Eew, that remote looks like it belongs on a Honda. :(
Matt
Here it is: SAFE Remote Start for MANUAL!
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all depends on how strong your E-brake is, my 86, no the starter would not over power, the 84 yes it could.
in short, if your E-brake is adjusted properly it could not.Leave a comment:
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Ok, my question is - "Can the starter over power the parking brake?" I, along with pretty much everyone I know, parks their car in gear. I could see it being left in gear by accident pretty easily.Leave a comment:
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Darius, yeah, I think in operation it is about as good as you are gonna get, considering the limitations of installers and customers: the thing is pretty seamless really. I mean you get where you are going, yank the ebrake and drop the foot brake if on a hill...open the door, get out and walk away. Pretty simple in all reality...and if the car shuts off immediately, you know the brake pedal was on too long.Hi Luke,
I might be interested in one of these 2-way transmitter set-ups (that's the one with the screen right?), I have the money right now to pay you, but I'm a bit confused. No offense but it doesn't seem like everything was thought through, like with the brake pedal/e-brake thing. So if I'm parked in a hill, I need to balance the pedal and e-brake as if I was shifting gears with the clutch/gas?
Also, I've never wired anything before, but I really want to learn, and I plan on doing a sound system and e36 window switch swap at the same time. Is this remote start feature far beyond my capabilities? Or if I took my sweet time and followed instructions would I be able to tackle it? I would most definitely need your tech support, I'm a total wiring noob but my dad is an electrical engineer so I'm sure I have all the tools to get it done somewhere haha, you seem like you're willing to stand behind your product all the way and I appreciate that.
If you don't mind can you give me as many details as you can? I want to know all the ways that I could possibly set off the remote-start the wrong way because I have bad luck sometimes.
I also have a couple more questions. What is the e-brake circuit? Is that when you pull up the e-brake, there should be a light on the dash indicating that? I don't think mine works... how would I go about fixing it? If I want it I'll send you payment asap, today or tomorrow.
I must say your prices are very reasonable as well. How sensitive is this alarm? Is there any way I could increase the sensitivity by adding more sensors, or would that just get complicated? How would it work if I wanted to add the trunk pop feature, does this setup already come with it or would I need to buy a separate module? Would I be able to add up a backup battery/siren in the future like the one viper sells or something?
Thanks,
Darius
No, it isn't perfect, but it is light years ahead of anything else!
Now, about that "trunk pop"...oh boy, I SO miss that feature! I hacked my supposedly "un poppable" 1977 Chevy Nova and was able to make it pop, but having spent zillions of hours trying to figure a way to make the E30 trunk latch pop I gave up...like 5 years ago. I have thought about hacking in the GM "pull down" system (like an old F Body) or even just swapping to a basic latch/solenoid...but now I am on a different groove: I wanna motorize my trunk lid.
Think of how bad ass that would be: opening and closing via remote!
I want to remove the latch altogether. I think the motorized headlight system will work (F body again!) to open and close the lid. I am still searching for a solenoid that will pop the hood, too. Tried the classic Honda starter solenoid, would have done great if I could get it to make torque for the first 5mm of "throw", but it has none.
Yeah, I have been fiddling with all of this crap for quite some time!
Riaz, guys, ain't gonna happen. E46 nor flip key is able to interface with this system: different coding is one thing, but a whole different type of signal frequency is another.
Sorry!
I knew that would make sense sooner or later.
Wish I could have done that damn vid: my camera would have done great.
I am gonna order a couple of systems today. Anyone who wants to play guinea pig right now can get $25 off their order if I receive a $100 deposit to my PayPal before noon tomorrow, 3/23/10.
Keep in mind I have to order, wait for them to ship to me, build, test, program and then ship to you WHILE I write the install guide and take pics and stuff...so if you want that discount, it is still gonna be a couple of weeks at best until you have this product in your hands.
Oh yeah: quick disclaimer: I expect you guys to keep the information I am going to give you pretty much confidential. You know it is my intellectual property, but you also know how much I share stuff in general.
I am an open book kind of guy, but basically don't fuck me over and all and I is good.
-like someone is gonna make millions off this shit anyway, right?
Also, if you die or get hurt or you have any kind of damage, you are (duh) on your own. No liability for me, baby! You are dealing with sensitive electrical and electronic components directly related to the running of your car. Things can easily be damaged or cause damage to happen, so just to be clear: I accept NO LIABILITY for whatever this system may or may not do.
Oh just a FYI: if anyone were to cut the small loop of wire that jumpers between L1 and L2 on the main circuit board, this alarm would then become dangerous, allowing the vehicle to start without use of the parking brake circuit.
If anyone should attempt this very dangerous procedure and possibly even reprogram the system to operate as if the vehicle were equipped with an automatic transmission this system would be very dangerous to operate, possibly illegal.
Just so we are clear. DO NOT cut that loop. The car could then start in gear: VERY dangerous.
LukeLeave a comment:
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Hey guys, been busy with out of town guests.
I will do some writing and answer PMs in the AM!Leave a comment:
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Hi Luke,
I might be interested in one of these 2-way transmitter set-ups (that's the one with the screen right?), I have the money right now to pay you, but I'm a bit confused. No offense but it doesn't seem like everything was thought through, like with the brake pedal/e-brake thing. So if I'm parked in a hill, I need to balance the pedal and e-brake as if I was shifting gears with the clutch/gas?
Also, I've never wired anything before, but I really want to learn, and I plan on doing a sound system and e36 window switch swap at the same time. Is this remote start feature far beyond my capabilities? Or if I took my sweet time and followed instructions would I be able to tackle it? I would most definitely need your tech support, I'm a total wiring noob but my dad is an electrical engineer so I'm sure I have all the tools to get it done somewhere haha, you seem like you're willing to stand behind your product all the way and I appreciate that.
If you don't mind can you give me as many details as you can? I want to know all the ways that I could possibly set off the remote-start the wrong way because I have bad luck sometimes.
I also have a couple more questions. What is the e-brake circuit? Is that when you pull up the e-brake, there should be a light on the dash indicating that? I don't think mine works... how would I go about fixing it? If I want it I'll send you payment asap, today or tomorrow.
I must say your prices are very reasonable as well. How sensitive is this alarm? Is there any way I could increase the sensitivity by adding more sensors, or would that just get complicated? How would it work if I wanted to add the trunk pop feature, does this setup already come with it or would I need to buy a separate module? Would I be able to add up a backup battery/siren in the future like the one viper sells or something?
Thanks,
DariusLast edited by dnova89; 03-21-2010, 10:45 AM.Leave a comment:
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Definitely interested in something simple (as mentioned in my email to you a little while back), using the e46 key fob unit thingies.
Let me know when testing is completed, and I'll go with one of the basic kits with the remote start :)
RiazLeave a comment:
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Ooooh, so even turning the ignition off with the key doesn't turn it off? I get it now!! :DThat is what I have now. I am changing to safety start just because I can.
Even if you do hit the start, if you can see the car, you can shut it down immediately with the remote.
Matt, it just stays running, that's all. You pull the key, it stays running, you open the door, it stays running, you close the door and it shuts off.
that really is the whole story!
MattLeave a comment:
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how much for remote start without any of this ebrake leave the car running shenanigans?Leave a comment:
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That is what I have now. I am changing to safety start just because I can.
Even if you do hit the start, if you can see the car, you can shut it down immediately with the remote.
Matt, it just stays running, that's all. You pull the key, it stays running, you open the door, it stays running, you close the door and it shuts off.
that really is the whole story!Leave a comment:
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is there a way to do this without the need for the motor to stay running until i get out? this is cool, but i dont need those shenanigans and i'm smart enough to not hit the remote start when i left the car in gear.Leave a comment:
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Sadly, still no, LOL.
So basically the kit taps into hot 12v, 12v accessory and the start circuit. That much I get, as that's a given. But if I'm understanding this right (and it wouldn't surprise me if I'm not ;)), if you turn the ignition off, it disarms the remote start. And the only way to keep the remote start armed is to pull on the ebrake without touching the brake pedal...and then letting the car turn itself off.
The part that gets me is it sounds like you have to leave the keys in the ignition and the ignition set to "run" just to arm the system. So then your keys are locked in the car...
I'm obviously not understanding it, lol, but I just can't wrap my head around it.
Yeah, that's why I never bothered to buy those modules (Autoloc! had to look it up, but that's the name) because the description makes it sound like what you're talking about. Kinda like my sister's acura, if you lightly push on it you get a click and it works manually. If you push harder there's a second click and it goes all the way up/down. That's what I want.IMO, "real" 1T windows are like E36 or later: first click should manually control the window, and the second click should go all the way up/down.
All of the other controllers that offer 1T modules have a quick tap to roll up or down, or press and hold to manually raise/lower. I don't like that for some retarded reason. I had that in a couple of cars over the years, seems I was always fighting them.
MattLeave a comment:

Leave a comment: