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  • jbsjunk
    replied
    I had that before, ended up my rad was plugged almost 3/4 across the core with fuzz and road trash between the condenser and rad.

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  • Jean
    replied
    I swapped the head and gasket a few weeks back and found that the block is cracked... it's running and barely get's over 1/2 in traffic now but it does smoke a little bit on acceleration in 1st and sometimes between shifts. It does rev just fine to redline and makes power all the way to redline especially after putting all new gaskets and injectors, but it's still a POS.

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  • Lyrred
    replied
    +1 lol

    Originally posted by Bey
    My 84 has been doing that for years. Still runs strong though. Tough lil motors.

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  • dashboardmonkey
    replied
    Originally posted by Beach Bum
    Daaayum. Make sure we don't go to that shop?
    That shop would be Caldwells in Springfield, Or

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  • Beach Bum
    replied
    Originally posted by dashboardmonkey
    I did a rush job like that on a 2.2 chrysler motor in a minivan. Didn't even remove the timing belt. Removed head bolts, slid old gasket out, slid new one in.
    That fucking pirate I used to work for. I argued with him about it until he told me to do it that way or I was out of a job.
    Daaayum. Make sure we don't go to that shop?

    How's that M10 holding up? Sounds like you just had a low coolant problem. I get the same dealie sometimes, got a minor leak somewhere that's sipping about a quart every oil change.

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  • dashboardmonkey
    replied
    Originally posted by Joe318is
    atleast its and m10 headgasket. those take 15 minutes to change, tops.
    I did a rush job like that on a 2.2 chrysler motor in a minivan. Didn't even remove the timing belt. Removed head bolts, slid old gasket out, slid new one in.
    That fucking pirate I used to work for. I argued with him about it until he told me to do it that way or I was out of a job.

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  • e30trooper
    replied
    my m10 get kinda hot the highest was 3/4 going up a big hill at 65mph in 4th gear, low rpms = lower than a 1/2 on meter, i have a leaky radiator and i have a loud belt past 4k and im blowing some white smoke, this means the headgasket it, someone said its a hot cyl. due to head gasket thats y my spark plugs were burnt up and i have no power past 4 1/2 k, is it even worth keeping the m10 or swpaing for a m20? im a broke ass btw

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  • Jean
    replied
    Seems to be running just fine now, put about 60 miles on it today.... if it does it again I'll check the water pump. I have a spare "81" head and the one on my car is an "83", not sure if the combustion chambers are the same on them?

    Also, m10s don't have the tstat screws like the m20/m30 cars for bleeding. I just raise the front end of the car up on jack stands and do it that way.

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  • e30vert
    replied
    I know you probably have done this , but make sure to bleed the air from the system using both purge screws. I did not bleed correctly and had a good deal of air left in the system and my gauge would creep up some as a result.

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  • Holland
    replied
    I had this problem when I got the car. Ran hot all the way up the hill from Phoenix, M10 held very well. Replaced the radiator and thermostat. It did exactly what yours was doing. I then replaced the radiator hoses and then the water pump, found out my belts were a bit loose. Now the M10 runs perfect.

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  • kencopperwheat
    replied
    I was going to suggest checking the coolant level. Steam can give those readings. T-Stat, although fairly new, could still be the culprit. Thank god they're redic easy to change on an M10.

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  • Jean
    replied
    Lol, so much love in this thread haha.

    Anyway, electic fan seems to be blowing air like it did before.... no milkshake which is good. But, coolant was low about 1/2gallon. Water pump belt appears to be fine, I don't want to remove the water pump just yet. I did find a HUGE fuel leak at the back of the fuel rail, so another possibility that maybe it was running lean(er).... just replaced the fuel hose with a new one... Checked the temp gauge and it's operating fine by putting a variable resistor in place of the temp sensor.... could still be a bad sensor though I guess...

    Going to drive it and see how it's doing first, if I have to remove the pump, I'll probably want to swap the head/gaskets/injectors at the same time.

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  • structured
    replied
    Originally posted by blunt
    lets not rush to judgement. lets wait for the final word from structered
    As always blunt, you're a comedic genius.

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  • blunttech
    replied
    Originally posted by mikeedler
    your probably right.
    lets not rush to judgement. lets wait for the final word from structered

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  • structured
    replied
    Shut up already about the fan clutch, we know he isn't running one. It may well be something other than the fan, I'm just trying to give another perspective based on my experience with the same symptoms. Go ahead and take the engine apart without checking something much more accessable like your electric fan setup. Not my car so I don't really care.
    Last edited by structured; 01-31-2009, 11:52 AM.

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