Drift Setup Questions

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  • jpichu
    replied
    Well firts thing is Welding the rear end to get sideways thats how i started after i did M50 Swap NV, Cosmos Coilovers with 600/800 springs , Bilstein Shocks. Cosmo Camber Plates, E36 Rack, Weld Diff,New update wheel XXR 006 front 17x8 and rear 17x9 25mm Adaptors all around and Waiting for E46 lower Control Arms for better clearance on front Wheels

    here is a little Video


    BTW drifting in 2nd and 3rd gear

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  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    Originally posted by !kid
    I run 550 lbs/in springs in front and 600 in the rear. When doing my own research this was roughly the most common spring rates used on both drift and track day e30's. Do not use super high spring rates in the rear to tune oversteer, that's the job of the sway bar. I am using IE coilover sleeves in front and will be using there new rear spring adjusters. Billy sports would be good for the spring rates I posted. Or you can get the turner Motorsports j-stock revalved and shortened Billy sports. If you want to run high spring rates in the 800 range.
    So for a ST 22mm front sway & 19mm rear sway, about how heavy of a front/rear spring rate slides well? 500/700?

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  • !kid
    replied
    I run 550 lbs/in springs in front and 600 in the rear. When doing my own research this was roughly the most common spring rates used on both drift and track day e30's. Do not use super high spring rates in the rear to tune oversteer, that's the job of the sway bar. I am using IE coilover sleeves in front and will be using there new rear spring adjusters. Billy sports would be good for the spring rates I posted. Or you can get the turner Motorsports j-stock revalved and shortened Billy sports. If you want to run high spring rates in the 800 range.

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  • Texas Toast
    replied
    That's one of the things I love about e30s and drifting. Your almost always going to find one with a lsd in it.

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  • Hachi
    replied
    Diff

    Well I hated my welded, It was to unpredictable. I spent a year sliding w/welded diff and was getting so frustrated I bought a ae86 shell, then decided to try a rebuilt LSD. Needless to say it was a night and day difference and I sold the 86 shell and have been loving my e30 ever since.

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  • Jaxx_
    replied
    Originally posted by Texas Toast
    Meh to each his own.

    How is it drifting on a welded diff? I test drove a 240 with one for a friend and couldn't get over the chirping going through normal turns.
    it slides easier, but at the same time it's unforgiving... I'd say a 2-way with more lockup is easier to control in my book. it's just more consistent.

    welded diffs are good for two things:
    -straight lines
    -drifting

    and it doesn't even do those fantastically.

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  • russhixmo
    replied
    Racing dynamics strut bars and away bars, did a set on both my e28's and there's a huge difference in stiffness

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  • drummerchubbs
    replied
    I just got a 3.73 LSD. I will be installing the coilovers next week and hopefully going out to a skid pad to learn the characteristics of the car.

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  • Texas Toast
    replied
    Originally posted by Jaxx_
    On my list I think strut tower rigidity is just above stripping out the interior.


    @OP: what diff do you have? is it welded or at least a clutch pack LSD?
    Meh to each his own.

    How is it drifting on a welded diff? I test drove a 240 with one for a friend and couldn't get over the chirping going through normal turns.

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  • Jaxx_
    replied
    Originally posted by Texas Toast
    ...what?
    On my list I think strut tower rigidity is just above stripping out the interior.


    @OP: what diff do you have? is it welded or at least a clutch pack LSD?

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  • Texas Toast
    replied
    Originally posted by Jaxx_
    uh...

    ...what?

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  • Jaxx_
    replied
    Originally posted by Texas Toast
    Look into a front and rear strut bar. They stiffen it up like a boss.

    I'm running a sparco front and no-name in the rear.

    I have no complaints so far with my countless street drifts and one full event.
    uh...
    Originally posted by bmwguy325is
    OK you need to make the rear as stiff as you can. So 1000lb springs can help. Solid bushings will help too
    this, to a certain extent. You want the rear to be able to step out but you don't want it to snap, unless you absolutely love that.

    I suggest that if you're looking for a setup before you know how to drift (or what setups will change what characteristics) i suggest you drift it stock, and then make the modifications. You won't learn as quick about setup or proper technique as compared to if you just went out and did it, then make adjustments.


    I think my car would slide a bit better now that it has a rear sway, here's me after getting suspension, and my first event driving with it. The car understeered a lot, as is the nature of the car, even with H&R race. Once the rear sway was added the car is much more neutral, with just a slight amount of oversteer in the high speed sections of autox(added a spoiler to fix this). Also, you might want to run a significant amount of toe out, I run about 2 degrees, it turns in very crisply.

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  • drummerchubbs
    replied
    Thank you!

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  • Hachi
    replied
    Thanks

    Well honestlly id be here all day talking about everything ive tried on this car.
    But to give it a quick brake down. besides what i listed about suspension. Motor is M20 wasted spark on 14 psi, MS2,tuned 295hp 300 tq. Full cage. OMP seat. Pulled fenders. Now I have the wisefab uber angle kit (write up was posted up a page or so ago) so i had to take off my front fenders not sure what to do now. RX7 front calipers, oem rear with wilwood extra caliper kit for e-brake. alot of other little crap. My wheels are the XXR 527 i think Hell i dont remember, i do know they are 17 by 9.75 (which is freggin stupid why they didn't just go to 10'') +25 offset and im running 25mm spacers all around. Hope that helps.

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  • drummerchubbs
    replied
    Nice video! I would love to know whats under the hood :)

    What are the specs on your wheels?

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