Fantastic build, look forward to monitoring the progress. That drivers seat belt replacement was stiff. Love the color.
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Andrew's Sterlingsilber 90 325iS -> 318iS
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I measured the runout of all the wheels with my new tool. They're all within spec. Of course that's the tires. I can't measure the wheels directly with the tires on them. BMW says maximum runout is 1.6 mm for the Z1/E30 (source) and 1.3 mm (axial) for E36 one-part alloys (source). Max lateral/axial runout on two of the wheels is 1.3 mm, and 1.0 mm and 0.8 mm for the other two. Radial runout are all within 1 mm. So they're pretty straight. I guess the shop did good straightening them.
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This wheel vibration discussion has been very eye opening for me. I've been dealing with it and have taken my wheels to be balanced/road balanced a few times. I am pretty positive it's the mating surface. I have one of those wheels referenced at the end of page 9, so I'll have to clean that surface and I'm almost positive it will fix my vibration around 75 - 80mph.
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Yeah that might help. Have you measured the runout? I got an abrasive wheel from Harbor Freight to use on a drill. It works okay, but honestly sand paper by hand works better. So I sanded the corrosion off each hub, cleaned them off, and then applied Syl-Glide, which I think is close enough to the Plastilube BMW calls for. The wheel shop repaired one of the wheels again and I dropped off the other least straight one because I could still feel some vibration. After I cleaned the hubs I put the most straight ones on the front and I couldn't really feel any vibration driving today.
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Originally posted by Andrew325is View PostYeah, I found those on eBay searching online with the Bosch part numbers. The seller has a whole bunch of NOS Bosch parts. Both are no longer in production as you probably know. The ICVs left are whatever BMW still has in their warehouses.
I bought a new one 13 years ago for $75 or something. Man, $600 now? I thought it was expensive before..
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Originally posted by nando View PostThe M20B25 ICV is basically electrically identical to what's used on the E36 and E46 - PWM, 12v, 3 wires, 99hz - I'll bet you could make one of them work.
I bought a new one 13 years ago for $75 or something. Man, $600 now? I thought it was expensive before..90 Bronzit 325is
16 Black Sapphire 340i M Sport
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Originally posted by nando View PostThe M20B25 ICV is basically electrically identical to what's used on the E36 and E46 - PWM, 12v, 3 wires, 99hz - I'll bet you could make one of them work.
I bought a new one 13 years ago for $75 or something. Man, $600 now? I thought it was expensive before..
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Originally posted by nando View PostI honestly don't think it matters too much. It's just a PWM solenoid. Run it with a resistor if you're worried about it.
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I'd be willing to test it with my MS3. it's already set up to run the M20 valve. I could easily pop an E36 or E46 one in there to see if it still functions the same. I don't have one, but I can ask around.
Plumbing is an easier problem than coming up with $600 for the original ICV for most people. It's good to have options. :)
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Originally posted by Andrew325is View PostYeah that might help. Have you measured the runout? I got an abrasive wheel from Harbor Freight to use on a drill. It works okay, but honestly sand paper by hand works better. So I sanded the corrosion off each hub, cleaned them off, and then applied Syl-Glide, which I think is close enough to the Plastilube BMW calls for. The wheel shop repaired one of the wheels again and I dropped off the other least straight one because I could still feel some vibration. After I cleaned the hubs I put the most straight ones on the front and I couldn't really feel any vibration driving today.
At least now it doesn't feel like my car is going to shake into a million pieces while driving 80+ (standard speed here in UT)
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That's great jeenyus!
Another forum member sold me a brand new Nogaro weave. So nice huh! :)
I read on another forum someone complained about the paint job on the new ones and they're right. Whoever BMW contracted to paint them did a terrible job. They didn't mask off the lip so it's coated with overspray. I guess it doesn't matter so much as long as it's straight though. That's the important thing.
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I measured the runout on the new rim. It looks like it's within spec. The radial runout on the inner rim well is about 0.5 mm, but it looks like it can be up to 0.6 mm. The radial runout on the outer rim well is about 0.3 mm. Lateral runout on both the inner and outer rim well is about 0.2 mm.
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