Garagistic had their x-brace and strut bar on sale so I finally pulled the trigger.
OMG what a difference in handling and suspension.
Had to heat and bend the strut bar a bit to clear the dbilas plenum, but it turned out great.
Still need to get the front mtech1 apron finished.
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325ic Calypso Euro Conversion - Houndstooth & dbilas now, MT1 & MM 3.2 stroker coming
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Wow, beautiful build. I love the colour, looking forward to seeing the MT1 kit in calypso!
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Flickr test
Short URL they provided
BBCODE provided (modified with curly braces, highlighted in blue to show the different parts
{left bracket}url=https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak]{left bracket}img]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/36374330385_ed79fd5198_b.jpg[/img][/url]{left bracket}url=https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak]callie-shadowline europaint[/url] by {left bracket}url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/bradn/]bradn[/url], on Flickr
Parsing all that stuff:
includes this Link to the picture page: {left bracket}url=https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak]
and this Link to a 1024 wide static image: {left bracket}img]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/36374330385_ed79fd5198_b.jpg[/img]
followed by the end of the URL tag, so if you click on the pic it takes you to the Flickr page[/url]
there's also this
Caption with link back to Flickr page pic name and Flickr user name: {left bracket}url=https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak]callie-shadowline europaint[/url] by {left bracket}url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/bradn/]bradn[/url], on Flickr
if you paste the Flickr straight short URL as IMG you get this:
If you paste the short Flickr URL as URL you get this:
https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak
If you paste the Flickr BBCODE as IMG
[IMG]callie-shadowline europaint by bradn, on Flickr[/IMG]
If you just straight paste the Flickr BBCODE directly you get what Flickr wants you to share
callie-shadowline europaint by bradn, on Flickr
If you just paste the Flickr static image part as IMG, without the URL link back to Flickr, you get this
That's great, but it's not what Flickr wants you to do.Last edited by bradnic; 08-04-2017, 02:18 PM.
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not yet. parts storage is seriously out of control lol. can't wait to start the stroker phase either, but I don't dare do it til all the other pending stuff is settled.
my garage and basement are a complete mess. #wifepatientbutimonborrowedtime
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Nice! Have you mounted the angled tip Stromung? If you posted it elsewhere I've likely missed it since I've not been on the forums in a bit.
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Solder doesn't melt until 300F, no way the engine bay is getting that hot. Probably down to higher wattage bulbs or resistance in the connections
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Originally posted by e30rapidic View Posteasier fix is to jump across the two green/black wires at the 3rd brake light wiring harness. You can disconnect the plug behind the trunk side carpet, up by the antenna. This bypasses/tricks the active check system into thinking the 3rd brake light is working as intended. That's how mine is set up.
Originally posted by e30rapidic View PostGood luck with the other bits, hope they're all easy fixes!
As of right now everything is working correctly again.
ouch kronus! damn. that would have taken a while to track down. only sign would have been a consistent blown fuse. lesson learned for all of us I think - the engine bay gets hot. wondering - did you have the cover over the headlight area at the time or was it open?
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Originally posted by bradnic View PostDRIVER LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT
Has been refusing to turn on intermittently, ever since before last year's vintage. Cool thing is the check panel low beam warning light reliably tells you if the lamp isn't on. On the way back from the Vintage it turned off permanently. Checked bulb and HID ballast by swapping with right side. both were fine. Swapped out the K4 relay. No change.
Finally went back to check fuse 13 (LH low beam) and sure enough fuse was dead. Replaced and working now, but this can't be the root cause. Will check euro smiliey wiring mods and grounds again but I don't think I'll find anything. Will just have to wait for it to start failing intermittently again I suppose.
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Originally posted by bradnic View PostBeen chasing electrical gremlins today.
BRAKE LIGHT CHECK PANEL LIGHT WAS STAYING ON. intermittently stays on. assume it's related to the 3rd brake light which I'm getting rid of. Will try a resistor across the terminals.
Good luck with the other bits, hope they're all easy fixes!
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Been chasing electrical gremlins today.
DRIVER LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT
Has been refusing to turn on intermittently, ever since before last year's vintage. Cool thing is the check panel low beam warning light reliably tells you if the lamp isn't on. On the way back from the Vintage it turned off permanently. Checked bulb and HID ballast by swapping with right side. both were fine. Swapped out the K4 relay. No change.
Finally went back to check fuse 13 (LH low beam) and sure enough fuse was dead. Replaced and working now, but this can't be the root cause. Will check euro smiliey wiring mods and grounds again but I don't think I'll find anything. Will just have to wait for it to start failing intermittently again I suppose.
Other issues I'e been experiencing:
WASHER SYSTEM WAS NOT PUMPING FLUID. was working perfectly then stopped working.
BRAKE LIGHT CHECK PANEL LIGHT WAS STAYING ON. intermittently stays on. assume it's related to the 3rd brake light which I'm getting rid of. Will try a resistor across the terminals.
TURN SIGNAL CHECK PANEL WARNING WHEN LIGHTS WERE ON. If I used the right turn signal when the headlights were on this warning light would come on.
NONE OF THESE PROBLEMS PRESENT NOW! afaik I haven't done anything other that swap the K4 relay and disassemble the driver side headlight assy.
Most of this be some related ground or power distro issue in the engine bay. The brake light warning issue is likely separate, and like I've written before I'm swapping the deck lid out anyway so I'll deal with it later.
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Originally posted by c0rbin9 View PostYou need this:
Quantity: Two (2)
Originally posted by SkiFree View PostVery cool, looking forward to watching your progress on this.
She's a cruiser, heavy and comfortable. but:
- I def want more torque, and am def going 3.1.
- the dbilas ITBs are staying despite their definitely killing midrange torque over the stock manifold, cam and displacement. I can't even drop the clutch and smoke the tires anymore. HP seems to be up though. She pulls well above 4500.
- Want to keep her civilized, especially smooth idle. I'll def xbrace and strut tower brace the front end, put some bigger brakes on her. I'm never gonna track her though.
Originally posted by SkiFree View PostI have NEVER seen a hardtop storage rack.
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