 Groupie
    That looks more like it wasnt tightened down fully.
    Ditto. Looks like the bolts backed off and caused the problem.

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  • e304me
    replied
    first off get a new subframe. then buy some of that long steel plate at home depot or something. its like 1/8 x 1.5 inch x 3feet. then for the top cut a piece that will fit across to the two bolt holes. then cut holes for the bolts and if they are small enough you wont need a washer. I wouldnt think you would need to do anything for the bottom. and probably not even anything for the top if you use washers and loctite

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  • Funkmasta
    replied
    Originally posted by e304me
    yeah and washers werent used
    They were initially... All the rash attempts to re-secure the diff with the new bolts didnt work anyway.

    Curt, the two drivers side bolts were backed out, leaving the two passenger side bolts bent, and starting the tear on the upper portion.

    Not quite sure how it all happened @ 5k miles after the swap.

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  • e304me
    replied
    yeah and washers werent used

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  • Van Westervelt
    replied
    That looks more like it wasnt tightened down fully.

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  • backtrail69
    replied
    I hope I don't have those problems with my turbo car. That thing has got some balls..

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