2k brick wall

[Shangsta]

I was hoping to see the same thing :(

Anyways, to the OP - My '87 vert just did about the same thing and it ended up being the rubber gasket ring that seals off the in tank low pressure fuel pump and fuel level sender unit.

Check all of your fuel lines, FPR's, fuel pump, etc. Remember there is also a FPR under the hood along with your feed line and return line. There a vac line that gets hooked in to that and it may need to be changed. (I think this is correct on a late model car, but mine is early model so I can't say for sure)

Also make sure you check that rubber ring that seals off the in tank fuel pump and sender unit!

I'm not saying that it couldn't be the CPS.. but the fuel system is a little easier to troubleshoot than them. Start with fuel.


In the days before I changed out my rubber ring and in tank low pressure fuel pump with a TRE340 (bypassing the external fuel pump) I was having fuel cutouts at completely random times. I could be on the highway doing 65 and go to speed up from the speed I was already maintaining by foot, even just slowly without mashing the gas, and my fuel delivery would suddenly cut out making it feel like I had hit a brick wall.. the front end would practically take a dive after I sped up for a split second and then hit that brick wall.

It didn't matter whether I hit the gas slowly or floored it, either way would lead to brick wall syndrome.. lol. The only cure was to get off the gas until I was giving it less gas than needed to maintain my slowing speed. At that point I couldn't speed up any further. I could only go slower or push the clutch in and rev the engine to whatever I wanted. Anyway you put it, the car couldn't hold it's speed under load from that point.

Usually, pulling the car over to the side of the road and letting it sit for a minute, then starting back up was enough to get me moving until I got it to my garage. I was also able to successfully turn off the engine while I was rolling on the highway, let the tach do its final twitch as the power left the ECM, then restart the engine and I would suddenly have power again.

I believe it was just because of the lack of vacuum in my system.

Hope you figure it out.

Thanks for all the replies everyone. Im going through the fuel system piece by peice and Ill let you know what i discover

[element6]

Is it bad that I was hoping this thread would be about someone R3V-ing a car worth $2k into a brick wall?

I was hoping to see the same thing :(

Anyways, to the OP - My '87 vert just did about the same thing and it ended up being the rubber gasket ring that seals off the in tank low pressure fuel pump and fuel level sender unit.

Check all of your fuel lines, FPR's, fuel pump, etc. Remember there is also a FPR under the hood along with your feed line and return line. There a vac line that gets hooked in to that and it may need to be changed. (I think this is correct on a late model car, but mine is early model so I can't say for sure)

Also make sure you check that rubber ring that seals off the in tank fuel pump and sender unit!

I'm not saying that it couldn't be the CPS.. but the fuel system is a little easier to troubleshoot than them. Start with fuel.


In the days before I changed out my rubber ring and in tank low pressure fuel pump with a TRE340 (bypassing the external fuel pump) I was having fuel cutouts at completely random times. I could be on the highway doing 65 and go to speed up from the speed I was already maintaining by foot, even just slowly without mashing the gas, and my fuel delivery would suddenly cut out making it feel like I had hit a brick wall.. the front end would practically take a dive after I sped up for a split second and then hit that brick wall.

It didn't matter whether I hit the gas slowly or floored it, either way would lead to brick wall syndrome.. lol. The only cure was to get off the gas until I was giving it less gas than needed to maintain my slowing speed. At that point I couldn't speed up any further. I could only go slower or push the clutch in and rev the engine to whatever I wanted. Anyway you put it, the car couldn't hold it's speed under load from that point.

Usually, pulling the car over to the side of the road and letting it sit for a minute, then starting back up was enough to get me moving until I got it to my garage. I was also able to successfully turn off the engine while I was rolling on the highway, let the tach do its final twitch as the power left the ECM, then restart the engine and I would suddenly have power again.

I believe it was just because of the lack of vacuum in my system.

Hope you figure it out.

[mamzak]

Is it bad that I was hoping this thread would be about someone R3V-ing a car worth $2k into a brick wall?

[Vtec?lol]

A friend had this issue and it turned out to be the fuel filter.

He changed that.


OP- pop off your rear seat and check the connection at the fuel pump. The connection corrodes and starts cutting power to th pump and will usually result in a fried relay. This is exactly what happened to mine and shortly after I had to replace the fuel pump.

mine would start and idle superb, but under load past 2k it would start to stutter and stumble. Got some new connectors, relay, and fuel pump and I was a happy camper. You should look to spend about $250 for a really decent pump and such.

[E-Thirty]

A friend had this issue and it turned out to be the fuel filter.

[TexasTerp]

My faulty fuel pump relay made similar symptoms.

Check this as well! before you buy a new fuel pump. this was the problem I had with my e36

[Scywrath]

My faulty fuel pump relay made similar symptoms.

[Shangsta]

is it always under load? or can ease past the 2k mark? what does your tac do when it starts cutting out?

Ill give it another drive around the block tomorrow morning to see what the tach is doing. The car can be eased past 2k but it doesnt really accelerate(the rpm will slowly go up but its not going any faster) so you have to give it more gas and then It starts cutting out. Ill look into the crank sensor and the fuel pump, the pump was one of the things I thought might be the culprit. Anyone know if there is a way to test the crank sensor?

[Harry's E30]

sounds exactly like what happened to me so I replaced the fuel pump and it hasnt happened since.

[BrownBeanE30]

yup its the crank censer

[call me jack]

By cutting out, you mean it completely dies or just feels like it loses power under load, but still is at least trying to fire? If it's the former, I'd guess crank sensor, otherwise you have some sort of fueling problem.

My eta have the first stated issue, and yes it was one of the crank sensors. One of symptoms was that the take would start to jump all over the place when it would cut out. intermittent problem, too

[call me jack]

is it always under load? or can ease past the 2k mark? what does your tac do when it starts cutting out?

[Vince30]

I just had a problem like this. It turned out to be the fuel pump.

Fuel pump would be my guess.

[pharow]

I just had a problem like this. It turned out to be the fuel pump.

[gearheadE30]

By cutting out, you mean it completely dies or just feels like it loses power under load, but still is at least trying to fire? If it's the former, I'd guess crank sensor, otherwise you have some sort of fueling problem.