E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Build_09. Suspension painting

Sanded all suspension parts. Smaller and less rusty parts were sandblasted at home, and very rusty rear levers, a differential had to be taken to an industrial sandblast. For a home-made one, you need either a more powerful compressor, or something to do with the supply of sand - it takes a very long and difficult time to sand. And the hood is needed, otherwise there is a lot of dust ... In general, here is the finished result of sandblasting:



I bought a set for a beginner painter))



I took a two-component epoxy primer, and a two-component glossy black enamel.
I welded crossbars from pipes to the ceiling and made such "garlands" like this)





I screwed the old cornice to make a curtain out of the film, but I did not find hooks for it and scored on it. But in vain .... now everything is covered in dust from soil and paint) And the sand on the floor did not contribute to painting)) We will work on this in the future ... And you need to buy a respirator, otherwise you can catch a "high")
As I said, the rear arms and differential were very badly rusted, and even after industrial sanding they began to show spots of rust in the pores of the cast iron the next day. Therefore, I also cleaned them slightly and blew them with acidic soil.



The same thing with the brake discs - they were blown on top with an aluminum-zinc compound.



Well, everything else is epoxy primer.



Including rear control arms and differential.



And the second layer of soil.



And finally, paint.



Spacers then painted separately in black mat.



I painted with two-component materials for the first time, and indeed with a pulver for the third time in my life, so I painted it, of course, not ideally)) With primer it’s still normal, but with paint it’s more difficult ... it turned out to be somehow too liquid in proportions of 4: 1. Made a lot of smudges, in some places even dripping. In some places I left gaps, mostly from below, since the light is only from above and black paint in the shade, I’m also blind))) Then I had to fix it all with a second layer ... But in the end it turned out quite normal - it’s normal for the suspension! )
Now the entire suspension is painted. Although no, there is no such thing as not to forget something! ) Recently, new protective covers for the rear brake discs arrived - one was painted, and the second was not ... They were in a box, so I forgot to paint them ...
I ordered these casings at the beginning of summer. I couldn't find Klokerholm, so I ordered Bleek. Weeks passed, the order was removed twice, but on the third time it happened! And after almost three months, these casings did arrive. The package contained one painted "Klokerholm", and the second was not painted.







Moreover, the label "Blick" was pasted over the "Klokerholm" label.





I don't know what's the catch, but I got Klokerholm for the price of Blick. Although, there is not a big difference in price, but the logic of the seller is still not clear. An unpainted casing may still be "Blick" - the quality of stamping is very different.



I won’t say that it is completely bad, but on black it is much better - like in the original. Well, we have what we have! (c) I'll paint both and it will be fine. Still waiting for rear bearings and silent blocks...
The other day new tie rods came - now the front can be assembled. This is what I'm finally going to do now! )

[The_Glory]

Build_08. Eibach Pro Kit springs and MTS shocks

With this quarantine, the delivery times are simply wild! A set of springs and front shock absorbers drove for almost two months, instead of 1-2 weeks ... But the other day I did arrive!



Eibach Pro Kit spring set with -30/40mm front lowering, -30mm rear. I hope that it will not turn out to be a "jeep", in comparison with my former TA-Techniks c -60 / 70mm sagging springs)) I always wanted these springs, and now, finally, I bought it!
Manufacturer's and seller's stickers included)



Set E2003-140 are springs for BMW E30 with 6-cylinder M20 engines up to 87 years of release (before restyling). Load - front 825 kg, rear 905 kg.



Set E2019-140 are springs for cars after 87 years (restyling). The understatement is similar, but they differ in load - 865 kg in front, 945 kg in the back. That is, they are tougher. And before restyling, they will be higher than indicated, and, accordingly, vice versa - this must be taken into account when choosing.

Eibach Pro Kit E2003-140



Front 2003001VA -30/40 mm



Rear EW2003102HA -30 mm



I really wanted shock absorbers to be included with my rear ones, the same ones - Bilstein B6, but their price did not fit in the budget in any way ... I looked at used ones, but did not dare. In my opinion, the suspension should be bought new. Therefore, I bought similar ones to those that were - they suited me with everything. MTS-Technik with -40/60 mm reduction. I think it should be normal ... but B6 will be sometime later ....;)
Packed them in bags and put in a box with springs.



Mounting nut for pole and stem nut included.



MTS-Technik for flask 51 mm



During this time, more parts for assembling the suspension arrived - lower rubber bands for the front springs, lock washers for the rear hubs, an ABS wire bracket for the rear beam, rear support gaskets, nuts for the rear and front supports. Also bought a set of front bumpers and anthers. Last time, when installing "coilovers", I could not find a fender for such an underestimation for a long time - the stock one is quite long, and the M-Technic is only 15-20 mm shorter (at a not small price only in the original). This is not enough when lowering to -40 mm. Cutting fenders is such a solution - it loses a lot of rigidity at the same time. And that's when I picked up short bumpers from Opel (Cadet, Ascona, Vectra). Since I bought similar shock absorbers, I took the same fenders - MONROE PK004



Here, by the way, old and new for comparison.



It can be seen that even a short bumper shrank, and with a stock long one, the amortization would constantly lie on it.

In general, finally the front suspension can be assembled. Now in the process of sanding and painting beams, levers and racks.
During this time, I also prepared the steering rack, steering column, trapeze wipers, and there are all sorts of small pieces of iron. But about this separately.
It remains to wait until all the silent blocks and bearings on the rear arrive, and it will be possible to assemble the rear suspension. Then roll it to the painter for hanging bodywork. Everything seems to be ready, but I haven't seen it yet...)
By the way, there is a question here - if you press in the rear bearings and hubs, but do not install the gearbox and axle shafts, will it be possible to tow it on a rigid hitch? And that is, there is an opinion that the wheels can fall off along with the hubs))) Are they pressed there with a large interference fit, or are they simply inserted tightly? Or not to risk and carry on a trailer?

[The_Glory]

Build_07. Fastener preparation. Yellow zinc.

I gave fasteners for electroplating, which I forgot or did not have time to prepare last time.
Prepared in the same way - citric acid - a topic! ) Several details were sandblasted for testing.
Took this beauty in yellow zinc:



Party Gold! ))







Fasteners GUR, something along with the suspension and steering immediately install.



And this is an “extra” fastener, well, like an extra one ... I mean, I don’t know / don’t remember where it came from - I just found it in boxes. But it will come in handy somewhere ... It was very rusty, maybe that's why it turned out with a purple-raspberry tint ... Directly - fasteners of an interesting color! )



And the next batch of pieces of iron is ready for yellow galvanizing.



But there are all the engine compartment glands - it’s still a long way to install the motor, so they’ll wait for now ...
By the way, I made myself a plate according to the types of factory coating of different pieces of iron. It will be necessary to lay out - maybe it will be useful to someone.

P.S.
The springs promised to arrive one of these days, but the shock absorbers are still driving somewhere ...)

[The_Glory]

[b]Build_06. Preparing details - waiting ... [/ b]


Nothing happens to the car during this time - I covered it with an awning so that it would not be covered with dust and wait ....





Mounted parts, apparently, will be painted for a long time - I'm waiting ...
I ordered shock absorbers - I'm waiting ...
I ordered springs - I'm waiting ...
I ordered all sorts of pieces of iron and rubber bands for the suspension - I'm waiting ...
I gave fasteners for galvanizing - I'm waiting ...
With these quarantines, everything is complicated and long ... because of this, and with work, or rather with a salary, the ass has come, now the budget had to be cut, and this will also affect the timing .... in short, everything is somehow complicated and very it takes a long time ... Until I put it on wheels, I can’t assemble body parts and make anticorrosive of all cavities. Noise isolation and wiring is also not a desire to do, so that later it would not be stained with anticorrosive .... That's how one clings to another and even until I can't get off the ground .... ((
But still, there is some news. I bought a whole rear beam and on occasion, I bought a whole and already sanded and painted shield in the rear right arch.



Now I have a choice of three pieces - we'll see .... I recently wrote about their differences



A nice person gave me a whole radiator diffuser because mine was broken at the bottom.
The diffuser is from the E36, but I even thought that it was the same as for the E30 with the M40. But in fact, when comparing them, they turned out to be the same in fasteners, but different in the position of the impeller, relative to the radiator - this can be seen in the photo.



It is unlikely that he will ... but we'll see ...

While there is time, I am engaged in arranging a garage and a workshop. Almost finished sandblasting - here are the results of the first tests - like the norms.





For small parts I bought a special gun





It seems to work, but for large and heavily rusted parts, you still need to finish a large cylinder and make an exhaust hood - there is a lot of dust from it ...



But I will write about this separately when it is ready.
I can’t decide on the suspension painting - sand and paint it myself, but this again delays the time until I finish the big sandblast, or still give it to powder painting ...
Basically, we are waiting...

[The_Glory]

[B] Body repair_30. BBS body kit repair, attempt No. 2 (part 3) [/ B]

Let's continue from the beginning! )
In a previous post, I described repairing a BBS body kit using Mannol 9918 2K-PUR 2-component polyurethane adhesive (30ml). The entire scope of work took 6 cartridges. But there are still some little things left - extra holes and a badly damaged mounting side of the front apron.
After the trial installation of the body kit, I prudently circled the necessary holes with a black marker.



Accordingly, all the rest had to be removed. Liquid glue was not very suitable for this, besides, it ended. And then I remembered hot glue. I had black rods, but they did not fit the glue gun in diameter. Therefore, he simply warmed them with a lighter or a burner and covered up the extra holes. Then I cut off the excess and it turned out not bad at all.







I cleaned off the BBS factory mark on the front apron - now it will be clear from the front that this is a rare and original BBS set)



On the front apron, on one side, there was practically no mounting side. With the help of a plastic corner and hot glue, it was possible to restore it.



The front part will still grind in preparation



And now about the "collective farm BBS")) Earlier, I already wrote about an interesting BBS solution with a tow hook. Velcro! )) Collective farm, and only! ))) But here it is, BBS! On self-tapping screws, and on Velcro! )) Well, actually, I decided to repeat the original collective farm))
Finding such a cover is almost impossible, so I took the dimensions, made a 3D model and, after the N-th number of layouts on paper, printed it on a 3D printer. The third time it turned out fine)





But to be honest - it looks so-so ... The difference with the left side is very noticeable ... well, we'll see ...
This concludes the BBS, and move on to the spoilers.

I had the original spoiler installed and a Breyton wing on top of it. If you say that this is a collective farm and bust, then I will answer you - BMW M-Technic II and Zender spoilers have a similar 2-storey structure. This is at least. Seemed like someone else, but I do not remember. I like the way it looks, so I'll leave it that way. But for this you need to put them in order.
The ends of the original spoiler are cut to fit the Breyton wing, and the metal base around the edges is quite badly rotted.



I removed as much of the loose rust as I could. On the one hand, even the mounting stud fell off.



I filled it all with a rust converter, then filled it with hot glue. To do this, I still had to buy a gun for 11 mm rods - a sensible thing, I think it will come in handy more than once for repairing plastic.





And now I will dispel another very popular myth, which says that if you paint the original rubber spoiler, it will eventually crack and peel off. So — this spoiler was painted in 2000. And during this time, the only "jamb" was a slight swelling of the paint, apparently from the ingress of water. You can see it in the photo.



However, not a single crack! Moreover, the coating is still elastic, and it can be torn off like a film!



Again, I repeat - you just need to be able to paint like that! The painter said that it was all about plasticizers, and that he would paint in the same way.

Let's move on to the Breyton wing. This is a pretty rare thing. Is it an original or a replica - I don't know, because in the original their body kits for the E30 were made of fiberglass - just like my rear wing. The quality looks quite like the original ... but it is not known there ...



But I can say for sure that the third brake light is already a self-made "tuning". For which this was cut out.



Maybe I would have left it - it looked not bad, and there was practical use - the diodes still light up before the bulbs in the taillights - this is noticeable visually. But I put the original third brake light, and it turned out too much)) Therefore, I decided to remove it. But I don’t know how to work with fiberglass, so the painter will do it.
The wing, unlike the stock spoiler, is fastened not with studs, but with bolts - there are threaded bushings inside.





Breyton mark



2 in 1 )



And now about the sad ... ((In the evening I put all the plastic in the trunk. Like this.



I put the thresholds on the front apron, which I specially placed vertically so that it would not bend ...



In the morning I went to work, put the car in the parking lot, and in the evening immediately to the painter. I arrived, pulled out the thresholds ... and then, I almost cried ... ((((On the street during the day it was more than +30, in the car it was probably +50 - and the apron, under the weight of the thresholds, caved in by 15 centimeters! I was just speechless ... after all I rushed with him like a fool, 5 years in the garage, so that he would not be scratched or bent anywhere, and then in one day such a fuck!
Horror ... the painter reassured me that everything would be evened out ... but I don't know ... fuck!
On this "optimistic" note on body kit - the end ...

[The_Glory]

[B] Body repair_29. BBS body kit repair, attempt No. 2 (part 2) [/ B]

In the previous entry, I forgot to say that the BBS body kit is made of polyurethane, so it is not soldered, and it is very poorly glued with ordinary glue for plastic or for bumpers - I checked this a long time ago. A more or less normal result was achieved after connecting the cracks with internal metal linings on flush rivets, followed by filling the cracks from the outside with sealant. But over time, cracks still appeared at the joints. That is why this time I bought a 2-component polyurethane adhesive. This is a material similar in composition, which forms a "monolith" at the joints.
There is an opinion that polyurethane cannot be glued with fiberglass to epoxy with high quality. I will write about this below.

So, I bought four more cartridges of 2-component polyurethane adhesive Mannol 9918 2K-PUR (30ml), and after gaining a little experience, I started to more complex damage. A big crack, or rather a tear, in the rear apron. Fixed the edges with a plate.





Mixing components directly on the mesh is not very convenient, especially if the surface is not in the same plane. Therefore, I began to mix the glue on a piece of tile, and then apply the finished mixture to the grid. So much more convenient. Here's a "yin-yang")



Apply to the grid



The glue is quite liquid, so if you apply it to horizontal and vertical sections at the same time, it starts to flow down. Therefore, on the front apron, I already glued separately horizontal and vertical sections - experience and practice is a great thing! )
Front side - the crack is not completely filled



Additional outer layer to completely fill the crack



Excess will be removed when preparing for painting.
And now, as I promised above, a few words about gluing polyurethane with fiberglass with epoxy resin. Here, opinions are divided into radically opposite ones - some say that it glues well, others that it immediately disappears, since polyurethane is flexible, and fiberglass with epoxy is rigid, so they are not compatible. I myself thought so at first ... So, - I bought this apron in 2008, already glued in one place - just on the BBS factory mark, so it was cleaned and puttied.



The crack is the same size as the second one, and they are located nearby - on the sides of the niche for the towing eye. In this photo on the left you can see the trace of the old repair.



And the repair was made with the help of fiberglass and epoxy!



I don’t know how and from what the second crack appeared - I gave the car to my father and he somehow managed to catch on to something)) But the fact that after a very hard contact with something, the apron was torn in another place “on the live”, and a crack glued more than 10 years ago with fiberglass, located nearby, ten centimeters away, did not suffer at all - it says something! Apparently, you just need to know the right proportions and be able to work with epoxy resin - then there will be a high-quality joint. Even polyurethane.
But back to our sheep. Those. to the front apron.
There was a crack on the sidewall, which I greatly expanded - I thought I overdid it ...





But as it turned out later - it's even better - it was perfectly filled with glue and did not have to be glued on the outside. The glue spread well under the tape.



We remove the adhesive tape



Lightly cleaned



From within



By the way, on this crack I noticed that the glue is semi-transparent to the light, although it seems black.
And finally, the most difficult place remains - a gap along the bottom of the "lip". At first I fixed it with a plate, but it interfered a lot, so I decided to glue it without it. As I wrote above - first the horizontal plane



Then vertical



So much more convenient. And an additional outer layer



From within



On the thinnest places left riveted plates.
By the way, you can see the place of repair from the first attempt nearby. The second attempt turned out to be even neater.
Hope it holds up well.
At this point, I ran out of glue, but there were still some little things left. About them in the next part;)

[The_Glory]

[B] Body repair_28. BBS body kit repair, attempt No. 2 (part 1) [/ B]

Almost a year and a half has passed since the first unsuccessful attempt to repair its body kit BBS, but during this time the cracks on it even did not grow themselves ...)) Therefore, there was nowhere to put it off, and something had to be done ... A special Teroson glue gun I never found 9225 (50ml), and the toad still choked to buy it ... Therefore, I decided to try an alternative option - Mannol 9918 2K-PUR glue (30ml). The volume of the cartridge is slightly smaller, but in terms of it it costs almost three times cheaper, and in terms of composition and description it is, in fact, an analogue of Teroson 9225. Another huge plus is that it is packed in cartridges in the form of a double syringe. You don't need to buy any $60 guns and adapters to mix components with it.
I ordered two cartridges to try. Another "plus" was the presence of two nets and a film in the kit.
The anti-silicone and plastic primer remained after the first attempt. Here is the entire set of materials:



I decided to try on the simplest and most inconspicuous place - a small crack at the bottom of the threshold.
Did everything as written in the instructions. I cleaned the paint on both sides, widened the crack and drilled it at the end. Treated with anti-silicone, and then with a primer.





Further, something was written in the instructions, such as this - "glue the film on the front side and the mesh on the inside." No matter how hard I tried, I couldn’t separate the backing from the adhesive film… then I realized that it was not an adhesive film, but just an ordinary piece of film! )) How to glue it - I don’t understand ... I glued it on top with adhesive tape! )



To glue the mesh, as I understand it, you need to immediately use this glue. I cut it out, laid the mesh, fixed the crack with clamps.



Well, in fact, he applied glue and mixed it with a spatula right on the grid, evenly distributing about 5 cm around the crack - as the book says. Not very convenient, but it turned out to be normal.



I warmed it up a bit with a hair dryer, and waited 15-20 minutes. After that, I cut off the excess mesh and glue along the edge. Finished result:



Outside:



I tried to bend, twist, beat in this place - it holds well, no cracks appeared!
We pass to the second threshold.



Here I slightly simplified the technology - instead of a film with adhesive tape, I immediately glued adhesive tape to the front side. After removing the adhesive tape, I also missed the front side a little more.



It turned out well inside too.



Outside, slightly cleaned up - it turned out to be a "monolith". Tugged - I think it should hold up well ...



This is the end of the first cartridge. The expense is not small.
The second cartridge was enough for two symmetrical cracks along the edges of the rear apron.



By the way, near the cracks on both sides there are some kind of metal wire staples - apparently this is a factory reinforcement of these places, something like reinforcement.







The result is excellent





At this point, I ran out of the second cartridge and went to order four more.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_27. Be careful, it is freshly painted! )

Finally the body is painted! It hasn't even been a year! )
I chose a color for a very long time and painfully. Or rather, I decided on the color a long time ago - I always wanted a blue E30) But it was difficult with a shade ... The old blue shades were not so much liked, but the new ones are beautiful, but they look good on new cars, but on the E30 they can look not entirely appropriate... Therefore, having reviewed a bunch of photos of different shades, in pictures, on samples, I chose with great difficulty, as it seems to me, the "golden mean"! )
This color is from Individual 1991 - Pur Blau Metallic (253)
Here is now my "teaser" in color, and in all its beauty )



The color, although not from the standard colors for the E30, is from the E30 era - 1991. And it may well be that E30s of the last years of production were painted in it on order, since it is from the "individual" line.
As standard, only BMW Z1s were painted in this color.



It is also in some way E30 in some places)) so this color can be considered correct for E30))
And most importantly, I love it!
After calling the painter, took the trailer and rushed to pick up! ) And that's what I saw - beauty! )



Walked around, looked at with a smile from ear to ear)) Another dream come true idiot! )))
We loaded onto a trailer and drove home.



The weather was as bad as it could be... Contrary to the forecasts, it was raining heavily in the morning. Wanted to pick up in dry weather, but did not work out. The painter strongly did not advise to cover with an awning, so that he would not rub fresh paint on the go, so I had to carry it in the rain. But even in the rain, the color looks great, as for me;) And in the sun it will be generally super!









They dragged it to the garage, wiped it there, blew all the water with air, and dried it.



By the way, in the garage a little put things in order and "beauty") But more on that later, but for now just a photo of painting.























Further plans are as follows - while all the hinged body elements and the body kit are being painted, I need to put it on the wheels, and then again to the painter - we assemble it there, set all the gaps, tint the fixing nuts of the hinged parts, and the final stage is polishing. Must be beautiful! )

[The_Glory]

[b]Build_05. Preparation of parts - rear calipers, head restraints, etc. [/ b]

I continue to prepare the details.
The starter was overhauled two years ago, it works fine, so it was just washed / cleaned and painted.



Painted with aluminum-zinc paint APP.



It turned out beautifully, but in fact, it's kind of like not paint, but primer. It says on it that it can be covered with any paints. What if you leave it like that? It's all the same type, like a zinc coating ... I really like the color and texture. I even thought of painting all the aluminum parts on the motor like this.
I also tried it on sound signals - it also looks great.





When I bought an additional fuel tank, at the same time in the same place, I bought a few more necessary parts:
- the thermostat housing, since the thread was broken on mine in one hole, so I put the nut.
- a whole plastic shield with a bracket in the rear right arch, since a corner was broken on mine and there was no bracket
- a whole (!!) metal shield for tank ventilation hoses in the rear right arch - this is generally an artifact!



And with these details, I noticed an interesting thing - according to the ETK, each of them has one number, but in fact the details have significant differences!
Thermostat housing for M20. Now I have three of them. All three bear the same number 1 265 055.



My one on the far left, with the stamp of 85-86 - without "extra" holes and plugs. But, as I said above, one thread on it is damaged, so I bought another case with whole threads a long time ago, but I never changed it. He is on the far right in the photo. I did not like the "plugs" in the form of bolts on the two additional holes. I don’t know why they were, maybe there were some kind of hoses for the “Jetronic”. Although it is stamped 90-91 years. But somehow not aesthetically pleasing) The third case with the same number, and the stigma of 81-82, but there are even more differences - the sensors are slightly shifted, and there is also a third sensor instead of one plug. The sensor is interesting - not just a temperature one, but also with some kind of "timer". Breaks into the "sharks" - I wonder what he is for?
In general, under one number, in fact three different parts.

Next is a metal shield in the arch. According to the ETC, it has only one number 16 13 1 179 011. Mine rotted into dust, but the remnants of its fasteners remained - 6 studs. I bought a slightly less rotten guard and it ended up being 4 studs. On my donor part from the touring there were also 4 studs, on the forum I also found information about four studs ... Well, I think it means that it seemed to me about 6 studs ... and 4 pieces were welded to me on this shield. And then I accidentally find this almost perfect whole shield, and it has 6 studs! Here they are both:



Judging by the photo, the front part with 4 studs is inserted into the tube, and with 6 studs it is pressed with two more nuts over the tube. Damn... and now I have 4 studs and a shield for 6 studs... and how to fix it now is not clear... cook the studs? It's fucked up with these numbers! ))

Next is a plastic shield in the arch. Since the metal one differs in width and in its rear part, the plastic shields under the same number 1 176 748 are also different! The difference is in the width of the cutout for the metal shield.



My old broken one was under the shield for 6 studs, and the new one for 4. Again, out of place! )
In general, these are trifles, but they add crap during assembly! Be careful, if so! ;)

Thanks to a friend, I now have such beautiful rear calipers:





Thanks again!
I will paint later, when my hands reach the front ones.

Another thanks to a friend for exchanging my "spare" headrests for his houndstooth headrests in excellent condition. Now I have four of them. Someday, I hope, I will collect the whole goose puzzle! )))



And now about the Chinese things)))
I also bought a cover for the car - my garage is very dusty, and the assembly will take a long time) ... I think it will not be superfluous. I took it with a soft cotton lining - it was so in the description) In fact - there is a lining, but they obviously greatly exaggerated about its softness and cottoniness))
Another occasion bought a new emblem with clips and a set of "blades" for clips. Logically, they should have been bought before disassembly, but better late than never)
Well, at the same time, a key strap is probably a handy thing in the summer, when there are not enough pockets in jeans))





P.S.
Today I almost finished the "repair" in the garage and put things in order there) At least some benefit from quarantine! )

[The_Glory]

S850 Additional tank (part 2)

Recently, about 11 years ago)), I already wrote about this option on my machine.
An additional fuel tank was installed as an option on the E30 up to 87 years old with M20 engines, and on M3.
This is the option I have. On the dashboard there is a "display meter" with a scale for 2 tanks, not the same as everyone else - there is a two-part scale, and there is no graduation in liters:



The arrow shows for the most part of the scale a full main tank of 55 liters (in the photo, just almost full). And the second, smaller part of the scale is for an additional 15l tank. In total, the total volume is 70 liters. good stock)
The additional tank naturally has its own level sensor. I just had it in my trunk.



Wiring, of course, under this all also has its own. I didn't have a tank. Googling, I found his photo. It is placed behind the partition of the trunk.



I already have a ski bag there, a rear brace, so after weighing the pros and cons, I decided that I didn’t really need this tank. So I didn't really look for it. There were several options, but either far, or very expensive, or both together) And just the other day, I did buy this tank. Very close, and as it turned out, even a teammate. In new condition - the same as the main tank.
The set includes a tank, a double filler neck and its sealing gum, a level sensor with a connector.









The tank has a special shape for the slope of the trunk partition and its ribs.





Filler neck for two tanks, and, accordingly, with two ventilation outlets. Compared to stock:



Double neck with a metal check valve, unlike my usual one.



For this tank, all the trunk linings are different, except for the rear. Carpet included. This is the problem - I don’t have them, and I have never seen them for sale ... The price of new ones is not encouraging, and only the front is available ...





Maybe I’ll buy it, but the side panels and the carpet can be cut, as a last resort ... we’ll see ...
Here you can see how they look on the M3:



And now the main problem... This is the rare case when the original BMW factory option is installed not with a "bolt-on", but with an additional hemorrhoid! You can see it clearly in the next photo:



Firstly, in the body you need to drill a large hole for the filler neck, since I did not see the plugs there.
Secondly, four corners need to be welded to the floor of the trunk - two for attaching the tank, and two for attaching the skin.
Thirdly, two more brackets for attaching the tank and trim need to be welded onto the trunk bulkhead.
Considering that I will only have a car from painting, there is no particular desire to do all of the above ... therefore, I don’t know ... maybe this tank will remain in the garage, purely for a collection of rarities .... or maybe not .. .we will think .... we will see ...
But the valve in the neck should be! I will change mine to a stock neck with a valve. By the way, I found such a thing in the ETK - 16 11 1 180 157. Despite the mysterious name "Lead-free insert" - this is a plastic valve that is inserted into the neck.



Was put on cars with a catalyst. It turned out that he would not fit into the usual neck. There must be welded a special metal ring for this valve. Although according to the ETK numbers, these necks are the same.
Still on the topic of tanks - in the course of searching, I found a photo of a rare early E30 tank /#1176250_1]16 11 1 176 250[/url]) - were placed only until September 1983. It looks smaller (on the right), but according to the ETK it is 58 liters. On the left, normal for pre-restyled (55l)



P.S.
Taking advantage of the availability of free time, I bring at least some kind of "beauty" in the garage, otherwise I don’t want to put a beautifully painted car in such trash)))

[The_Glory]

Bucket and rag

Despite the name, the topic is not about a dead car with a fabric interior)
And even, not about washing the car)))

The topic is about quite rare things.
For a long time I have already seen a useful thing in the catalog of accessories for the E30 - a round niche in the spare wheel for any small things (82 12 9 413 175).







The spare wheel is turned "face" down, and a plastic "bucket" is installed inside the disk, which is pressed by the standard spare wheel mount, and, in fact, presses the spare wheel. This, of course, is not as cool as a canister in a spare wheel, but for that it is very practical - now you can use the empty volume of the spare wheel niche and put all small things there.
This is a universal accessory, so it was available for other models of those years - they are listed on the label in the first photo. In 1996, it was replaced by a similar niche, but without a partition (71 11 1 092 276) for E36, E46.
But the ETK gives a "blessing" for its installation and for older machines;)
Can be installed when replacing on an older vehicle
Old part 71 11 9 413 175

http://bmw-autocats.ru/parts-catalog/71111092276/

Therefore, when I saw this niche for sale, I looked at the ETK and bought it. It seems that it should be "correct" for the E30 too)









I tried it on, and then it turned out that it’s not so suitable for the E30 ... at least not on all wheels.
To begin with, we put on a stock spare tire with a metal disk 5Jx14 ET35 - it does not fit in diameter.



Stock metric TRX 365x150TD ET35 - also does not fit in diameter.



O.Z. KING (ALPINA look) 7Jx15 ET13 - slightly out of reach.



BORBET A 7.5Jx16 ET20 - almost fits in... a bit lacking depth of departure...



BORBET A 9Jx16 ET15 - fit! )



It will be necessary to try it on in the car - maybe it will fit with 15 ", the main thing is that it doesn’t rest against the trunk carpet. I just have this wheel for a spare tire. Or look for a spare tire 9 ") We'll see ...
I also saw somewhere that later versions of such a niche from E46 are installed - it completely covers the spare wheel.





But maybe, you also need to measure ...

With the "bucket" clarified - now a rag! )
All models from E12 to E38 could be equipped with a polishing cloth (71 11 1 115 810).

http://bmw-autocats.ru/parts-catalog/71111115810/

It is a soft square napkin in pale blue with the BMW logo in the lower left corner.





The last years of production, its color was more bright blue, and the BMW logo is drawn a little differently - with a fill in a circle.



This napkin was not expensive, but has long been discontinued, and is not available for order. When used for its intended purpose, it wore out and was thrown away like a regular rag. Therefore, now, original napkins are extremely rare, and even in the state of "rags" they cost a lot of money. I met on Ibee for 100 euros or bucks, I don’t remember exactly. Overkill, in my opinion)
In general, I bought a "replica")) I am not very good at different fakes, but if the "replica" is not inferior in all properties and qualities, and corresponds to the original - and is absolutely 100% copy - then this is quite acceptable. I think so ... In this case, it is - a great cloth! ;)







Now I will have two "replicas" on my car - black headlights "hella black" made by hand, similar to the original, and this rag! :)

P.S.
Next time I will write about another very rare rarity - the original one;)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_26. Development

I can't stand Kirkorov and his songs, but today my mood color is blue! )))
The fact is that today suddenly) the painter called and said - come see the color! I dropped everything and ran! ))
She's already blue! )



The inside is also blue.







The beauty! Walked around her for 20 minutes with an idiotic smile! ))





nice under the hood







The long-suffering roof is even and beautiful)



The bottom is also now with a light blue))



In general, the result of the preparation is excellent - the development did not show any jambs. Literally a couple of small points need to be corrected under the hood and on the thresholds. The painter and I are happy! ) It will "settle" for a few days, and next week it is planned to finish painting.
It's just blue developing acrylic. I finally saw the final color today live on such a "sample"))



The sun is the bomb! Beautiful color - I'm happy with my choice! ;) But let's wait for the final result, then I'll post it in all its beauty, so to speak! )

[The_Glory]

Build_04. Adsorber

Slowly I continue to prepare the parts for assembly. Today we will talk about a very important detail. Very important for the environment!
To comply with the environmental standards of the 80s of the last century "Euro 2", in addition to the exhaust gas catalyst, an adsorber was also installed in the tank ventilation system. What it is, and how it works in theory and in practice, is described very well and in detail on the Internet.
And in short - this is an activated carbon filter that prevented gasoline vapors from entering the atmosphere. These vapors were collected in the expansion tank, and with the help of a special valve, they entered the intake manifold and were burned. The adsorber is installed (only on E30 with a catalyst) under the hood, near the fuel filter on the left side member. Although, it is considered "eternal", and cannot be replaced according to the regulations, but for 35 years, it certainly got tired) Therefore, I decided to restore it. Ecology is our everything! )
I stripped off the remnants of paint, cleaned it of rust, treated it with a rust converter



At the bottom there was once foam rubber, but it turned into dust. The grid is fixed with core notches in four places. Besides, it's still rusty. Therefore, I had to savagely, but carefully, pick out the grille with a thin screwdriver.



Felt pad under the grate. We take it out and see the same activated carbon.



We pour it out - it stinks, of course, strongly!



Moreover, the one above is darker and even more smelly. Small granules, different shades of black and gray - apparently from the degree of contamination ...



Inside we see a cap with a mesh and another felt pad. We take out the cap, then the rubber ring, then the gasket.



What to do with coal? Change, of course! Gas mask filters are very suitable for this. Buying them is not a problem, although, for example, mine turned out to be already produced in 1967 - apparently, they were well stocked in case of a nuclear war! )



We cut the body in a circle, take out the filter cloth, make an incision in the grid and pour out the coal.



One large filter was not enough. We cut a small one - it turned out to have a different design, and coal fell immediately from the cut.



By the way, based on the design, the filtration quality of a large filter will be better. Granules of Soviet coal are smaller than German)



The case was cleaned from the inside, primed and painted, the felt pads were washed, the mesh cap was washed.



Assemble in reverse order. I blew the body and mesh, put a felt pad, put on a rubber ring with a cap. We check that the cap is held and does not fall out.



Throw in new charcoal. Just enough coal from one large and one small filter. If you take large, then you need two, if small, then five pieces.



We insert the lower felt pad and the grate into place, crimp along the edge with pliers, and re-kern at the same four points. The paint was a little damaged, so I had to tint the bottom.



We insert a new foam rubber and press it with the legs.



As a result, we get a practically new adsorber, again ready to fight for the environment within the framework of Euro 2! )
How do you like that, Greta Thunberg!? ))))))



Well, all the other components of this ecosystem are also ready for installation - an expansion tank, a valve and an adsorber.



I will buy new hoses and pipes along with fuel ones. I will write about this separately later.

P.S.
I bought a few more rarities, about them next time! ;)

[The_Glory]

[B] Double vacuum brake booster E30 (325ix) [/ B]

Literally before I dismantled the car, some problems began with the vacuum booster - I don’t remember exactly, but it seemed that the engine speed started to jump when braking. I then did not begin to understand, and postponed it until the moment of assembly. And now, this moment is already kind of close) Therefore, I decided to just change the vacuum brake booster, since I always didn’t really like its “racing” red color) And in general, he is already very tired. After reading laudatory reviews about the installation of a double vacuum brake booster, I decided, since I have to change, why not put a double one. Although, they usually put it when replacing motors with more modern and powerful ones, but for me it's just such a small "upgrade". Usually they put a vacuum brake booster from newer bodies of the 5th or 7th series. To do this, you need to shorten the stem and cut the thread on it, as well as drill the mounting holes in the body. After painting, I absolutely did not want to drill the body. Therefore, I decided to look for a double vacuum brake booster specifically for the E30. According to the ETK, it was installed only on restyled (after 87) all-wheel drive models 325ix - 34 33 1 161 486. By applicability, the same vacuum brake booster was installed on the E34 M30B30, M5 S38B36, E32 M30B30, and E32 M30B35:

http://bmw-autocats.ru/parts-catalog/34331161486/

This expands the search circle a little, since there are not so many E30 Xs, even restyled ones, and even more so during disassembly. But I was lucky - I found a vacuum brake booster from the E30 325ix. Without thinking twice, I decided to take. There were difficulties with delivery, but thanks to a long-time clubmate E30 YarikM3, everything was resolved - Yarik, thank you! )
Well, actually, I have it.



E30 325ix - and there would be no doubt! )



The manufacturer is not ATE, like my stock one, but Girling.



The sticker is torn off, but there are some marks with red paint, maybe factory ones ...



Brake master cylinder, of course, for ABS, with two outlets.



One exit at an angle, but it will not be difficult to bend the tube. The thread is the same as mine. The connector on the reservoir lid is different, but also not critical - either I will put my own lid on, or I will replace the connector on the wiring if the ATE lid does not fit.
Another difference is in the location of the vacuum hose, it is from different sides, but this is also not at all important - you still need to replace it.



Double is smaller in diameter, but more voluminous, and lighter in weight.



And now, the most important thing.
The distance from the mounting plane to the hole on the rod is the same - i.e. no need to cut the stem and cut the thread on it!





And the best part is that the distance between all four studs is also the same (I measured it with a caliper both along the perimeter and along the diagonals) - that is, a “bolt-on” is placed, without picking the engine shield!





I hope this "upgrade" will have a noticeable effect. Let's see. But we still need to bring beauty, clean / paint.


P.S.
By the way, while I am thoroughly preparing to restore beauty in everything - with my brother they made it from improvised means and materials, sandblasting.



And almost finished making a camera for him.



But the power of my co///Mpressor turned out to be clearly not enough for sandblasting, even despite the fact that I covered it with BMW emblems and M-stripes)))



Therefore, we had to go further - we bought a more powerful compressor.



And again, improvised tools found in the basement came in handy - an old 200-liter hydraulic accumulator and a 3-phase electric motor.



It remains to assemble - I think it should be the norm and sandblast and paint. But more on that when it all works... I hope... )

P.P.S.
As for painting the car, in connection with this global global ass and quarantine, I don’t even know what to expect in terms of timing and in general .... ((

[The_Glory]

Documentation folder

It often happens that rarities are found and bought absolutely spontaneously and by chance) So this time - the other day somewhere in the comments there was a conversation about regular folders for documentation. I never had it in the E30, just as there was no factory documentation - all the instructions and manuals were lost somewhere in the years .... I have long wanted to assemble such a kit, but somehow put it off for later. Well, taking this opportunity, it was useful to study this issue - according to ETK 2009, two folders were available for European E30 (except M3) - leatherette (01 40 0 031 561) and fabric (01 40 0 031 560). They make their way to the E32. In the more recent ETK, for the E30, another version of the folder breaks through - a newer one. Therefore, apparently, all the same, the folders were not tied to a specific model or body, but simply updated after a certain period of time, went to all models, and could still differ, depending on the market. I think so... Therefore, photos of different versions of these folders are googled by the same number. In general, according to some kind of logic, I found a photo of the oldest options, of those that were - and miraculously, the same folder was found for sale at a flea market at a low price)) Although, it looked so-so, but I bought it, certainly! )
I washed it, treated it with a leather cleaner / conditioner - and it turned out like new;)







As far as I understand, the "ribbed" bend was on the older versions. So, we can say that this folder is ideologically correct for the E30! )) Although on it, except for the BMW logo, there is no original ETK number. For that, there is such an interesting inscription:
BRITISH PATENT 2312185



I don’t know what exactly Britain patented there, but photos of similar folders for other car brands are googled by this number)
Bonus, along with the folder, got a card for the head unit code. Very handy, since I recently received an instruction manual for the radio.



Moreover, it turned out so well - the card turned out to be from the same radio as my instruction - BUSINESS RDS. And no one put a code on it - I'll write my own code, and there will be feng shui! ))





There is a start, now you need to collect the entire set of documentation and put it in a folder - for order! )



P.S.
The same seller had a whole "mass" battery cable in stock, which no one wanted to sell to me separately from the kit - in general, I was lucky! )
And soon I will have another rarity for the E30;)