What are the FIA specs?
I wouldn't waste your time/money on a PVC mock-up. If you have guys that have experience with building cages and tubular chassis cars, then they should be able to do it no prob. I'd just sketch one up so everybody is on the same page. At least that's what we did and it worked well.
Go for the NASCAR style door bars on the drivers side as pictured in our car. It'll give you some needed room. Ours bows out into the door and actually touches the outer skin.
E30 Rally Build Thread
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If you need any sheet metal designs laser cut, Ill get it to you at a r3v deal.Leave a comment:
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Enough to get the job done. I myself don't have a boatload, but the guys I'll execute the cage with have done several 7.50 certified NHRA cages and a few tube frame car builds. The big challenge will be making sure the design itself meets the FIA spec since that's a new ballgame for us.
The basic plan is to build a PVC cage, get the layout ok'ed by a scrutineer, take a very long time to get everything cut, bent, and tacked together in steel, get the tacked-up version ok'ed by a scrutineer, then pay someone to TIG it up nicely. The key to the cage build will be a very long time scale.Leave a comment:
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I read "DIY Cage." How much cage building experience do you have?
I'd go with at least 100ft of DOM. It's usually sold in 20ft sticks.
Here's the one that we had put in our LeMons car recently:
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I meant to eliminate the sunroof but I see you got a patch with holes in it already. Let me know in the futureLeave a comment:
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If you're volunteering your equipment/services, I hugely appreciate it! I can't think of anything I need to weld in the near future, but there's always something...
Hood pins and shift light showed up today, gonna tackle those tomorrow. Need to thread hunt for which wire is the tach signal, unless someone knows offhand. Have the dash completely out now as well, need to decide whether to flock it or just paint it flat black. Opinions?
Also, can anyone imagine needing the "upper" vent setting in a race situation? I can obviously see defrost being needed, and the lower vents would be used for heat in a winter event, but the upper seems useless without AC. If I ditch it I can use the giant vent holes for gauges/swithces. Thoughts?Leave a comment:
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That project looks like a lot of fun! I would love to do that to my car! Good Luck man!Leave a comment:
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Fantastic project you're working on here - best of luck - will keep an eye out to follow your adventuresLeave a comment:
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Also, if you coat the inside of your roof with a heat insulating rubberizer, it will prevent the roof from radiating heat into the car.Leave a comment:
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I'm trying different variants of silver for the roof as well as aome clear coats for the aluminum panel. If it ever warms up here I'll try a sun exposure surface temp comparison to satisfy my engineerish leanings.Leave a comment:
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I like the exercise mat in the passenger area.
and vacuum up dem dang pool ball shavings!!
It is looking waaay better though. Keep it up!
Also, painting your roof white will reflect the maximum amount of incident radiaton, that is, maximum short of chrome plating your roof.Leave a comment:
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Quick update. It turns out that 9/16" hardware is harder to find than most other standard sizes. Ended up actually going to a HW store to find some. Once I did, I filed a flat in the bottom of my pool ball and indexed it with a jam nut. To avoid cutting my hand on the threads, I heat shrinked (shrunk?) the rest of them. Here's the final result:
Also, here's a sneak peek at the state of my sunroof patch:
I'm currently experimenting with coatings. I also remembered (okay, Sam remembered) that it would be smart to apply a roof vent prior to applying the roof. So today I ordered an aluminum 10" by 4" 2-way vent from a van supply store. That will get added, the existing roof will get painted a color TBD, the patch will get painted, and then the whole thing will get ~150 rivets and be done. Also, my hood pins are waiting in the mailbox and might be installed this weekend.Leave a comment:

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