Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

[pandaboo911]

Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

Swapped the idle valve, sure enough the old one was completely locked up.. wtf? Corrosion maybe idk



It’s idling a little high, 1000rpm, but that might be the tune idk. I’ll investigate that later.

I experimented with the aluminum brazing rod and had some success. I started with the compressor housing, but my propane torch was not nearly hot enough to work.

The compressor housing is about 10mm thick where I’m trying to tack it. I went and bought a map gas torch, which turned out to be really fucking hot haha.

Using this method is pretty tricky. You have to get the whole part up to temperature to cook off any oils and then focus on one spot, otherwise all the heat will sink out immediately. I melted the cast elbow slightly in one spot
It’s ugly, but the result is good enough.



Obviously this is just so I can take it to a professional welder and have them finish it. The space where this elbow goes is pretty tight and I didn’t want to risk having it welded fully and then not fitting.

[rzerob]

Glad to see the aluminum rods work to some extent.

[pandaboo911]

Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

Pro tip: make sure your shit is torqued before going on a test drive. [emoji51]

[Motheye99]

Pro tip: make sure your shit is torqued before going on a test drive. [emoji51]

did you blow off your BOV? ouch.

[jeenyus]

it was probably those damn unicorns poking holes in your engine.

[pandaboo911]

did you blow off your BOV? ouch.

Wastegate rattled itself loose. :(

[pandaboo911]

Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

New fuel pump


Walbro GSS340, fits without cutting anything

Rewiring some stuff


Need a new wideband, sensor on my lc-1 crapped out. Debating between the AEM x series or the innovate MTX. There doesn’t seem to be much difference besides cost. Both use the Bosch 4.9

Leaning toward the aem right now since I don’t particularly like the LC-1 I have

[pandaboo911]

Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

Huh so that’s what it’s supposed to look like


Turns out the one that flew off actually had the valve seat missing. I didn’t know it should have one, maybe that’s why it came off? I bought it used so maybe the previous owner lost it

The seat actually centers it too.



Gonna try and use the water cooling ports on the wastegate cause why not. Problem is my engine only has 2 ports in the head and both are being used.

Anyone know if the coolant drain bolt can be used as a supply? I have the throttle body heater line that returns into the big coolant pipe. So I just need a coolant supply. I figure if the water is pumped from the front of the engine toward the back then I ought be able to use the coolant drain port as a coolant supply no?

I have read of people using the drain as a return but that doesn’t seem to make sense to me

[Pootis]

The fire ring would just make it bleed boost off so I don't think that would be the case (I ran mine once without the firing ring and had no boost). I don't know what would have caused it to explode like that. It is like it was over pressurized.

[pandaboo911]

The fire ring would just make it bleed boost off so I don't think that would be the case (I ran mine once without the firing ring and had no boost). I don't know what would have caused it to explode like that. It is like it was over pressurized.

The top came off because it crashed into the pavement lol. Not sure how the wastegate came off the header though. Maybe the nut on the v-band was not a locknut, dunno

[dadsbmw]

Hey man, just read through this whole build, very badass! I'm in the midst of an S52 swap so I'm hoping you don't mind if I come to you with questions!

[pandaboo911]

Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

Hey man, just read through this whole build, very badass! I'm in the midst of an S52 swap so I'm hoping you don't mind if I come to you with questions!

Thanks! Feel free to shoot me some questions. I see you’re local so maybe see you around haha.

I got the charge piping finished up, went pretty smoothly. I brought it to my buddy mostly mocked up and he welded it for me.

The intercooler needed tight radius bends so I used the cast elbows on either side.







I managed to squeeze in a 16” puller fan. I had to cut the threads off the water pump. Just barely fits in there with the koyorad. There’s like 1/16th of an inch between the fan and water pump so I might do something to stiffen up the radiator mounts, the stock radiator bracket doesn’t work well with the koyorad so it flops around a bit.



New afr gauge confirms my old one was bad. It was reading extremely lean. I did read up on how to properly install a wideband so that it doesn’t turn on until the engine is started. My previous install powered it up when the key was in run, and the sensor would start heating before engine start. I read this kills sensors quickly because the thermal shock from starting a cold engine cracks the sensing element.

New gauge is powered by a relay that’s switched when the oil pressure switch opens up. Hopefully this sensor lasts a bit longer.

Car idles nicely around 14.5-15.5 AFR and gets down to around 10.8 in boost.



One other thing I noticed is the BOV is cracked open slightly at idle. I have normal manifold vacuum of around 16 in Hg. Is this normal? I know the Tial BOV comes with different springs but I don’t have them. Is the spring in there too weak maybe?

You can see the brown o-ring in there lifted up slightly.

Edit: I ordered a BOV spring meant for 16-19 in Hg vacuum. The one in there must be wrong. Thanks google!

[pandaboo911]

Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

Added coolant lines for the wastegate

I used the drain bolt as a feed and the throttle body heater return line as.. return







All that’s really left to do is fab an exhaust
I’m going with 3” stainless and 3” oval under the subframe into a 3” - 2x 2.5” muffler.
I had the single 3” tip previously but didn’t like how the single tip looks.

I also got an aem boost controller so I’m eager to play around with that

[pandaboo911]

I’m building my 1st exhaust, but I’m not sure if I need to use flex couplers. Anyone know a rule of thumb on when to use them? I’m trying to maximize ground clearance.

I got a 1.75” flex coupling for the wastegate tube but Im not sure if it will fit where I want it. Is a flex coupling necessary if the dump tube is short? It’s only about 12” long. Is it a massive pain to install if it doesn’t have a flex?

I’m using Ryan G’s e30 m3 as a reference, and noticed he didn’t use any flex couplings anywhere. Could this cause the exhaust to crack?
Ryan G m3 pics for reference, I’m going for a very similar routing

[kronus]

pipe will warp from heat and it will be a huge pain in the ass to get it mated to v-bands again. a bit of flex goes a long way.