whats the going rate for m50?
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I've sold them for 500-800 depending on mileage condition and if they could hear it run and do a compression test. 350-400 is a dam good deal if you can hear it run and do a test... At the pick n pull (cr) it cost about 300 with all accessories for a engine. But you can find a wrecked m50/52 car for 500 or less and go check it out do a compression test and there you go. It would be free by the time you parted/scrapped the rest... -
well, decided to go a different direction with my car...lol
anyway, i still have the lead on the motor, if any locals are interested hit me up. i bought my car from this guy, sent a few other people his way who were looking for things.
so yeah, if anyone wants a 400$ M50 in MD let me know, i put you in contact.Leave a comment:
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I bought my e36 parts car for $300, made my money back selling parts. I'm going to do the t-stat and water pump before it goes in the car and hope for the best. If the engine goes bad I have another e30 to daily while I rebuild the 24v for turbo.Leave a comment:
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Like $125, but that was in '09 and shipped to the warehouse where my dad was the manager.
Incredibly handy.
However, "dock shipping" should be fairly reasonable. Basically they ship it to the closest loading dock, and you show up with a truck and they put the pallet in the back.
Very true. I paid about $2500 for an S52, G260, 3.73 diff, E34 oil pan and a few other things + shipping.damn, thats awesome! i can tell that you are not making any sort of argument, however we are not comparing apples to apples in this case. vines would be far and away safer to buy from than lkq or pick a part. also, i am pretty sure your investment was a good deal greater than 250.00. getting that kind of reputability comes with some inherent cost.
I put it out there because a lot of the younger guys can't seem to grasp the difference between "price" and "value."
Just because something costs more, doesn't mean it was a waste of money.Leave a comment:
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i JUST referred a friend that has an e36 to a friend that has an e30. He's selling his m50 for less than 300, and I'm pretty sure he already pulled it since he's already got his S-engine in.
But I don't know the details of the engine, so maybe it has a few faults.Leave a comment:
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damn, thats awesome! i can tell that you are not making any sort of argument, however we are not comparing apples to apples in this case. vines would be far and away safer to buy from than lkq or pick a part. also, i am pretty sure your investment was a good deal greater than 250.00. getting that kind of reputability comes with some inherent cost.Leave a comment:
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^That's pretty awesome. If you don't mind me asking, what did it cost for shipping on it?Leave a comment:
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Which is precisely why you buy from a reputable 'yard, like Vines in Alabama.
My S52 I purchased from them popped the headgasket after a few hundred miles.
THE NEXT WEEK, I had a gasket set, new headbolts, and reman'd head delivered to my front door, free of charge.Leave a comment:
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Ive got a guy locally who wants to sell me an M50 with the DME, harness, and Manual trans/light flywheel for 1200 bucks. He says the car it came from had reciepts for some silly tricked out engine work but I dont believe anything until I see it.
Im tempted to make him an offer but I dont really feel like my lame Sedan is worth the trouble of a swapLeave a comment:
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If you're going to go from M20 to M50, in hopes of NOT really getting a big performance gain, but a reliabilty gain, I suggest you save the trouble and actually get a good, running, reliable M50 with all of it's service history. Junk yard M50's are sketch as hell.Leave a comment:
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Where on the RI craigslist are you finding M50's for $250? I need oneLeave a comment:
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sure, the junk yard is a great idea if you want to place your odds at better than 50% the the engine needs a rebuild. that will only set you back another 1800 bucks. i already said this once today, but penny wise and pound foolish.
i don't know what craigslist you use, but finding a "going rate" of 250 for a good running m50 is ridiculously cheap. just because you found one at that price certainly doesn't mean its the "going rate". hell, the wiring harness, ecu and obd1 parts will cost more than that.
edit: devon, do yourself another favor. if the compression test checks out, pull the oil pan off the engine and remove a main bearing cap or two to see what condition the bearing inserts are in. don't remove the rod caps unless you find the mains need replacement because that will require you to purchase new rod bolts.Last edited by flyboyx; 06-07-2011, 08:58 AM.Leave a comment:

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