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Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

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    Threw in some new control arms. I looked into rebuilding the old e30 m3 ones but it seems there's no safe way of getting the old ball joints out.
    It would require milling the back of the balljoint and pressing in a new one which could compromise strength

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    Painted strut housings

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    Finished up the catch can

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    I just looked at my recent posts and they are all formatted terribly. Thanks Tapatalk.
    Sorry about that
    Attached Files
    Last edited by pandaboo911; 08-19-2019, 09:15 PM.

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      Had my friend Marcus @ MFR tig weld the exhaust. He always does a superb job. However I didn’t plan ahead and the downpipe wouldn’t slide back in with the wastegate dump welded on. Luckily I have another spare 3” v-band so I chopped the downpipe and added another clamp. Should make removal/install somewhat easier.

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        The wrap keeps the newly born hrsprs warm before they go out into the world and achieve great things.

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          Messing around with the brake bias adjuster I backed the knee panel with a steel tie down plate and jb weld. Its ugly but it works. Made it nice and rigid. Also added some to the other mounting holes Anyone painted one of these trim panels? Trying to find a paint that will somewhat match the rest of the interior.

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            I painted mine with Duplicolor black vinyl paint, came out great:



            It comes in gloss black and matte, I think I went with the matte.
            Albie

            '86 325e Zinnoberrot /// '02 325ci Schwarz II /// '18 M4 Azurite Black Metallic ///

            Albie325 Build Thread | Albie325 Feedback | Albie's M4 European Delivery

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              Originally posted by Albie325 View Post
              I painted mine with Duplicolor black vinyl paint, came out great: It comes in gloss black and matte, I think I went with the matte.
              Thanks! Ill give it a try

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                  I built some sway bar links, the stock length m3 links were 2” too short. I used some McMaster rod ends, here’s the part numbers. Installed this electronic boost controller so now my boost is TRU Doesn’t seem to spool any faster than the manual boost controller though, maybe like 100rpm
                  Last edited by pandaboo911; 09-14-2019, 09:05 PM.

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                    Really great build, video sounds awesome.

                    But, there is absolutely nothing wrong with pressing out old ball joints on control arms and pressing new ones in. There is no milling required. I've done it so many times on my IXs throughout the years because IX control arms are really hard to find and new ones are really expensive. They withstood 2 years of hard rallycrossing so I don't think there is any truth to replacing balljoints compromising control arm strength. I would go back to the m3 control arms and replace the ball joints. If you have a press and the right arbors it doesn't take any time at all.
                    AWD > RWD

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                      Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
                      Really great build, video sounds awesome. But, there is absolutely nothing wrong with pressing out old ball joints on control arms and pressing new ones in. There is no milling required. I've done it so many times on my IXs throughout the years because IX control arms are really hard to find and new ones are really expensive. They withstood 2 years of hard rallycrossing so I don't think there is any truth to replacing balljoints compromising control arm strength. I would go back to the m3 control arms and replace the ball joints. If you have a press and the right arbors it doesn't take any time at all.
                      The m3 control arms use a different balljoint from standard e30 steel arms. They have an aluminum cap welded on underneath preventing them from being pressed out. That cap has to be cut or milled off. The issue is the new press-in style balljoints could expand the cast aluminum and crack it. Even new arms have been known to bend. If they had the same style balljoint as the steel arms I wouldve definitely done it.

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                        Ive come across an annoying problem, my oil pressure light comes on at idle when the oil is up to temp. I figured it might be a bad oil pressure switch so I changed that, also changed to 10w60 oil from 15w50. It still comes on at 210F oil temp. Its strange because my oil pressure gauge is showing a solid 12-15psi, reading from the vanos oil feed port, right next to the oil pressure switch. This sucks because my wideband is switched on by the oil pressure switch, so its constantly shutting off at idle. I noticed the oil pressure switch port runs perpendicular to the oil cooler thermostat. Is it possible the oil cooler is creating a pressure drop at that port since theres no resistance to flow? Kinda stumped

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