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  • s14brent
    replied
    3m seam sealer showed up this morning, here's after with first coat of 3m undercoat spray applied.



    The SRS gas pedal bracket was installed with loctite and clear silicone under each plate.



    The white paint is just for now. I'll end up getting a rattle can of bronzit beige metallic later down the road when things aren't so crazy out, I don't think I want to do a color change. It's such a bitch to do! Future roll bar will probably just get painted black.

    Just super happy that rust spot is gone finally.

    Leave a comment:


  • zwill23
    replied
    Originally posted by s14brent View Post
    Thanks guys! I have plans to build a weld-in roll bar later this month at a friends' shop that ties into the rear strut towers. I really don't know what i want to do interior wise for paint yet. I kind of don't care, but i do at the same time. The struggle.



    actually wire speed had to be surprisingly fast for 16 gauge thickness+.024, heat was set pretty low. Finding the balance was rough for sure. .030 just seems brainless in comparison. I want to practice more on this 110v machine because I want to be able to bring it out remotely to help a few friends with some small jobs. I really wish i bought a welder a long time before I did. It's been so helpful with all the projects.



    i'm using gas - i strongly believe it makes your life easier indeed. side note: seems like gas is more expensive during quarantine, which sucks, i was looking for a 55-60cu tank to use for the 110 unit that i could take on small jobs, going to try to find a 2nd hand bottle on offerup but it might take a while. The 211 is a great machine, a buddy of mine has that model. Another friend has a hobart 140 and it's super reliable as well. I was looking into the 140 for a while until i was given this craftsman machine and i'm stubborn and trying to get it dialed in.
    Awesome, I appreciate the feedback. A new hobart 140 just popped up on market place for a solid discount so looks like my fate has been sold.

    Good luck with the roll bar!

    Leave a comment:


  • s14brent
    replied
    Thanks guys! I have plans to build a weld-in roll bar later this month at a friends' shop that ties into the rear strut towers. I really don't know what i want to do interior wise for paint yet. I kind of don't care, but i do at the same time. The struggle.

    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post

    I use .030" on everything. In fact the MIG setting rarely even change much beyond one notch in the heat and two on wire speed. .020" is a pain as you seen. The heat needs to be really low and slow wire, even then it tends to bubble easily. I find using too much heat/wire and using technique to avoid burning through has better results than being too cold.
    actually wire speed had to be surprisingly fast for 16 gauge thickness+.024, heat was set pretty low. Finding the balance was rough for sure. .030 just seems brainless in comparison. I want to practice more on this 110v machine because I want to be able to bring it out remotely to help a few friends with some small jobs. I really wish i bought a welder a long time before I did. It's been so helpful with all the projects.

    Originally posted by zwill23 View Post

    Are you guys using gas or fluxcore? I'm getting ready to purchase a welder and have come to terms that using gas makes life much easier.
    i'm using gas - i strongly believe it makes your life easier indeed. side note: seems like gas is more expensive during quarantine, which sucks, i was looking for a 55-60cu tank to use for the 110 unit that i could take on small jobs, going to try to find a 2nd hand bottle on offerup but it might take a while. The 211 is a great machine, a buddy of mine has that model. Another friend has a hobart 140 and it's super reliable as well. I was looking into the 140 for a while until i was given this craftsman machine and i'm stubborn and trying to get it dialed in.

    Leave a comment:


  • zwill23
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post

    Usually gas, but have a 110v flux core for remote jobs. I have run miles of wire through my Hobart Handler 190 that I got about 10yr ago. Great machine for the price and Miller parts interchange (only had to replace the trigger connection since ownership). Most MIG's are dual purpose and can do both gas and shielded wire, just have to reverse polarity.
    Good to know on the hobart, I've been told to just get the millermatic 211 but the price is hard stomach. I've heard good things about the hobarts and they seem like great quality for the price point, and it's nice to know they live up to shop work too.

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by zwill23 View Post

    Are you guys using gas or fluxcore? I'm getting ready to purchase a welder and have come to terms that using gas makes life much easier.
    Usually gas, but have a 110v flux core for remote jobs. I have run miles of wire through my Hobart Handler 190 that I got about 10yr ago. Great machine for the price and Miller parts interchange (only had to replace the trigger connection since ownership). Most MIG's are dual purpose and can do both gas and shielded wire, just have to reverse polarity.

    Leave a comment:


  • zwill23
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post

    I use .030" on everything. In fact the MIG setting rarely even change much beyond one notch in the heat and two on wire speed. .020" is a pain as you seen. The heat needs to be really low and slow wire, even then it tends to bubble easily. I find using too much heat/wire and using technique to avoid burning through has better results than being too cold.
    Are you guys using gas or fluxcore? I'm getting ready to purchase a welder and have come to terms that using gas makes life much easier.

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by s14brent View Post

    I used the 110v welder i was given for free. I wanted to try out .024 wire, I'm not sure if I'm a fan. I feel like .030 just works fine even on sheet.
    I use .030" on everything. In fact the MIG setting rarely even change much beyond one notch in the heat and two on wire speed. .020" is a pain as you seen. The heat needs to be really low and slow wire, even then it tends to bubble easily. I find using too much heat/wire and using technique to avoid burning through has better results than being too cold.

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
    Great CAD work!

    I like using poster board.
    Beer cartons work great. Just hard to cut a straight line after drinking them for the box. ;)

    Leave a comment:


  • moatilliatta
    replied
    Great CAD work!

    I like using poster board.

    Leave a comment:


  • mike.bmw
    replied
    Nice rust repair (on both the van and the E30)!

    Leave a comment:


  • s14brent
    replied
    quarantine and boredom forced me to work on the e30!!

    this has been bugging me for quite a while now. been putting it off for a year now.


    not exactly the square patch I thought it'd be


    CAD cutout


    not bad! used 16ga sheet since I have quite a bit leftover from the piece I bought for the van.


    this is where I left off. I need to pick up some seam sealer. (hoping local autozone has some or i'm going to have to order from amazon-not prime). Hoping I can wrap this up at the end of the week.


    I used the 110v welder i was given for free. I wanted to try out .024 wire, I'm not sure if I'm a fan. I feel like .030 just works fine even on sheet.

    Going through a box of parts I found an e39 ps line I accidentally purchased twice. I cut it up to use the 90 degree bend.



    I also added 5mm spacers up front. turns out i was smacking my sway bar with my tire at full lock. I also took the TMS rack limiters and threw on the SLR speed ones I had laying around. I wanted to just see if there was any difference I guess.
    Last edited by s14brent; 04-02-2020, 10:06 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeenyus
    replied
    nice man! this looks fantastic!

    Leave a comment:


  • s14brent
    replied
    trying to keep this to a minimum since it's not e30 related, but i think i'm confident enough to do the rust repair on the e30 now. (which in hindsight is laughable compared to the job i just had to do on the van). found some cancer under the giant front rubber mat thing. It wasn't so bad until i wire wheeled the paint away. the floor was 18ga but I replaced it with 16ga since that's all that they had at hardware stores near me. I wasn't going to drive across town to spend more money on a large sheet of 18. underside has 3m seam sealer over the welded area and 3 coats of 3m undercoat spray. Patch size was 23"x7". I might have a smaller area to do on the van near the driver seat rear mounting bolt, but I'll do that when I figure out if i'm putting in swivel bases or not LOL. but the e30 is going to be a breeze in comparison.

    Leave a comment:


  • s14brent
    replied
    not really an e30 update....but i made the cover photo on e30 drifters fb group LOL



    been busy with the van lately. I even busted out the welder already LOL. I probably won't post too much, but did the oil change, flushed the radiator and the heater core (super nasty stuff but now the van has heat again), changed the TPS, NGK plugs and wires, fixed a vacuum leak, dropped the drive shaft and replaced the transmission output shaft seal and sealed the weep hole on the yoke, replaced the cap & rotor, rewired a new head unit and a few other small things. The engine runs super smooth now. I'm pretty happy with that, and even more happy that there aren't any leaks! This wasn't a complete disaster!!
    I went to a few junkyards across town to get a bunch of brackets or little things like an interior door handle, climate control, gauge cluster bulbs, etc. I also found out quick that a 79' headlight doors aren't anywhere close to 90s even though the body hasn't changed much, i thought if i could wire in the turn signal and maybe open things up a bit for the larger housing everything would bolt right up.. definitely not! but I did score a tube grille (from that 79 at a smaller private owned yard) that I quickly made some brackets for out of 1/8" flat stock I had laying around to make it fit. These stupid things are going for $150ish used from what i've seen in some groups/forums. Local pick and pull yard wants $50 for that sized grille, and all the ones they had were cracked.


    i painted the brackets black before installing. I also painted the headlight "doors" with some leftover vht ceramic silver paint. The grille is basically setup with intercooler brackets. I tried to move it and it shook the whole van LOL!!

    not bad at all for a $20 junkyard grille and everything else was just sourced in my garage LOL. I just have to figure out the upper/lower trim. I'm hoping I can find something similar from a c10 truck at the yard and make it work. I actually really like this for some odd reason.

    I'll be installing a single DRC moto chock and anchors in the van instead of my previous plans. I just need to be able to use this sooner than later and I finally got my classic plates for this thing. I really need to hit this thing with a power washer. I have a laundry list of mods I want to do to this (mostly freshening up suspension/wheels & tires) I was worried about doing the LCA bushings, but moog LCA replacements are $60ea side, but i'll wait to do that after I get some drop spindles for the fronts. Sidenote: I'm not used to SAE sockets. I really need to learn the size that's roughly a 12.5mm, oh and the one thats right under 10mm. guessing that's 3/8? shits weird yo.

    Anyways, thats all. I was planning on posting more pictures, but I'll try to keep it to a minimum on non-e30 content. And hopefully I'll have some e30 updates for you guys' soon.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeenyus
    replied
    HOA = Overpriced Dream Killer

    Leave a comment:

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