Turbo 325es: Now with videos

[Regnar75]

umm with the ARP head studs and including the purchase of the motor...around $1400

[Cephas]

Cool build. Thanks for posting! How much has this all cost you?

[Regnar75]

thanks, not sure how to put flickr videos on here so it doesn't redirect you

[KrautnotRice]

Looking very good!

[Regnar75]

Some updates with Videos:

So I made a few changes to the car, first up was some ARP head studs. I got these from Ireland Engineering. I was a bit curious about their description which claimed they were not the normal kit from ARP, but were a "superior kit" this was explained to me in an email from Ireland saying they felt the ARP kit's studs were too short and had a different stud length included in their kit. Here it is.
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^this is the length difference between stock and the IE ARP kit.

Notice the little bit of extra threads on top
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While I was at it, I painted the valve cover a bit differently and really like the look of it.
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I finally got around to putting the "new" driveshaft in. the ujoints are perfect on this one.
unspecified

....Though the old Center support bearing gave me a hard time. even separating the shafts was difficult to say the least. I ended up strapping one half to a telephone pole, and the other to a 1.5 ton come along hooked to my friends pickup and I pulled it apart with the come along.
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This was how the car was driving with 10 PSI (all i could build at the time) with the 3.73lsd. sure it felt quick but I was shifting too much and barely in boost.
VIDEO
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So I found a 3.25lsd for $100 locally, it had upgraded clutch packs but currently whines, so anyone know how to resolve that? otherwise the ratio is great! It's much smoother, I can build a bit higher boost and I dont have to shift as often, its very quick. Though I still am having a hard time not losing traction in 2nd gear even with the 225/50's on 15x8 tires.
VIDEO
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After doing a lot of messing around (hard not to) I did this....
VIDEO
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....and im pretty sure I left a bunch of ball bearings on the side of the road, because there was only 1 bearing left inside...

Here is a 100% accurate depiction of what happened.
VIDEO
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So I replaced that side (I have another shaft to do driver side, just haven't gotten around to it yet.)

and here is how she sits now.
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VIDEO
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More updates to come.

[Regnar75]

while waiting for my exhaust to cool off before working on the car I grabbed some supplies at the hardware store and made a catch can. not the greatest but it'll do for now haha

just a new empty small paint can, two hose barb fittings, two locking nuts with holes for oil to go through, some washers and gasket maker and a cheap breather filter from autozone.


hammered the lid down and decided to wrap some wire around the top to keep it tight, i figure ill just untwist and empty as needed.


total cost, around $15-$20 including breather filter, also better than the coca cola catch can I was using :P

[Regnar75]

A/F meter unfortunately doesn't look too stock and the boost gauge I got with the wide band, eventually I'd like to move to a vdo boost gauge. The wideband is the AEM wideband o2 sensor.

[Regnar75]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=271232

This is who I got the voltmeter and gauge backing plate from. Make sure you specify you want the voltmeter that fits in the oem location, I believe he has two styles.

I also have my reading from the battery terminal in the engine bay that the wiring harness hooks to.

[matias9]

good work , im interested on know where you get the voltage or a/f meter with stock look next to the hazard light in this pic

[Regnar75]

Snow tires on and ready to go.

[Regnar75]

Also how can I change the title?

[Regnar75]

Yea sadly the 2.7i is dead. I was going to boost the previous motor but time constraints meant I just needed a new motor and couldn't pass up a 135k 325i motor for 125$

Thanks everyone! Didn't realize I was coming off apologetic, in actuality I was merely trying to keep people from posting annoying "should have" posts, but I guess that's R3v. I'm very happy with the build so far, but will definitely be changing a few things such as the 3.73lsd for my old 2.93lsd, I'd like to redo the oil drain line which I'm not super happy with although it works for now.

I made the mistake of supplying the crank case with positive pressure and blew the oil drain tube out of its seating and dumped oil pretty badly. I reattached the tube and now I have the TB capped and the VC hose going to an empty coke can (temporary of course)

What do you think about catch cans, rerouting to preturbo or venting to atmosphere? I'm open to suggestions.

[spiDmang]

do what you want, and enjoy the shit out of it. It's crazy, i made a post in this thread back in 2011. Glad you still got her!

[KrautnotRice]

Good stuff!!

[ginger1340]

awesome progress. very inspiring i might add. ive been tossing around the idea of forced induction after i do the e to i swap..