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SLC: 1989 Zinno coupe. Superlight, Super Functional *6spd swap inside*

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  • MarkB
    replied
    Sub'd. Love the roll bar setup.

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  • papa_geza
    replied
    sorry.. double post

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  • papa_geza
    replied
    i admire your work

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  • mitchlikesbikes
    replied
    put my front end back on today. not very pretty but the interior is priority right now. shifter parts should all be here and ready to go this week so i'm going to be doing that as well as working on scuffing the interior for paint. my guys at alacrity machine are trimming my shifter joint and building a bushing for it, since my UUC DSSR wasn't compatible with my original shifter joint. basically my modified joint will be similar to the late late model ones like this, but stronger and with a better bushing (probably UHMW or bronze, depending on what works better when they do the machining.)

    shift joint that i need to be similar to:


    current shift joint that's getting modified:




    aaaand front end pics:




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  • emagdnim33
    replied
    Great build. Keep em coming!!!

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  • mitchlikesbikes
    replied
    spent some time today trimming my seat brackets and cleaning up welds. no pictures of the welds. just kinda smoothed some out and wire wheeled them clean so they're ready for some por15 now. the seat brackets line up better with the front of the floor hump now so that's good. as you can see i'm kind of a perfectionist with an angle grinder:





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  • mitchlikesbikes
    replied
    roll bar: check
    floor patches: check



















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  • mitchlikesbikes
    replied
    Originally posted by DER E30 View Post
    Yup, those things! Yeah, probably unnecessary, but I would just for the bling Stiffer chassis never hurt anybody, or at least stiffer looking
    if i had the die to make the hole things in them i would be more inclined to do them. i think you can buy metal with the beaded holes already pressed in though

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  • DER E30
    replied
    Originally posted by mitchlikesbikes View Post
    like this?:
    honestly i don't really know if they're all that necessary. it would add some extra support and bling though so it's a possibility.
    Yup, those things! Yeah, probably unnecessary, but I would just for the bling Stiffer chassis never hurt anybody, or at least stiffer looking

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  • mitchlikesbikes
    replied
    Originally posted by DER E30 View Post
    Nice work, are you going to make some of those plates that go between the main hoop and the b pillars?
    like this?:




    honestly i don't really know if they're all that necessary. it would add some extra support and bling though so it's a possibility.

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  • DER E30
    replied
    Nice work, are you going to make some of those plates that go between the main hoop and the b pillars?

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  • RocketJohn
    replied
    Great build thread. Keep up the good work!

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  • mitchlikesbikes
    replied
    Got started on the roll bar today :D

    basically we fitted the main hoop then tacked it into place, then welded in floor plates for the rear down bars and cut the downbars to fit. we're gonna be back at it again tomorrow morning, hopefully things will be pretty much finished on the roll bar tomorrow. all thats left is welding the downbars, then putting in the cross bar then after thats done we'll be doing all the patches on the floor.

    floor plate for main hoop welded in:




    main hoop fitted and tacked:



    clearance on the main hoop. we had to do a little "massaging" on the a pillar to make things clear properly. luckily with the way it's fitted i can still access the two bolts for the side windows as well as the seatbelt holes.



    downbars cut to size:



    plates for downbar mounts:




    i will be posting another update tomorrow after more progress!

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  • mitchlikesbikes
    replied
    small update for today

    i built a little bracket out of aluminum to hold my intake in place. the previous owner had a crappy filter that didn't fit and it was basically held in place with zip ties. the ties had it sagging low which is what caused the intake boot to tear really bad, and also the older filter rubbed on the upper radiator hose which isn't good. now with the new bracket and the slightly smaller filter everthing clearances right and the filter sits in a good position to prevent wear on the intake boot.

    i used one of the original air meter holes with an extended bolt and a spacer. the bracket is pretty simple, and is bent slightly to accomodate the angle of the air meter. it mounts to the stock intake/cruise bracket.




    hit it with a quick rattlecan job





    going to be wetsanding and buffing out the runs on the roll bar pieces later today. planning on getting starting on the rollcage with my old man saturday morning;D

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  • serdar255
    replied
    Sweet!

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