You can. But a lot of the time an inner race decides to stay back and continue to let the spindle fornicate with it. Until you fornicate it with a dremel, chisel, and a hammer backed by some man muscle.
If it all comes out as a whole. No problems there.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Latest shitty luck thread...
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by TurboJake View PostI'm not worried. It just makes the most financial sense, because he'll need to replace his wheel bearing after he takes it off to replace the dust shield. In which you might as well replace the other side's bearing too.
That's more expensive than a shipped strut tube with a good bearing.
Leave a comment:
-
I'm not worried. It just makes the most financial sense, because he'll need to replace his wheel bearing after he takes it off to replace the dust shield. In which you might as well replace the other side's bearing too.
That's more expensive than a shipped strut tube with a good bearing.
Leave a comment:
-
Why is everyone worried about him needing a new strut tube?
As far as torque specs go, just tighten it until the bolt snaps, then back it off 1/4 turn. ;-)
Leave a comment:
-
Ill have to add to this one tonight I have had problems with two hub nuts from the front and rear suspension the front one I sorted out but the back one I am going to have to take to the mechanics.
Clearly the mechanics who worked on my car before I bought it did not give the shit.
Leave a comment:
-
UGGGHHH!!! but, I've been there, whan I bought mine had to replace:
all hoses
all belts
Plugs, all gaskets.
velve seals
Rear bearings
Tie rods
rebuld alternator
rebuild starter (replace rotor)
Everything that could be neglected by the PO was, all tires were different, It's true i bought it cheap, but you have to keep in mind that you have to do all the maintenance at once because the PO didn't do it.
My advice is, use a whole sunday to check all "maintenable" parts, retighten all bolts and nuts in the undercarriage. check and recheck everything, and if in doubt, brake it (or at least attempt to) if it holds, cool, if it doesnt it was going to break anyway.
regards
Leave a comment:
-
bend that crap back into shape as much as you can. Boy, its unbelievable that when something isn't tightend that it would come apart!!!
Leave a comment:
-
First off learn how to work on your car "properly" and stupid shit doesn't happen... They make torque specs for a reason... "hint, service manuals help, hint hint"
Leave a comment:
-
Well from what I've seen a lot of track guys run no front dustsheilds for extra cooling, but I guess those cars don't see as much road debris/dirt/grass, etc.
Leave a comment:
-
If you need strut housings, I have some sitting in my walkway that are in good condition that you could have if you wanted to pay shipping... (it would be pricey though) good luck man.
Leave a comment:
-
you really SHOULD get a replacement, but temporarily to get it mobile, you can cut it off.
and locktite those bitches this time.
Leave a comment:
-
What do you guys think about just dremeling the heat shield remainder off and just slapping some bolts back in? or should I really get a replacement there too?
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by bimmerpirate View Postam i mistaken but did both bolts for the caliper bracket come out?
Originally posted by dannyyisntt View PostI was gonna buy that car, but you beat me to it... Hope your luck changes for the better man. Look at it this way, eventually you'll replace everything and it will be a new car.
Originally posted by LJ851 View PostOuch. What did your wheel have to say about that?
Originally posted by delatlanta1281 View PostWhich is why a torque wrench and some blue goo is a good idea ;)
Leave a comment:
-
Yeah. I took it as a hint when I got my new front pagid pads that it came with a couple bolts with loctite already on them.
I have ATE calipers now though. So I just locktite'd the same bolts that the OP had back out.
Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: