Seeking Sage Wisdom for 325e

[DaButt]

come on, someone help a brother out!

[DaButt]

So... failure.

I'm sad to report that I excitedly attempted to put my TMS chip in last night, only to discover the old one was soldered in. When I reassembled everything, put the DME back inot the car, no start. (Yes I re-connected the battery), the starter was going all day long, but no spark or fuel (that I could hear)...

I'm thinking of getting charger and trickle charging the battery, but it still bugs me... what would make my battery go like that? I didn't have the interior lights on while I was doing any of this. I disconnected the batt, took the DME inside, reassembled the DME, put it in, then splat... why would it do that?

[DaButt]

Funny, everyone (including you) seems to be ignoring those pesky check panel lights. Those seem like a great way to get to know your car better. Start with, say, the washer fluid one. It's just a simple circuit. Either a wire is cut/disconnected or the sensor in the tank is hung up or faulty. Easy fix.

Which brake lights warning is on? On the check panel or in the cluster?

Try removing the brake light bulbs and cleaning the contacts then reinstalling.

I'm with you. I'm generally not the type to "ignore" things the car is telling me. But sometimes it's a legitimate hypochondriac. Like the Check Brake Lights (on the check panel). The maintenance folder I have goes back to the original owner in 84. It's been a problem since then. They've replaced just about everything on that joker that has to do with the check panel, and it always came back on a little while later. When I press the brake pedal or go revers, the brake lights come on, that's what I need it to do.

I'm ultimately more concerned about the engine, tranny, cooling system, etc. on this car.

What catches my eye is how the woman who owned it brought it in time and again with the "brake lights" check panel problem, and at least once there is documentation of the "owner declining the timing belt and water pump replacement, despite being warned of the potential consequences.

So if you see these two things in your car, you have to prioritize, the check panel light's not going to cannibalize the car, a failed timing belt may very well do so. Hence, my priorities are/were: 1. major points of failure
2. Everything else.

It's a 27 year old car, the computer's not going to be perfect, and I'm ok with that.

**Edit: After reading my post, it sounds a little flippant. Not my intention. I DO appreciate the advice, but I was just trying to share my train of thought with the group.

*** 2ND Edit- And I did pull a washer fluid res. and the sensor- replaced and sensor is functioning! Saved me money. Love it.

[ForcedFirebird]

Funny, everyone (including you) seems to be ignoring those pesky check panel lights. Those seem like a great way to get to know your car better. Start with, say, the washer fluid one. It's just a simple circuit. Either a wire is cut/disconnected or the sensor in the tank is hung up or faulty. Easy fix.

Which brake lights warning is on? On the check panel or in the cluster?

Try removing the brake light bulbs and cleaning the contacts then reinstalling.

+1

More than once, I found myself putting the reverse bulb in the rear driving light spot to get home after the check panel illuminated.

[BoostinEuros]

Very nice car! It's in beautiful condition. What area of west Georgia are you in? I'm a west Georgian myself!

[dogsbark26]

Funny, everyone (including you) seems to be ignoring those pesky check panel lights. Those seem like a great way to get to know your car better. Start with, say, the washer fluid one. It's just a simple circuit. Either a wire is cut/disconnected or the sensor in the tank is hung up or faulty. Easy fix.

Which brake lights warning is on? On the check panel or in the cluster?

Try removing the brake light bulbs and cleaning the contacts then reinstalling.

[Teaguer]

So in the interest of simplicity, I should stick with an e30 LSD.... which are direct replacement parts.... ??

Its just as easy ...just not unbolt and bolt in the new one.
The cover and stub axles can be swapped over from your current diff. Easy as pie.

With an Eta the onle Eta available ratios are the 2.79 and the 2.93 so anything else from an e3o will be too short of a gear.
The 3.25 is a great ratio and is about the shortest you want while still having an Eta valvetrain.

[DaButt]

So in the interest of simplicity, I should stick with an e30 LSD.... which are direct replacement parts.... ??

[ForcedFirebird]

This is tru of most e30 diffs but the 3.25 is from an e28 or e24.
This will require the additional steps of swapping the cover and stub axles over from the e30 diff.

True. I was assuming he would be buying one from the forums since he's shopping for bumpers here as well.

[Teaguer]

It's pretty self-explanatory. Remove yoke bolts, remove axle bolts, remove diff-to-subframe bolts, remove diff bushing bolt, installation is reverse.

This is tru of most e30 diffs but the 3.25 is from an e28 or e24.
This will require the additional steps of swapping the cover and stub axles over from the e30 diff.

[ForcedFirebird]

It's pretty self-explanatory. Remove yoke bolts, remove axle bolts, remove diff-to-subframe bolts, remove diff bushing bolt, installation is reverse.

[DaButt]

Are all the diffs available for e30s direct replacement parts?? I see the 3.25 recommended a lot. Is there a DIY write-up for diff swapping?

[Bearmw]

Lighing upgrades are great bang for your buck. Start with headlights; maybe H1/H4. Can also make your rear lights brighter (search). Interoir lighting can also be improved.

For performance I would simply do the chip and a 3.25 diff and then do some mild suspension mods without dropping it much. I would also probably go with euroweaves with a decent 205 width tire.

You have a nice blank canvas but I would enjoy the torque and economy of a mostly stock Eta. I would consider reinforcing certain structural areas such as door hinge, trailing arm sway bar attachment, and so on. Also do some preventative maintenance and address areas that tend to rust on our cars over time such as around the license plate lights, the fuel line cover in the RR wheel well, and make sure all body drains function perfectly, etc.

I would do a few body cosmetic mods last.

Have fun.

[illest318i]

Great purchase man!!
And don't tuck the bumpers get a swap instead..

[DaButt]

John, check.

I can select gears while at a standstill w/o clutch. Haven't tried (had the balls to try) it while moving. I love the thing, I just KNOW the bushings are getting sloppy and shitty on me.

Any YES! the mother's clay literally made my car's paint feel like glass. Amazing.

And the color of the new boots (if I decide to pursue it) will be black, just in leather instead. what i'd really like to find is the M stitching gear lever boot.

And is shifting without the clutch an advisable practice?? Doesn't seem like it would be... but i'm not a doctor.

Discuss.