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WTF?? Guibo replacement

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  • HardTech
    replied
    Originally posted by peerless View Post
    Its a two peice drive shaft. If you look on the back side of the CSB you will see a collar nut. You will notice you have about 2 inches of splines showing.

    If you loosen the collar nut and the 2 attaching bolts for the CSB, you can push the front half of driveshaft backwards about 2"'. Now remove the 2 CSB bolts and drop the center of the shaft down, you should be able to twist and clear the 3 studs snd drum.
    thanks for your help, man.. I appreciate it. However, I loosened the collar nut and pushed down on the center, but still no go. The driveshaft is still attached to the guibo. I can't get the bolts off. I can remove the 3 nuts holding the guibo to the transmission, but I can't get the driveshaft bolts off unless I can get behind it

    Leave a comment:


  • Nicademus
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean View Post
    Guibo or flex disc is a wear item, and chances are your PO didn't replace it.
    Thanks Jean, as always you're quite helpful and informative.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    Originally posted by Nicademus View Post
    How come you replaced the guibo? I'm curious if mine needs replacing. I know somethings isn't right but I need to diagnose what it is.
    Guibo or flex disc is a wear item, and chances are your PO didn't replace it.

    Leave a comment:


  • peerless
    replied
    Its a two peice drive shaft. If you look on the back side of the CSB you will see a collar nut. You will notice you have about 2 inches of splines showing.

    If you loosen the collar nut and the 2 attaching bolts for the CSB, you can push the front half of driveshaft backwards about 2"'. Now remove the 2 CSB bolts and drop the center of the shaft down, you should be able to twist and clear the 3 studs snd drum.

    Leave a comment:


  • HardTech
    replied
    Originally posted by peerless View Post
    How is this going to work?

    The rear of the driveshaft is bolted via studs, even if you could move the driveshaft off the studs, it can't go anywhere because its encased by the subframe.

    To remove with dampener
    Drop the exhaust off the rear hangers and remove the tunnel cover. Unscrew the clamp ring just behind the CSB, loosen the CSB bolts and pry the front section back as far as it will go. Now remove the CSB bolts and drop the driveshaft down in the center. With a little bit of a fight it will come off 3 studs. You need to turn the driveshaft abit to get the flex disk to clear the studs. Bentely manual says 60*, but I never understood that.

    Now to prevent the problem in the future, remove the rear tail flange as described in Kenikas guide. (Nice work by the way) Now with the flange removed, knock out the 3 studs and remove dampener. Throw dampener and studs into nearest trash can. Replace the bolts with 10x1.5x50 and new metal lock pinch nuts.
    I checked the CSB for anything that can be unscrewed/unbolted/undone... except for the two bolts that attach it to the chassis, I didn't see anything. When you say pry the front section back, what part do you mean?

    From your post, it sounds like I have to remove the CSB before being able to drop the driveshaft. I guess this is where I'm having problems. I tried to drop the driveshaft, but there was something that prevented it from fully dropping. Maybe it was the CSB.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nicademus
    replied
    How come you replaced the guibo? I'm curious if mine needs replacing. I know somethings isn't right but I need to diagnose what it is.

    Leave a comment:


  • peerless
    replied
    Originally posted by SamE30e View Post
    That's weird, my 325 doesn't buy my 318 does..
    The 325 used a 12mm bolt flange for like half a year. From 5/86-early 87 the 325e used a large flexdisk, '454' being the last 3 numbers of the part number. The larger disk did not use the 'dampener', only the smaller 10mm bolt flange.

    In addition, any driveshaft job that goes through my shop has the dampener removed and discarded, as is standard procedure in some other shops and DIY owners. If you have one, remove it, and if you don't be happy about it.

    Leave a comment:


  • peerless
    replied
    Originally posted by HardTech View Post
    I've decided it's impossible to do unless the driveshaft is unbolted from the differential. I'll do that next time
    How is this going to work?

    The rear of the driveshaft is bolted via studs, even if you could move the driveshaft off the studs, it can't go anywhere because its encased by the subframe.

    To remove with dampener
    Drop the exhaust off the rear hangers and remove the tunnel cover. Unscrew the clamp ring just behind the CSB, loosen the CSB bolts and pry the front section back as far as it will go. Now remove the CSB bolts and drop the driveshaft down in the center. With a little bit of a fight it will come off 3 studs. You need to turn the driveshaft abit to get the flex disk to clear the studs. Bentely manual says 60*, but I never understood that.

    Now to prevent the problem in the future, remove the rear tail flange as described in Kenikas guide. (Nice work by the way) Now with the flange removed, knock out the 3 studs and remove dampener. Throw dampener and studs into nearest trash can. Replace the bolts with 10x1.5x50 and new metal lock pinch nuts.

    Leave a comment:


  • SamE30e
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean View Post
    Yeah I hate that thing as well. My 318 doesn't have it and the 325 does. It's not a harmonic balancer though.
    That's weird, my 325 doesn't buy my 318 does..

    Leave a comment:


  • HardTech
    replied
    thanks for the link. I looked at the guide, but I couldn't find a way to remove the guibo if a vibration damper is installed. There's no way to reach behind the guibo.

    I've decided it's impossible to do unless the driveshaft is unbolted from the differential. I'll do that next time

    Leave a comment:


  • kenika65
    replied
    Click on my 91is how to link in my sig and in the thread it explains how to replace your guiebo picture by picture.

    Leave a comment:


  • HardTech
    replied
    can anybody comment? I want to do this tomorrow and I'll only have internet for the next 15-20 minutes or so

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  • HardTech
    replied
    can somebody explain how they do this by lowering the tranny or raising the engine? I've felt behind the vibration damper (what I believe that metal housing is called), and I didn't think it could be removed like that.

    Do I have to drop the driveshaft at all to remove it if I lower the tranny or raise the engine?

    do I raise the engine by just sticking a jack under it and raising it up a little bit?

    Leave a comment:


  • Lodsin
    replied
    I didn't remember the name but it's some useless annoying name like that. Instead of dropping down your tranny you could have pushed up the engine a little bit that works as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jparkr
    replied
    remove it while its out. If you ever go with a short shifter there will be contact.

    Leave a comment:

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