How to Modify front JOM coilovers to go lower?

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  • RawToast
    replied
    Originally posted by SmokeE30
    hes saying if you gonna buy shorter shocks and chop you housings with joms it would be like the same to do it with gc. the gc kit is about the same price of joms but doesnt include shocks but if you gonna do shorter struts on joms why not get the better springrates available with gc setup?
    I've already got JOM's on my car - knock on wood they've been great to me. I just want them a bit lower, especially when I go to bigger wheels.

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  • SmokeE30
    replied
    hes saying if you gonna buy shorter shocks and chop you housings with joms it would be like the same to do it with gc. the gc kit is about the same price of joms but doesnt include shocks but if you gonna do shorter struts on joms why not get the better springrates available with gc setup?

    Leave a comment:


  • S13_E30
    replied
    Originally posted by acolella76
    Maybe it's just me... but I don't see the point in buying JOMs just to buy shortened shocks and housings? Seems you could just buy the shortened shocks and GC coil over conversion for.. the same price?

    for around 500?! where?

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  • RawToast
    replied
    Originally posted by acolella76
    you know the fronts go low as FUCK right? When installed correctly the oil pan will hit the ground before the adjusters are all the way down. Not sure why anyone would need to go lower...

    The back sucks. I don't run adjusters or pads and it's about 1/2-3/4" above the tire. Going to buy new springs for the rear anyways since the rates suck
    Not true...

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  • E30_fiend
    replied
    Originally posted by E30ruben
    How on this mother planet can you raise the engine up? Spacers on motor mounts? LOL
    e36 m3 motor mounts. You CAN successfully raise the motor up using those mounts but the way I see it, you're solving one problem but creating a whole other monster to deal with. When you raise your motor up, your driveshaft angle changes which will no doubt cause your guibo, center bearing and u-joints to rapidly fail which results in more damage and money spent than busting an oil pan.

    If you want more pan clearance, go m10 or m30. thats the only real way you wont cause any unwanted problems with more pan clearance.


    Taylor

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  • CW325
    replied
    Jom front springs also work with drop hats

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  • E30ruben
    replied
    Originally posted by CHIF8008
    ^ easy fix to the oil pan problem, just raise your motor till the pan sits level or higher than the sub-frame. then- install a skid plate that not only protects the oil pan, but also the steering rack, sub frame & the sway bar from ever getting caught on something.

    all of this and you can achieve this:


    NOTE: this is with 195/60 R14 size tire. so with the proper wheel setup you can be even lower. IM the guy that did the "method B" for modifying the JOM's
    How on this mother planet can you raise the engine up? Spacers on motor mounts? LOL

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  • bigredguy
    replied
    yeah, most of you guys either dont have JOMs or have problems if your laying your oilpan on the ground with just JOM coilovers. I have mine spun all the way down and have atleast 3 inches from my oil pan, on stock bottlecaps with the right size tires. I also have a 4 or 4.5 inch spring for the back and with the adjuster all the way down its even. I believe its a 60mm or 2.5 ID spring(there basically interchangeable)

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  • E30_fiend
    replied
    Originally posted by acolella76
    Maybe it's just me... but I don't see the point in buying JOMs just to buy shortened shocks and housings? Seems you could just buy the shortened shocks and GC coil over conversion for.. the same price?
    Exactly my thoughts man. Why buy shit that will 100% FOR SURE blow in a given amount of time when you can section your housings and run short bodies. Not only will you be able to dump the car on its nuts, you will also have LOADS of travel.

    My bilstein sport fully compressed was about 1/2" shorter than a fully EXTENDED short body. Which of course means like 90% of the shock travel can be utilized with the shorter strut insert rather than like 10% of the stock length strut.

    In short, do the right thing and section your housings instead of wasting your money on a setup that WILL fail. Support a forum vendor and buy the GC setup. You cant go wrong.


    Taylor

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  • acolella76
    replied
    Maybe it's just me... but I don't see the point in buying JOMs just to buy shortened shocks and housings? Seems you could just buy the shortened shocks and GC coil over conversion for.. the same price?

    Leave a comment:


  • ak-
    replied
    Your pan will never touch the ground with JOM's or any other coilover unless you section out the housings like Taylor mentioned lol.
    Sounds more like worn out motor mounts and other suspension bits.

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  • E30_fiend
    replied
    Also, I have 5" springs in the rear with thick poly spring pads top and bottom and I have credit card clearance. I realize I have late model arches but with JUST a spring I can tuck wheel no problem.


    Taylor

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  • E30_fiend
    replied
    First: GC some sell you the perches separately unless you've purchased an entire kit from them before. I know. Stupid.

    Second: there Is no reason to go lower than the stock perch weld. That kit is already known for blowing struts quickly and you want to go lower?? At some point you need to do things correctly to achieve the desired result as well as a setup that will hold up for a long time.

    Go with shortened housings and short body shocks. There is absolutely no reason to go lower than what shortened housings will allow for. If I lower my adjusters all the way down, I will set the motor on the ground before the suspension even settles.

    Also, with the car that low I hope no one plans on doing anything but driving in a straight line because turning your wheels will be almost impossible


    Taylor

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  • einstein57
    replied
    Measure the JOM adjusters and i'll get you the springs you need.

    Here is a car with 4" springs



    And here is another on the lowest setting with undersized tires.

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  • bigredguy
    replied
    Originally posted by Npulver
    Its easy, cut off your lower spring perch, from there you have two options, either

    A) cut it all the way down smooth with the strut tube, then weld a circle at the desired height (essentially a new perch for your adjuster) and rock it. or...

    B) Simply trim the lower perch down to just the weld, and use it as your perch, guessing it'll gain you about 1/2 to 1 inch extra play.

    This guy did method B.




    Ground control actually makes a weld on perch, if you feel the need to have something more stable than a weld holding your spring up. Its my recommendation to get the perch from GC for safety reasons.
    Do either of these methods require a new shock? Also how much are the weld on perches from GC?

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