DIY Bent Wheel Repair ?

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  • jeffSDguy
    replied
    Heat or flame, wood, and hammer should do the job. a metal heated will bend. unless if you use lava then it will evaporate. LOLOL

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  • Simon S
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
    Zen? What the heck you smokin'? Gonna share?
    Well - it must be some good shit if I'm contemplating full-DIY refurbish on a set of gnarly-ass weaves..

    Originally posted by ZekeTheSneak
    Google map, Wheel repair in your area.
    Believe me - I have. Basically, it's like:
    $560 + transport trips across Chicago to have a shop repair/refinish them
    OR
    $60 in paint + 20 hours(?) of my time

    I’m unemployed. Guess which route I’m leaning toward?

    If it's one thing I've learned about working on this car - is that the hardest roads are often the most satisfying when done..

    But we'll see - I need to check for bad wobble before I do anything.

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  • ZekeTheSneak
    replied
    Google map, Wheel repair in your area.

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Zen? What the heck you smokin'? Gonna share?

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  • Simon S
    replied
    Oh – I will. All part of my Zen journey madness..

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    I like the look of a nice set of weaves...but I will never ever own a set.

    GL, and post some pics as you fix those up.

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  • Simon S
    replied
    Cool. Thanks guys. Very helpful information.
    Yeah - I have a high concern regarding use of heat. Liking the idea of a heat gun over a torch. I've been wanting to get a heat gun in my tool collection anyway..


    1 - Spin and check for signs of wobble. Mark trouble areas.

    if wobble is negligible and bends are localized to lip areas -

    2 - Warm areas with heat gun and reshape as possible.

    3 - Spin to double-check things out. Reshape as needed.

    4 - Strip any areas with curb rash and fill as appropriate with JB weld.

    5 - Straighten caps as appropriate for tighter installation (1-2 of caps I have fit ‘loose’)

    6 - Clean/scuff/prep wheels and caps for uniform finish and paint adhesion

    7 - Paint wheels and caps with wheel paint (Wurth or Duplicolor)

    8 - Install new roundel emblems to caps

    9 - Mount/balance tires on wheels with stick-on weights or lip weights on inside lip.

    10 - Avoid drifting into curbs at all costs.


    Oh god – I think I am going to be hating life while spending hours cleaning and scuffing out all that weave surface area on all four of those f’kers.

    P.S. George – you funny.

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  • frankenbeemer
    replied
    I also found this on the BBS site:http://www.bbsalloywheels.co.uk/manu...roduction.aspx

    Heat Treatment:
    The heat treatment phase, which lasts several hours, is in place to make sure that the material properties of the future wheel are exactly how they should be. The three-phase heat treating of the casting blank helps to improve the firmness of the aluminium alloy. Step one: solution annealing which takes place following the alloying stage in accordance with DIN 1706 and at temperatures of between 480 and 550 degrees Celsius. The temperature is selected so that a large enough amount of alloying elements are dissolved into the mixed crystals to increase the strength of the alloy. Step two: quenching. During the quenching phase, the casting is cooled down as quickly as possible to around 70 degrees Celsius so that it is ready for the next stage. Stage three: warm ageing. Warm ageing is in place to ensure that the material obtains the right strength. The process requires absolute precision. If, for example, the solution annealing is conducted at a temperature in excess of 550 degrees Celsius, the casting can no longer be used and has to be melted down.

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  • frankenbeemer
    replied
    ASM Handbook Volume 2, Properties and Selection: Nonferrous Alloys and Special-Purpose Materials has the following information:

    356-T6: aging at 305 to 315 °F for 2 to 5 hours
    Yield stress = 185 MPa
    Ultimate stress = 262 MPa
    Fracture strain = 0.05

    356-T7: aging at 435 to 445 °F for 7 to 9 hours
    Yield stress = 165 MPa
    Ultimate stress = 220 MPa
    Fracture strain = 0.06

    Don't heat the wheel over 300 degrees and you should be fine.

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  • 8380 Labs
    replied
    i've been told by knowledgeable people that heating an aluminum wheel up with a torch will change the properties of the metal and anneal it in a way that could be detrimental.

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  • der affe
    replied
    Originally posted by george graves
    I'd spin it.

    Thanks George, that made my morning.

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  • BoxDriver86
    replied
    Method I used on a bent bottlecap. I just wanted to see if it works and it did.
    Firstly, this is NOT a dig at anyone,,,, if you have a imperfection, ie; flat spot. that you want to repair. . you will need; 1: a bottle jack. 2: heat gun. 3:

    Other options:
    BFH - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAsYm...eature=related
    How the pros do it in case you find a way to replicate - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNa5RmO-UDs

    Best of luck saving those!

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  • Simon S
    replied
    Thanks guys.
    I guess my first step is to spin them and check for warp/wobble.
    Should be able to mount them as pictured - and set up a guage to check them out.
    If i'm lucky - and bends are localized to lip areas - then I'll go for it.

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  • george graves
    replied
    I'd spin it.

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  • BrettsE30
    replied
    Spin it first to make sure the whole wheels not outta whack. I just smacked the crap outta my bottle caps to make em straight but all my bends were on the inner lip.

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