Dave-gerous E21

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  • Dave-ger
    replied
    Originally posted by LuckyHenriksen
    I love this project man, I just got into E21's myself and have been building one on the cheap. Your project kicks ass!
    thanks man! the E30 in your sig looks really nice by the way. got links for your builds?


    yea, the car is less than 1.5" off the ground at the sub frame with nobody in the car. I'm sure I sag it down a bit on my own, and with Josh, that basically doubles the weight, so I'm sure we were an inch or less off the ground with our combined mass.

    my soft springs are part of why I'm not planning to lower it any more than I already have... but maybe I'll let it down a touch after I wear down my sub frame a little. ;)


    PS: I'm back on my ugly stock wheels, I should have my new tires mounted on the white wheels this week some time.

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  • Jand3rson
    replied
    Originally posted by LJ851
    scraping from low?
    Indeed. But Dave and myself both weigh about 220-230 each, so we were contributing.

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  • LuckyHenriksen
    replied
    I love this project man, I just got into E21's myself and have been building one on the cheap. Your project kicks ass!

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  • LJ851
    replied
    Originally posted by Dave-ger
    Lots of scraping happened.
    scraping from low?

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  • Dave-ger
    replied
    Lots of scraping happened.

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  • Jand3rson
    replied
    Going for a ride in this beast tonight, I'll let you all know how it was when we get back. :up:

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  • Dave-ger
    replied
    Originally posted by imprttuner88
    So much win and trial and error in the thread. I absolutely love it.

    Hopefully RCI makes good on their product, would hate to see a fuel tank slow you down!
    thanks lad, I don't know if they will make good on their product. The AN fittings on it were not tight when I got it, and I found that out the hard way.. after I put fuel in it that is. When I called and talked to them about that, they offered to replace it... however, when I noticed the leak around the sending unit, they told me to talk to summit racing where I bought it since they get such a good deal... anyways, I talked them into sending me new gaskets, and I was going to tighten what turned out to be sheet metal screws in the plastic.. yes, that's right. and while I did that, I just made my own gasket with the appropriate material from the auto parts store. It may still end up leaking though the threads for the studs for the cap assembly like it was before, but there is thread lock on those, so that might stop it.

    Also, the sending unit just has RTV gobbed around it for now. better than nothing even though it's not intended for fuel I guess. the screws are barely snug. I can maybe replace them with bolts, but I have to drill the holes in the cell bigger to do that.


    I'm pretty thoroughly upset with my purchase. I see now why the price seemed so good.

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  • LJ851
    replied
    sheet metal screws into the fuel cell? Is it a plastic 'cell? That doesnt sound very permanent.

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  • imprttuner88
    replied
    So much win and trial and error in the thread. I absolutely love it.

    Hopefully RCI makes good on their product, would hate to see a fuel tank slow you down!

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  • Dave-ger
    replied
    so, I just wanted to share how much I regret buying an RCI fuel cell. it doesn't seal so well around the cap assembly or sending unit. the sending unit turns out to be held on with sheet metal screws, not bolts like I thought, and they are barely snug, and won't tighten any more...

    oh, and here's the fuel cap assembly gasket I replaced with a hand cut one today:



    RCI sucks.

    I'm going to try to get my money back.

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  • Dave-ger
    replied
    Originally posted by Yonkers320is
    looking good, I missing my e21 now. You should post in the e21 section of bimmerforums. Great bunch of e21 owners, and a lot are from Oregon too.
    kind of way late posting, but if anyone else is considering doing something similart to another e21, you can cut the front strut housing and use MK1 rabbit inserts, and if you use Bilstein HD rears you can lower the rear almost 2 1/2 inches......
    I tried posting on bimmerforums and it wouldn't let me, it was weird. whatevs I guess.

    and I do wish I would have used mk1 struts instead of the MR2 ones. I had to grind down the MR2 struts so they'd fit in my strut mounts... oh well. I can always just switch to rabbit struts when I need new ones some day. Also, you won't gain anything with shorter struts on E21's without modifying the sub frame like I did, you'll bind the control arms on it at about the same time you'll bottom out your stock struts.



    LJ, I don't have those specs right now. hopefully I'll remember to get that measurement when I have my car on jack stands the next time. if I can find my reciept, I'm sure I can find the tubing wall thickness. I passed my friend that was going 85 fast enough that he said I came out of nowhere right before my old drive line kinked, so I'm sure that was over 100 MPH. I don't plan on ever driving that fast again, so I should be fine... I also didn't ever intend on passing someone who was going over 80. he sped up right before I went to pass him and I wasn't paying attention to my speed... sometimes you have to learn the hard way. anyways, since I'll probably never drive that fast again, at least in this car, I should be fine.

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  • Yonkers320is
    replied
    looking good, I missing my e21 now. You should post in the e21 section of bimmerforums. Great bunch of e21 owners, and a lot are from Oregon too.
    kind of way late posting, but if anyone else is considering doing something similart to another e21, you can cut the front strut housing and use MK1 rabbit inserts, and if you use Bilstein HD rears you can lower the rear almost 2 1/2 inches......

    Leave a comment:


  • LJ851
    replied
    OK, i found a calculator but it wants to know tubing wall thickness and u joint center to u joint center. Do you have these specs ?

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  • Lof8
    replied
    Damn! I'm not sure how I've missed this for so long. Great work and very cool cars!

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  • Dave-ger
    replied
    ha, sounds like a very personal question!


    but if I remember right, it was 55" and some fraction of an inch in addition. I wish I remembered the exact length. that was the distance from the output seal on the transmission to the adapter flange at the diff. there is about 3/4" of slip shaft showing out of the output shaft just as the drive line guy recommended. I'm pretty sure the diameter is going to be okay, but it would be cool to know that formula. The guy at the drive line shop wasn't going to let anything he didn't think was completely safe leave his shop; I'm glad he had that attitude.

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