Ultimate "while your in there" suspension guide

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  • Ant_e30
    replied
    dont freak out about camber, it isnt that bad to your tyres. Toe is the killer, get it aligned ASAP

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  • 801coppertop
    replied
    Getting close! Trying to figure out which vendors to use for what parts. But i did decide to go with the HR OE springs, they only lower by about one inch. If i drop it by that much will the 12mm offset subframe bushing correct the camber enough or do i still need to do the weld in plates. Also what about front camber in this situation should i spring for the camber plates? are they needed i want the tires to wear evenly. But the costs add up quick. What would you do?

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  • e30time
    replied
    Coppertop- I am glad you posted this, as I am in need of a full overhaul of suspension (well, everything really...)

    Tony= That bluntech link was interesting, and seems like a good deal. They have some other interesting items, 24v turbo header :D I am looking at doing the IR swaybars, and Treehouse Racing "Eyeball arms", which will include some of those items though.

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  • 801coppertop
    replied
    If i do billie sports with hr sports it will lower the car about 1.5 inches. Do i need to get the adjustable subframe plates? i dont want to be going through tires like crazy and i want to keep a stock geometry. I just cant stand the wheel gap on the front wheels the rear aren't really that bad...

    Thanks for all the info, lets keep it coming

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  • tonywonder
    replied
    i can send you a parts list if you really need it i have ordered just about all of that stuff sans the sways for my rebuild. ill be getting the sways just havent ordered those yet. if you are going low you could also get the weld on adjustable plates for the rear subframe.

    i ordered powerflex bushings. lemforder control arms and tierods. treehouse cabs and a bunch of other crap. you can get m3offset cabs from powerflex.

    i did a lot of research and im still doing some. i think it just depends on how serious you wanna get with your suspension. if you are just going to do the shocks and springs get all the bushings and replace your control arms and tierods.

    blunttech.com has a combo pack with all that stuff.

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  • 801coppertop
    replied
    Originally posted by Holland
    Poly isn't a necessity unless you are running a track or hardcore DD. If you are going to do the front control arm bushings, then why not go with the M3 ones, it's a nice little upgrade for all the work. Control arms themselves are another one to spring for if you can. Ball joints probably aren't in the best of shape. If you are doing lower and stiffer suspension then I would also do rear shock mounts. The stock ones, even new don't take well to stiff suspension.
    Good info! So what exactly are the advantages to m3 offset bushings.

    All this information is great! Also don't know if it changes anything, but in my case I am going to be putting in HR sports and billies as well.

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  • Holland
    replied
    Poly isn't a necessity unless you are running a track or hardcore DD. If you are going to do the front control arm bushings, then why not go with the M3 ones, it's a nice little upgrade for all the work. Control arms themselves are another one to spring for if you can. Ball joints probably aren't in the best of shape. If you are doing lower and stiffer suspension then I would also do rear shock mounts. The stock ones, even new don't take well to stiff suspension.

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  • I*Do*Werke
    replied
    edited my post. thanks for reminding me!

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  • BoxDriver86
    replied
    Originally posted by I*Do*Werke
    FRONT: front control arm bushings, control arms, tie rods, upper strut mounts, and all the bolts and nuts.

    REAR: Trailing arm bushings, subframe bushings, diff bushings, rear shock mounts, and all the bolts and nuts.

    The bolts and nuts are not necessarily needed but it is good practice and they are the cheapest part. Powerflex has always made good bushings but many others make good polyurethane bushings. I would suggest getting the stock style bushings, M3 offset are not really worth the extra price for a street car
    Don't forget sway bar bushings, end links, etc. Makes a huge difference for little money and doesn't take much time.

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  • 801coppertop
    replied
    bump

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  • I*Do*Werke
    replied
    FRONT: front control arm bushings, control arms, tie rods, sway bar end links, sway bar and bushings, upper strut mounts, and all the bolts and nuts.

    REAR: Trailing arm bushings, subframe bushings, diff bushings, sway bar and bushings, rear shock mounts, and all the bolts and nuts.

    The bolts and nuts are not necessarily needed but it is good practice and they are the cheapest part. Powerflex has always made good bushings but many others make good polyurethane bushings. I would suggest getting the stock style bushings, M3 offset are not really worth the extra price for a street car
    Last edited by I*Do*Werke; 04-24-2011, 08:39 AM.

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  • Ultimate "while your in there" suspension guide

    I am planning on replacing my shocks and springs on my 325i. I also need to do all the bushings. I was wondering if there was anything else i should so while im in there. Also i would like to know which bushings i should go with (powerflex, m3 offset, etc) I haven't been able to find an all out guide to this, so it would be cool if we could get together a giant parts list.
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