What Brakes for E30 S50

[2002maniac]

The one who is an asshole and a dickhead here is you. If you'd take your head out of your deep ass then you'd realize that.

Again, I’m not trying to prove anything to your stupid ass. It’s pointless.

Shut the hell up then. You sound like an idiot.

[1990m3]

I use a 5-lug e30 m3 setup on my 318is/s50 car and it works quite well on the track. It's more than enough on the street as well and parts are cheap.

[bimerok]

Wow, you sound like such an asshole, I though that was what you were proving.

Good luck, dickhead.

Luke

The one who is an asshole and a dickhead here is you. If you'd take your head out of your deep ass then you'd realize that.

Again, I’m not trying to prove anything to your stupid ass. It’s pointless.

[asubimmer]

lol this is ridiculous. All this talk about "brake fade"...

Brake fade is when the pedal becomes STIFFER and stopping power is lowered. The sponge feel is NOT brake fade, its fluid fade. Its your brake fluid boiling and causing air bubbles.

"Pad fade occurs for several reasons. All friction material (brake pad stuff) has a coefficient of friction curve over temperature. Friction materials have an optimal working temperature where the coefficient of friction is the highest. Sometimes you can use the brakes so hard that you get the temperature over the point of maximum friction to where the coefficient of friction curve starts to decline.

The mechanics of this decline in the coefficient of friction are varied. At a certain temperature, certain elements of the pad can melt or smear causing a lubrication effect, this is the classic glazed pad. Usually the organic binder resin starts to go first, then even the metallic elements of the friction material can start to melt. At really high temperatures the friction material starts to vaporize and the pad can sort of hydroplane on a boundary layer of vaporized metal and friction material which acts like a lubricant. Pad fade is felt as a car that still has a decent, non mushy feeling brake pedal that won’t stop even if you are pushing as hard as you can. Usually it builds somewhat slowly giving you time to compensate for it ,but some friction materials have a sudden drop off of friction when the heat is put on them resulting in sudden dangerous fade."

[Massive Lee]

Wasn't Panda_Disco's question very simple?
"My question is, what brakes would you guys recommend to handle the power of the S50?"

Let's return to the topic and hug each other.

[Teaguer]

Wow, you sound like such an asshole, I though that was what you were proving.
Good luck, dickhead.
Luke

/stumble /fart :p

[e30polak]

i have an s52 w/ chip, injectors, hfm and full exhaust, for brakes i use brembo blanks, and hawk hps pads and ate super blue...work fine for street and the canyons in malibu...minor brake fade after a few runs down stunt :x
about to fab up some brackets with my dad for the rx-7 4pot calipers i got w/ some nice corrado rotors...very cheap big brake kit...no need to buy any after market one :pimp:

[StereoInstaller1]

I have absolutely nothing to prove here.

Wow, you sound like such an asshole, I though that was what you were proving.

Good luck, dickhead.

Luke

[bimerok]

1010 - I never told you to stop talking, so it is up to you whether you want to continue or not. I really don’t care.

StereoInstaller1 / Luke – What’s cheesy rice: is you. At least try not to stumble and fart into the puddle when you try to type, what you think is your “genius” “punch line”


I have tried both and I stated my opinion based on my experience. Whatever anyone else is thinking about it does not concern me. I have absolutely nothing to prove here.

[Miasma]

Photo shows e36-e46 rotors.

That is the only pic of the kit on that site, Regardless of what car they go on. Im talking about the E30 kit, Stock E30 rotor's coated and slotted the same way. with the same pad's and SS line's. I know what my rotor's look like. Ill be super specific next time.

[Massive Lee]

Photo shows e36-e46 rotors.

[Miasma]

While we are on the subject, I was thinking of going with this kit from UUC minus the fluid as I have blue ATE already.
For a spirited street/occasional hard track car(I live near some awesome lakeside Nur Ring esque road's).
My rotor's and pad's are shite, I'm also gonna rebuild my caliper's at the same time.
I have already gone to the larger M/C as well. Any thought's?
Thank's in advance.

[10/10ths]

Dude,

There is no point to argue your absurd anymore.

You should’ve been a lead engineer for top manufacturers as they have no clue what they are doing.

Is it ok for me to talk again?

I dont want to look absurd or anything.

[StereoInstaller1]

Dude,

There is no point to argue your absurd anymore.

You should’ve been a lead engineer for top manufacturers as they have no clue what they are doing.

Apparently you are the clueless one.

The main job of an engineer is to make a car that SELLS.

If it does not SELL, no one has a JOB.

Thus, "Engineer" = "Sales Whore's Bitch", in the major leagues.

Slotted/drilled/fanboi crap sells, even to rich 50 year olds having a midlife crisis.

SO if the post explaining to you exactly what the leading thinking is these days, well, just quit while you are ahead.

Drilled is cheesy rice, unnerstand?

I was disappointed too.

Luke

[WillisE30]

I was about to say, I have drilled Zimmermans on my car, stock e30 brakes, and they work great. I purchased the drilled rotors STRICTLY for the look. They really don't offer any benefit over regular rotors as many others have said.

Also I was really concerned about my brakes prior to completing my own swap, however, now that I'm finished I don't think I'll bother doing any kind of extreme brake swaps. Looking at how well spec E30s perform with basically stock stuff helped me make that decision. Plus 99% of hard drivers on the street don't drive that hard, they just THINK that they do.