325ic Calypso Euro Conversion - Houndstooth & dbilas now, MT1 & MM 3.2 stroker coming

[bradnic]

Here's a preview of the hardtop bonus. It certainly looks legit - it even has the same OEM convertible top clamp brackets from the car built in to it. But I can't find a record of that part number anywhere. I don't have my e30 accessories catalog to look through, and I can't remember where I've seen OEM versions of these racks before. Besides there are a couple of decent aftermarket carts out there readily available for < $150 shipped, or even better just setup an overhead lift for the top. Cool novelty factor though

UPDATE: Turns out there are TWO rack systems in this pile, one of them a 7 piece stand stand pictured in the catalog below, the other a 2 piece wall mount setup that looks like a bed frame. MANY thanks to @jeffnhiscars for helping me figure it out :-). Of course my hardtop storage cover won't work with the storage rack, and the storage cover you need is NLA. You win some...

So yes as @jeffnhiscars said, it's definitely OEM. Found this in a 1991 US accessories catalog. The part number matches the label.


[url=https://flic.kr/p/WbTna4]

EDIT: Note there's a different number for the hardtop cover listed in the US catalog. It's in fact a different cover than that shown on realoem and in the German hardtop winch post earlier.

[c0rbin9]

You need this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-parts/clutch-pedal-rubber-pad/35211108634~feb/

Quantity: Two (2)

[SkiFree]

Very cool, looking forward to watching your progress on this. I have NEVER seen a hardtop storage rack.

[bradnic]

You need this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-parts/clutch-pedal-rubber-pad/35211108634~feb/

Quantity: Two (2)

ha cool to see that.. actually have already replaced my clutch and brake pedal rubber with new bits. go pedal looks a bit dated..

Very cool, looking forward to watching your progress on this.

thanks for stopping by! been following your 02/M20 build for a long time. looking forward to your help with the stroker bits too.

She's a cruiser, heavy and comfortable. but:
- I def want more torque, and am def going 3.1.

- the dbilas ITBs are staying despite their definitely killing midrange torque over the stock manifold, cam and displacement. I can't even drop the clutch and smoke the tires anymore. HP seems to be up though. She pulls well above 4500.

- Want to keep her civilized, especially smooth idle. I'll def xbrace and strut tower brace the front end, put some bigger brakes on her. I'm never gonna track her though.

I have NEVER seen a hardtop storage rack.

me neither! was genuinely shocked seeing it when it came with @MPoser's new vert. It was also cool to verify it was OEM through the accessories catalog. even more shocking - there were TWO storage racks in the pile, the 2nd a wall mounted version.

[bradnic]

Been chasing electrical gremlins today.

DRIVER LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT
Has been refusing to turn on intermittently, ever since before last year's vintage. Cool thing is the check panel low beam warning light reliably tells you if the lamp isn't on. On the way back from the Vintage it turned off permanently. Checked bulb and HID ballast by swapping with right side. both were fine. Swapped out the K4 relay. No change.

Finally went back to check fuse 13 (LH low beam) and sure enough fuse was dead. Replaced and working now, but this can't be the root cause. Will check euro smiliey wiring mods and grounds again but I don't think I'll find anything. Will just have to wait for it to start failing intermittently again I suppose.

Other issues I'e been experiencing:
WASHER SYSTEM WAS NOT PUMPING FLUID. was working perfectly then stopped working.

BRAKE LIGHT CHECK PANEL LIGHT WAS STAYING ON. intermittently stays on. assume it's related to the 3rd brake light which I'm getting rid of. Will try a resistor across the terminals.

TURN SIGNAL CHECK PANEL WARNING WHEN LIGHTS WERE ON. If I used the right turn signal when the headlights were on this warning light would come on.

NONE OF THESE PROBLEMS PRESENT NOW! afaik I haven't done anything other that swap the K4 relay and disassemble the driver side headlight assy.

Most of this be some related ground or power distro issue in the engine bay. The brake light warning issue is likely separate, and like I've written before I'm swapping the deck lid out anyway so I'll deal with it later.

[e30rapidic]

Been chasing electrical gremlins today.

BRAKE LIGHT CHECK PANEL LIGHT WAS STAYING ON. intermittently stays on. assume it's related to the 3rd brake light which I'm getting rid of. Will try a resistor across the terminals.

easier fix is to jump across the two green/black wires at the 3rd brake light wiring harness. You can disconnect the plug behind the trunk side carpet, up by the antenna. This bypasses/tricks the active check system into thinking the 3rd brake light is working as intended. That's how mine is set up.

Good luck with the other bits, hope they're all easy fixes!

[kronus]

DRIVER LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT
Has been refusing to turn on intermittently, ever since before last year's vintage. Cool thing is the check panel low beam warning light reliably tells you if the lamp isn't on. On the way back from the Vintage it turned off permanently. Checked bulb and HID ballast by swapping with right side. both were fine. Swapped out the K4 relay. No change.

Finally went back to check fuse 13 (LH low beam) and sure enough fuse was dead. Replaced and working now, but this can't be the root cause. Will check euro smiliey wiring mods and grounds again but I don't think I'll find anything. Will just have to wait for it to start failing intermittently again I suppose.

I had a similar problem and tore my hair out for a while. Turned out to be real dumb.

[bradnic]

easier fix is to jump across the two green/black wires at the 3rd brake light wiring harness. You can disconnect the plug behind the trunk side carpet, up by the antenna. This bypasses/tricks the active check system into thinking the 3rd brake light is working as intended. That's how mine is set up.

thanks Andre. def planning to do this when I swap deck lids and lose the brake light wart. in the interim the brake light check panel warning did come back on once while driving this afternoon. Parked and restarted the car - gone again.

Good luck with the other bits, hope they're all easy fixes!

Thanks. More annoying than anything really. Swapping out the low beam K4 relay and replacing what looked like a good fuse 13 solved the headlight issue. washer pump and headlamp washers are working again.

As of right now everything is working correctly again.

I had a similar problem and tore my hair out for a while. Turned out to be real dumb.

ouch kronus! damn. that would have taken a while to track down. only sign would have been a consistent blown fuse. lesson learned for all of us I think - the engine bay gets hot. wondering - did you have the cover over the headlight area at the time or was it open?

[kronus]

Yeah, I run the covers.

[pandaboo911]

Solder doesn't melt until 300F, no way the engine bay is getting that hot. Probably down to higher wattage bulbs or resistance in the connections

[bradnic]

Good call - thanks for chiming in

[bradnic]

all the MT1 bits are done now except the front valance. still need to build a tool to prep the triple slots.

[DRVN2WN]

Nice! Have you mounted the angled tip Stromung? If you posted it elsewhere I've likely missed it since I've not been on the forums in a bit.

[bradnic]

not yet. parts storage is seriously out of control lol. can't wait to start the stroker phase either, but I don't dare do it til all the other pending stuff is settled.

my garage and basement are a complete mess. #wifepatientbutimonborrowedtime

[bradnic]

Flickr test
Short URL they provided

https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak

BBCODE provided (modified with curly braces, highlighted in blue to show the different parts

{left bracket}url=https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak]{left bracket}img]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/36374330385_ed79fd5198_b.jpg[/img][/url]{left bracket}url=https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak]callie-shadowline europaint[/url] by {left bracket}url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/bradn/]bradn[/url], on Flickr

Parsing all that stuff:

includes this Link to the picture page: {left bracket}url=https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak]
and this Link to a 1024 wide static image: {left bracket}img]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/36374330385_ed79fd5198_b.jpg[/img]
followed by the end of the URL tag, so if you click on the pic it takes you to the Flickr page[/url]

there's also this
Caption with link back to Flickr page pic name and Flickr user name: {left bracket}url=https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak]callie-shadowline europaint[/url] by {left bracket}url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/bradn/]bradn[/url], on Flickr

if you paste the Flickr straight short URL as IMG you get this:


If you paste the short Flickr URL as URL you get this:
https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak

If you paste the Flickr BBCODE as IMG
[IMG]callie-shadowline europaint by bradn, on Flickr[/IMG]

If you just straight paste the Flickr BBCODE directly you get what Flickr wants you to share
callie-shadowline europaint by bradn, on Flickr

If you just paste the Flickr static image part as IMG, without the URL link back to Flickr, you get this


That's great, but it's not what Flickr wants you to do.