Is it worth fixing...

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  • E30 Wagen
    replied
    ^ ignore him please. I'm so sick of seeing solid e30 chassis, especially late models, being parted out for a quick buck because some kid didn't have the measly $2000 to get it back on the road or else gave up half-way on his "track car" project he knows he never should have started. Man up and do it and be proud that you saved one.

    /rant

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  • E30 Cabrio
    replied
    There's a saying: "Nothing more expensive then a cheap BMW"

    Except maybe a free one that's been neglected.

    Part it out and put the money towards a nice, well-maintained E30

    Parting it out will also teach you how to wrench these cars, and the experience will be helpful down the road if you decide to buy an E30

    At least make a list of what it will need, then look up the prices on the internet and figure out how much time and money it will take to bring it up to par.

    Then add at least 20% to that number.

    Then start looking at what you can buy with the same amount of money.

    You're in California. There are nothing but rust-free, well-maintained E30's here at reasonable prices.

    Good luck with whatever you choose, but I would pass.

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  • JAM
    replied
    Originally posted by Aptyp
    Umm, buddy, every one on this forum got their cars in pretty much the same shape, and then worked their ass off to fix everything.

    HELL YEAH ITS WORTH IT.
    QFT

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  • esheg4ever23
    replied
    Originally posted by E30 Cabrio
    I say no. That's just the stuff you know about. You might dump a few grand into it and find more expensive "surprises"

    Save your money, find a nice, clean, well-maintained car with service records.

    $2500 will get you one.

    Maybe keep that car as a donor/parts car, but I would avoid it as it sounds like a neglected car that will be a money pit.

    Also, interior and exterior will be the most costly. What is the condition of the paint/body and the interior such as the seats?

    What kind of compression numbers is the engine putting out?

    When was the Timing Belt last changed?

    Blue coolant or Green?

    If Green, plan on flushing and filling with BMW Blue coolant and maybe replacing the Head Gasket if run with Green coolant.

    Were the Head Gasket bolts replaced/upgraded with the Torx bolts?

    $100.00 here, $300.00 there, another $250.00 on something else and it adds up mighty quick, not to mention your time.
    Man you know what you're right, I was having 2nd thoughts about it. my uncle bought it used in '92 and hasn't really taken care of it. Body work isn't a big deal for me I have a friend that has a body shop and has done body work and painted several of my cars for free. I guess I'm going to start taking pics and posting it in the F/S archive. Thanks for the help guys..
    Last edited by esheg4ever23; 04-02-2008, 05:23 PM.

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  • eric (^__^)
    replied
    yeah parts car is a good idea if it's too far gone

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  • E30 Cabrio
    replied
    I say no. That's just the stuff you know about. You might dump a few grand into it and find more expensive "surprises"

    Save your money, find a nice, clean, well-maintained car with service records.

    $2500 will get you one.

    Maybe keep that car as a donor/parts car, but I would avoid it as it sounds like a neglected car that will be a money pit.

    Also, interior and exterior will be the most costly. What is the condition of the paint/body and the interior such as the seats?

    What kind of compression numbers is the engine putting out?

    When was the Timing Belt last changed?

    Blue coolant or Green?

    If Green, plan on flushing and filling with BMW Blue coolant and maybe replacing the Head Gasket if run with Green coolant.

    Were the Head Gasket bolts replaced/upgraded with the Torx bolts?

    $100.00 here, $300.00 there, another $250.00 on something else and it adds up mighty quick, not to mention your time.
    Last edited by E30 Cabrio; 04-02-2008, 04:38 PM.

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  • esheg4ever23
    replied
    w00t

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  • eric (^__^)
    replied
    we are holding our collective breath

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  • esheg4ever23
    replied
    Originally posted by eric (^__^)
    Once you have it inspected you'll know what needs to be replaced. Then you can decide whether to upgrade those things in the process, or just go with the cheaper (sometimes) stock replacements.

    For instance if you need new control arm bushings, maybe get those mounts that delete the bushings and stiffen it up, or delrin/poly bushings etc.
    Oh alright, makes sense. This weekend I'm going to take it to tng to have it checked out and then I'll see what happens from there

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  • eric (^__^)
    replied
    Once you have it inspected you'll know what needs to be replaced. Then you can decide whether to upgrade those things in the process, or just go with the cheaper (sometimes) stock replacements.

    For instance if you need new control arm bushings, maybe get those mounts that delete the bushings and stiffen it up, or delrin/poly bushings etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • esheg4ever23
    replied
    Originally posted by eric (^__^)
    I think it's better to do suspension upgrades one at a time. It's easier on your wallet and fun to see the difference each upgrade makes, plus you'll learn more about driving in the process.
    What do you mean? Like fix the entire system then upgrade the springs?

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  • eric (^__^)
    replied
    I think it's better to do suspension upgrades one at a time. It's easier on your wallet and fun to see the difference each upgrade makes, plus you'll learn more about driving in the process.

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  • esheg4ever23
    replied
    The odometer stopped working after 150k miles, I'd say it has about 165-170k

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  • 1991 318is
    replied
    You didn't mention mileage. The condition of the engine and drivetrain are important considerations. Also rust you can see usually means there's some you can't. I would definitely have the unibody checked for rust and structural integrity. If it has a solid body, engine, and transmission I would go for it.

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  • esheg4ever23
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    honestly I think you could easily fix all of that stuff for $2k - shocks/springs, tires, brakes, and the rest you can get from parts cars and a bit of elbow grease.

    your PS sounds like it's just low on fluid - probably leaking from the hoses or banjo fittings. if it's the banjo fittings, replace the 10 cent crush washers. it could also be the rack, in which case you can use one from an E36 with some work - they cost around $100-$150 used.

    Sounds good, so if I want to just upgrade my suspension all at once should I take it to TNG and they'll take care of the rest? or do I have to buy the parts myself?

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