Great reply, looks like you have really thought about it and done your research down to the last detail. Well done
look forward to more updates :)
Hello! White late model coupe from the bay
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It takes time, and is quite tedious. Basically just play with different tools and find what works best. Many like to use a grinder, but I didn't have one at the time so I opted for a chisel. Came off quite nicely. Then in the tighter spots I used a dremel with a wire wheel attachment to clean up the coating.
I don't plan to/ want to sell the belts. Too much of a liability issue. While profits could be high due to the demand, the reason I'm not posting a DIY is the same reason I won't sell any. I don't want someone who ghetto rigged some seatbelts have their lawyer come at me causing issues.
I really love the work youve done on this car and I don't know your background.. BUT..
Playing with seatbelts is not something I would be doing unless you have experience repairing belts in a shop/trained to do so..
Would there not be some sort of a special thread that needs to be used as well?
I'm no seatbelt professional, but almost any upholstery shop can handle seatbelt jobs, and I've done my research. I met a local auto upholsterer a while back and asked him a few questions about seatbelts. The thread standard is bonded nylon, which is the strongest thread available. When I was ordering thread, I got both bonded polyester and bonded nylon.
I used #92 bonded nylon thread for these which is quite thick. I think the original is a little thicker; maybe 110 or so. However keep in mind that I sewed in an extra two lines of stitching compared to the factory belts (12 instead of 10), which will easily compensate for the micrometers difference between the two threads.
Nylon is slightly stronger, and has more elasticity than polyester: great for seatbelts. For rest of my upholstery, I'll be using bonded polyester which is similar in strength, but has added UV resistant properties: great for seats.
As far as sewing them, it's really not difficult or different to any other sewing process. I'm using a singer model 99 from the early 60's. It was passed down from a family friend who passed a few years ago. It's really an incredible machine. These old machines can really sew through anything as long as you have a fresh enough motor, correct needle, and thread. Compared to the new models, they're pure tanks. I had no trouble sewing the seatbelts after I found the right tension on the thread.
As far as the reeling mechanisms, they're a piece of cake. There's no rocket science behind them, and I reeled them just as the old ones were installed without disturbing or dismantling the reels at all.
I trust my life in these just as I would my stock seatbelts. Maybe even a little more considering the old ones are 27 years old and the thread seemed to be a little crusty when I was ripping the seams...
Earlier today my friend asked if we could do this in his car (late model civic) and I refused to help, recommending he take it to a shop if he wants something similar done. Safety standards are much higher now than they were 27 years ago. My car lacks airbags, and e30's in general aren't exactly the safest cars on the block; however I'm very confident in my work and feel safe with the end result in my car. If this were a newer car, I wouldn't even touch the belts. But considering all the factors, this was the best option for me and my project. I'll have my auto upholstery friend take a look at them and get his confirmation soon.
Anyway, I guess my point is if you have limited experience with sewing, and a lack of knowledge about the different materials involved; really the best option is to either get real evo 3 seatbelts or have a shop do the belts.
Hope this answered your questions.Leave a comment:
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I really love the work youve done on this car and I don't know your background.. BUT..
Playing with seatbelts is not something I would be doing unless you have experience repairing belts in a shop/trained to do so..
Would there not be some sort of a special thread that needs to be used as well?Leave a comment:
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The seat belts turned out awesome. You should sell a few sets. Also sell me your zender side skirts. Keep up the good work.Leave a comment:
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how hard was it taking off the rock-guard on the lower valences? wood chisel was the best to use?Leave a comment:
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whoa! that's great craftsmanship! I'm always so impressed with the people on rev.Leave a comment:
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This weekends update!
- Changed my oil, only burned half a quart in 4K miles! :D
New bosh filter and castrol oil for another 3-4K.
- Completed the seatbelts! It's not rocket science, as long as you have the right thread, have a machine and needles that can run it, know how to sew, and figure out how to re-reel the belts; it's a piece of cake! Basically, I won't tell you how to do this, as it's a safety concern. If you can't figure it out on your own, it's better you don't mess with a lifesaving safety device. As a precaution, I sewed in an extra line of stitching on the belts to go over the top on their holding strength. I did a test with spare material where I hung up my sewed end and hung/jumped/jerked on it repeatedly without any movement of the stitches. I definitely trust my life in these belts. I decided to salvage the original BMW tags and sewed them in as they came from the factory! Super OEM plus looking!




Then, I went ahead and used some of my suede material for the rear parcel shelf. Unfortunately, it didn't come out perfect to my standards. Attempting to wrap something with very aggressive lines with a material with minimal stretch is very difficult. It took me and a second hand about 2 hours to get it all done. Definitely don't want to do that again anytime soon... In the future I'll find a stretchy suede material and redo it, but for not it'll do!


Everything installed!



I still have to order the plastic seatbelt buckle retaining buttons for the front belts as I wasn't able to salvage them off the old ones without breaking the fine plastic pins. For now I have to reach down for the belt.. Haha.
I should be starting on door panels next weekend if I get a break from studying for finals. For now I'll be practicing my stitches and making mock ups of the bolsters with random fabric I have with similar stretch properties to my fabrics. I'm hoping to have this all done in the next month!Leave a comment:
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Hello! White late model coupe from the bay
Thanks so much Scott! Yes, we definitely have to meet up soon! I would love to check out your office too and see how you run the business!
Feel free to do so! It honestly just completed the dash now that the needles match!
Thank you! These words inspire me to continue with the build and put out more content!
Thanks to everyone for the support and kind words! I really appreciate the time some of you set aside to read my story with the car!
Here's an update for you interior junkies!
My mtech rain thread is here, as you saw from my hint photo. I ordered 4 yards of it to redo my front seats, back seats, and door panels. It's foam backed, beautiful, and ready to go.
My second material (black suede) will be arriving in Friday along with backing foam, upholstery adhesive, and thread. I was deciding on what secondary material I wanted for a while, whether it be suede, cloth, vinyl, etc. But in the end, I opted for suede. I love the feel of it, and I'm fine with the maintenance associated. Plus, nobody sits in my backseat anyway so it won't be hard to keep perfect. I only ordered 4 yards of the suede, but looking back on it I should have went with 5 for extra things like the rear deck and shift/e-break boots. I'll have to place another order then :/
Later today, 20 yards of red seatbelt material will be arriving at my doorstep, which I plan to use for multiple projects including my seatbelts. You'll just have to wait and see what I come up with ;)
Once I get out of bed, (typing this from my phone) I'm heading to my local fabric store for some thicker needles to accept the #92 bonded polyester thread, some sewing machine oil, and a walking foot attachment to help keep everything inline without using a thousand pins. I expect the front seats other than the headrests the be easy, as well as the door cards. The rear seat will be my main challenge, but I'm up to it!
Before I install the interior, I will also be making custom "slider delete" brackets for the driver seat. I love sports seats, but I hate gangsta lean, and there's no way around it being 6'2. I'll draft up some brackets in the perfect spot for myself, and try to get the mounting points for the seat an inch lower. I'll loose the slider, but I'll gain headroom and gauge cluster visibility. I'll still have the recline, and lift/lower features so shorter people still will be able to drive it!
I'll also be re-dying my carpet as the dye has faded slightly under the floor mats... And that bothers me!
I'll have more updates by next week! :)Last edited by Toodaloo; 04-27-2016, 07:06 AM.Leave a comment:
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I could read this build thread all day! :popcorn: Very tasteful, and great attention to detail!Leave a comment:
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you've done a great job with this car. Look forward to seeing it sometime!
Glad to be a part of it!Leave a comment:
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Aah I see! Haha.
Small update: chose from some samples and ordered my secondary fabric! It's not the most practical choice, but it'll definitely stand out!!! I also went ahead and ordered some red seatbelt material (20 yards of it) for a few different projects!
I should be starting on the door cards next weekend! Maybe even playing with the bolsters if I have the chance :)
Took a study break and painted my euro clock needles to match my cluster. Came out pretty great! :)




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