My plastidipped 318is

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  • evandael
    replied
    clunking is likely RSM's, subframe bushings, or the diff mount. i'd do it all.

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  • Codym42
    replied
    Have a few updates:
    My dad and I installed Revshift 95a poly RTABs. They didn't fix my clunking noise but did replace the original bushings which actually didn't look too bad. Also sanded down the ribs on the m42 valve cover and upper intake and got a roof rack. On to pics....






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  • Codym42
    replied
    Originally posted by Nick_S
    You could have wet sanded and buffed your paint back to life a bit, that's the bueaty of single stage red...but, looks good plasti-dipped!
    Thanks man! I actually tried buffing it. Didn't work that well. Then I wet sanded and buffed and it looked pretty good for a while but didn't last very long. Any tips on making it last longer?

    Originally posted by Jboss12
    How many cans of plasti dip did it take? I might have missed you saying it earlier.. Car looks a lot better than I was expecting after reading the title
    I used the pro car kit from dipyourcar.com. They send you a paint sprayer and 3 gallons of paint.

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  • frankenbeemer
    replied
    I came to rag on you, but that's not bad.

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  • Jboss12
    replied
    How many cans of plasti dip did it take? I might have missed you saying it earlier.. Car looks a lot better than I was expecting after reading the title

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  • Blackout
    replied
    I think some people posting in this thread don't know what plasti dip is or how plasti dip really works. It is not paint, it is a synthetic rubber coating that can be peeled off and it does not leave any marks or residue. Good masking skills is all you need, no need to dick with 20 year old trim pieces with fragile plastic clips and grommets.

    All Plasti dips have matte finish. A few coats of plasti dip glossifier can be used if you desire glossy paint-like
    finish.

    Looks like a clean job to me.
    Last edited by Blackout; 05-20-2013, 09:07 AM.

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  • Nick_S
    replied
    You could have wet sanded and buffed your paint back to life a bit, that's the bueaty of single stage red...but, looks good plasti-dipped!

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  • Codym42
    replied
    Originally posted by willworkfore30s
    The plasti-dip will migrate behind any trim pieces a little bit while its still liquid. Removing trim to plasti-dip a car would completely defeat the purpose of the process. IMO Plasti-dipping a whole car is a very legit task when you have the right intentions and conditions. It fits a similar niche to vinyl wrapping a car.

    I think you did a good job on yours. Matte red is always a risky color whether its plasti-dip, paint, or vinyl. Its hard for it not to come out looking slightly oxidized or pinkish. I like yours though. I probably would have gone with a different color myself but it works. I would for sure peel the plasti-dip off the 318is badge.
    Thanks! I'm glad you understand the purpose and why I didn't remove the trim.

    I thought about going with a different color but I really like red. Also, I may peel off the 318 badge. It looks a little off to me as well but my dad seems to like it.

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  • Codym42
    replied
    Originally posted by SlamedIAm
    Close ups of the center console?

    Is the paint that pinkish in person? It looks like old oxidized paint to me.
    Here's my center console. My dad made this a long time ago. We just got a spare e-brake console out of the junkyard, cut some holes, and slid in some cup holder inserts. Works really well for the most part.



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  • willworkfore30s
    replied
    I understand that masking instead of removing things like trim ALWAYS looks worse.
    The plasti-dip will migrate behind any trim pieces a little bit while its still liquid. Removing trim to plasti-dip a car would completely defeat the purpose of the process. IMO Plasti-dipping a whole car is a very legit task when you have the right intentions and conditions. It fits a similar niche to vinyl wrapping a car.

    I think you did a good job on yours. Matte red is always a risky color whether its plasti-dip, paint, or vinyl. Its hard for it not to come out looking slightly oxidized or pinkish. I like yours though. I probably would have gone with a different color myself but it works. I would for sure peel the plasti-dip off the 318is badge.

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  • Codym42
    replied
    Thanks everyone, I'm glad most of you generally liked it. I took these pictures in full sun so it does look slightly more red in person. I know some of you hate plastidip but it was a good option for me since I don't have the money for a real paint job and this is fairly simple to do.

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  • nick123
    replied
    lol at this thread.

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  • R3Z3N
    replied
    Originally posted by nickflic3
    I'm not sure you understand the concept of plastidip lol

    Temp paint that when applied to vehicles, isn't really meant to be a 5 star job. You really don't want rubber welled up behind your trim when the time comes to peal it off
    I understand that masking instead of removing things like trim ALWAYS looks worse.

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  • nickflic3
    replied
    Originally posted by R3Z3N
    Still looks like bad paint IMO.

    Still also sad to see people "painting" things without taking trim and other essentials off.

    Also, the painted badge must go along with the front lip.
    I'm not sure you understand the concept of plastidip lol

    Temp paint that when applied to vehicles, isn't really meant to be a 5 star job. You really don't want rubber welled up behind your trim when the time comes to peal it off



    OP it looks good, just think that a hint of black would have made it clear that the paint is a cover kind of like vinyl; make it look less like "bad paint" and more custom

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  • R3Z3N
    replied
    Originally posted by fourmotioneer
    ^ So how did your car PAX at the autocross from your signature photo?
    Don't know, local events don't bother with PAX generally. I'd much rather do the local stuff with 80 entrants and 13-30 runs than a Regional or National with only 3-5 for the weekend at the same cost.

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