Joey's iS

[DIIRTY-30]

Doing an awesome job since picking her up! That car needed a good owner.

Good work Joey

[JinormusJ]

someone said lachssilber crew?

Also fixed my brake lining light and ABS light. Officially cruising without lights on my dash. EVERYTHING WORKS!

For the brake lining, there is a resistor located within the cluster itself that is located behind the temp gauge (inside the cluster itself) that is the Brake lining resistor. Because the brake lining resistor carries a lot of current, the solder joints inside the cluster tend to crack with age and vibration from the car. All you need to do is reflow the joints, and, as long as your sensors are good and you don't have any shorts, your brake lining light will regain normal functionality.

To demonstrate, here is an extra cluster backing I have sitting around:


The green circle represents where the temp gauge is located.
The red circles demonstrate where the two solder joints need to be re-flowed. As you can tell, the joint in the circle to the right is completely cracked, a common cause of pre-mature Brake Lining light appearing


For the ABS sensor, I saw this write up, and fair enough, when I took my ABS relay out, that little disable link was blown.

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112932

So following the essence of the writeup, I wired an external fuse holder found at any AutoParts store for about $3



Instead of wiring the pegs together INSIDE the relay, I mounted the wires and Fuse holder outside of the ABS Relay and drilled holes in the main metal housing to mount it externally. I used a stock 7.5a BMW fuse to top it off, and fair enough, when I first wired in the modified relay, the fuse blew due to a short, proving my system works better than the stock relay. A few modifications to the solders and a new fuse means my ABS light is off, and I am enjoying functioning ABS


A picture before:



And after:

(in ignition)


(after starting)





Oh, and an airbag-bolster-in-a-non-airbag-car-retrofit for the ladies


(+New black sport seats that actually work, fall, and rise)

[Herr Faust Schinken]

Long lost bro-mo's? LACHSSILBER KREU! :)
I see our cars looking very similar once mines finished

Also.. Now that I finally come to personally own an iS lip... I see how ugly the plow plow Volvo lip is. I can't believe I ever thought the Volvo lip looked good.

I've seen the light

someone said lachssilber crew?

[JinormusJ]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=241600

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...2510199&page=1

There are a few mentions and discussions

[benyen soljax]

I know a lot of guys use diesel oil for their motorcycles since its so cheap and does a lot of the same stuff as "motorcycle oil". Never heard it used on a car though. Do you have any references?

[JinormusJ]

Oil change today

Decided to get a little unconventional and use diesel oil for the extra ZDDP additives that our old m20 e30s desperately crave.

Used Dino (Conventional) Mobil Delvac 15w40 with a the Bosch 3421 filter.


Compared to the grime that was in there fr the PO, I instantly felt a difference in the engine performance on start up, idle, and WOT. Would recommend using Diesel Oil/Amsoil over leading Mobil 1/Valvoline oils. I've used all of them, and I've got to say, this has been the most dramatic oil change I've had so far. The former all have at least 1600 PPM of ZDDP which is almost double the amount any other oil company has, including Valvoline VR1 which comes in around 800 (which is still more than most brands, but is still mediocre compared to Diesel Oils/Amsoil)

With Mobil Delvac coming in at $17 for 5 quarts, you almost can't beat it

Gotta get dat ZDDP!

[JinormusJ]

Long lost bro-mo's? LACHSSILBER KREU! :)
I see our cars looking very similar once mines finished

Also.. Now that I finally come to personally own an iS lip... I see how ugly the plow plow Volvo lip is. I can't believe I ever thought the Volvo lip looked good.

I've seen the light

[IRON-E]

Thanks E

If I squint really hard, it almost looks like the Iron-e30 haha :-P

Dude, I swear it looks like my car's clone.

[JinormusJ]

Thanks E

If I squint really hard, it almost looks like the Iron-e30 haha :-P

[IRON-E]

Good work brosky :up:

[JinormusJ]

Slowly but surely
I'm sourcing the last bits of my 5-speed; it WILL be done by the middle of August. After that, I can start looking for some coilovers and looking for some of the BBSes


Slowly but surely

[benyen soljax]

Looking good. I was hoping you would put up a picture of your car with the bbs wheels. Color me disappointed. I got my 5 speed swap done so you need to get on that! I've never even worked on an e30 before so you have no excuse!

[JinormusJ]

So I finally had time to pass by my buddy's shop to get my lip painted with the Lachssilber Paintscratch.

Test fit


Yoska ended up having these cool goodies in his shop (sorry for the horrible pictures, my camera is all scratched up on my iPhone)

BBS RSes


S54B32



BOOM



Came out pretty well. Paint isn't an exact match, but its pretty close, and my valence is super faded and old, so the paint is pretty different than stock aswell. Need to find time to bang out the valence and get all the waves out of my lip

[JinormusJ]

M20 is dying.

Every day I feel like its putting out less and less power. Yesterday I just filled it up with 1.5 quarts of oil at 4000 miles (which, coincidently, I'm due for an oil change sometime soon anyway). My previous M20 only burned oil at .5 quarts every 6000, which means im burning oil like a mother(or at least, at a rate I am not happy with). Cold/morning starts are something my current m20 is not a fan of and will stutter/bog whenever power is put down for the first few moments of taking off; midday cold starts are no problem, but stone-cold starts suck. Plus, I have to floor it just to keep up to a Corolla; my previous m20 took Corollas all day. (and had extensive engine work done with receipts to prove legitimacy of proper maintainence)

Sokay..

Thinking about refurbishing a budget 2.7i build and swapping out this tired m20. If I have to live with this m42-like power in an m20 weight car, I will not be enjoying my future with this e30. Sorry to blow you m42 guys out of the water, but 100whp sucks, period. I have to romp my car just to keep up in traffic. I'm thinking a 2.7i build wouldn't be too expensive as I'll be do the work myself/know people that would hook me up and can be an attainable swap by next spring.

This isn't my "final" swap I have for this car, but I can't live with this dying m20 anymore, so I will be swapping it soon. I figured a 2.7i would be a decent budget swap that will give me a little more power to satisfy me until I reach the final goal.


What I've gathered so far (basic knowledge of a 2.7i build) is the one option that would be the way to go for a $1k budget build:
2.7i block
2.5i head
2.5i intake
173 ECU

From what I understand, the only difference in a 2.7i from a normal 2.5i m20 is the eta bottom end. I am assuming a 2.7i is exactly the same as a 2.5i m20 except for the complete eta bottom end. I'm assuming the rest of the engine is 2.5i build. The more I research this topic, the more the answer becomes less and less clear cut because there are so many options. I'm finding it hard to get a definitive answer without asking questions from my understanding.
Any thoughts r3v?

[JinormusJ]

This came straight from Blunt today