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Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

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    Threw in some new control arms. I looked into rebuilding the old e30 m3 ones but it seems there's no safe way of getting the old ball joints out.
    It would require milling the back of the balljoint and pressing in a new one which could compromise strength

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    Painted strut housings

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    Finished up the catch can

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    I just looked at my recent posts and they are all formatted terribly. Thanks Tapatalk.
    Sorry about that
    Attached Files
    Last edited by pandaboo911; 08-19-2019, 09:15 PM.

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      Had my friend Marcus @ MFR tig weld the exhaust. He always does a superb job. However I didn’t plan ahead and the downpipe wouldn’t slide back in with the wastegate dump welded on. Luckily I have another spare 3” v-band so I chopped the downpipe and added another clamp. Should make removal/install somewhat easier.

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        The wrap keeps the newly born hrsprs warm before they go out into the world and achieve great things.

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          Messing around with the brake bias adjuster I backed the knee panel with a steel tie down plate and jb weld. It’s ugly but it works. Made it nice and rigid. Also added some to the other mounting holes Anyone painted one of these trim panels? Trying to find a paint that will somewhat match the rest of the interior.

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            I painted mine with Duplicolor black vinyl paint, came out great:



            It comes in gloss black and matte, I think I went with the matte.
            '86 325e Zinnoberrot /// '02 325ci Schwarz II /// '18 M4 Azurite Black Metallic ///

            Albie325 Build Thread | Albie325 COTM Jan 2021

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              Originally posted by Albie325 View Post
              I painted mine with Duplicolor black vinyl paint, came out great: It comes in gloss black and matte, I think I went with the matte.
              Thanks! I’ll give it a try

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                  I built some sway bar links, the stock length m3 links were 2” too short. I used some McMaster rod ends, here’s the part numbers. Installed this electronic boost controller so now my boost is TRU Doesn’t seem to spool any faster than the manual boost controller though, maybe like 100rpm
                  Last edited by pandaboo911; 09-14-2019, 09:05 PM.

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                    Really great build, video sounds awesome.

                    But, there is absolutely nothing wrong with pressing out old ball joints on control arms and pressing new ones in. There is no milling required. I've done it so many times on my IXs throughout the years because IX control arms are really hard to find and new ones are really expensive. They withstood 2 years of hard rallycrossing so I don't think there is any truth to replacing balljoints compromising control arm strength. I would go back to the m3 control arms and replace the ball joints. If you have a press and the right arbors it doesn't take any time at all.
                    AWD > RWD

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                      Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
                      Really great build, video sounds awesome. But, there is absolutely nothing wrong with pressing out old ball joints on control arms and pressing new ones in. There is no milling required. I've done it so many times on my IXs throughout the years because IX control arms are really hard to find and new ones are really expensive. They withstood 2 years of hard rallycrossing so I don't think there is any truth to replacing balljoints compromising control arm strength. I would go back to the m3 control arms and replace the ball joints. If you have a press and the right arbors it doesn't take any time at all.
                      The m3 control arms use a different balljoint from standard e30 steel arms. They have an aluminum cap welded on underneath preventing them from being pressed out. That cap has to be cut or milled off. The issue is the new press-in style balljoints could expand the cast aluminum and crack it. Even new arms have been known to bend. If they had the same style balljoint as the steel arms I would’ve definitely done it.

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                        I’ve come across an annoying problem, my oil pressure light comes on at idle when the oil is up to temp. I figured it might be a bad oil pressure switch so I changed that, also changed to 10w60 oil from 15w50. It still comes on at 210F oil temp. It’s strange because my oil pressure gauge is showing a solid 12-15psi, reading from the vanos oil feed port, right next to the oil pressure switch. This sucks because my wideband is switched on by the oil pressure switch, so it’s constantly shutting off at idle. I noticed the oil pressure switch port runs perpendicular to the oil cooler thermostat. Is it possible the oil cooler is creating a pressure drop at that port since there’s no resistance to flow? Kinda stumped

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                          Did a trackday at Thunderhill west, no problems during the trackday apart from the paint burning off the strut tower from heat.

                          Gonna have to get some of that gold foil or something. Unfortunately on the way back home one of the eccentric bolts on the trailing arm came loose, the nut and washer fell off somewhere, and the bolt was backing out. This led to some really bad shimmy in the rear end so I had to pull over. I guess the alignment shop didn't tighten up the eccentric bolt and it worked loose on the really bumpy road coming out of Thunderhill. Didn't notice anything strange on the track.

                          I thought the repair would be as simple as buying a new washer and nut, but the adjustment slot was bent by the suspension banging around. What's up with alignment shops sucking ass at their job? This is probably the 3rd time I've had stuff break because of the work done at an alignment shop.

                          Really frustrating since this was the only thing I didn't do myself. Time to buy some alignment tools I guess.

                          I noticed that after reviewing some track footage that there was some pretty bad oil starvation happening under braking and cornering. Oil pressure was dropping from 50-60 psi to 30-40 under braking and cornering. On the last run the oil level was about half a quart down and it was dropping down to 20psi. I installed an achilles motorsport oil pan baffle, guess it doesn't work super well?

                          There is another possibility that the oil pickup is cracked or not sealed and sucking air when the oil sloshes, this could be the same reason why my oil light comes on at idle. I REALLY dont wanna drop the pan though since it was a PITA last time.
                          Last edited by pandaboo911; 09-22-2019, 02:21 PM.

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                            still chasing this vanos issue. I'm getting a CEL and code for vanos mechanically stuck.

                            I've taken the vanos out and re-timed the engine twice, still getting a code and misfire at idle when the engine warms up.
                            I think it may have something to do with the m52 crank sensor adapter harness I installed.

                            I did encounter something strange on my engine. when I tension the chain the exhaust sprocket doesn't move as much as the in the BMW instructions. According to instructions, the exhaust sprocket should be lined up with the threaded holes biased to the left of the slot, and the holes should move to the center when the chain is tensioned. On mine, when I line up the threaded holes to the left of the slots, the holes only move 1-2mm, and don't reach the center of the slot. I moved the exhaust sprocket 1 tooth over, such that the holes and very slightly right of center of the slots when the chain is tensioned.

                            Anyone know of a definitive way of setting cam timing on the exhaust sprocket from scratch? Does the exhaust sprocket actually rotate slightly until the sprocket bolts hit the end of the slot? I'm trying to wrap my head around why the exhaust sprocket is slotted at all...

                            In other news, I'm currently replacing a turbo oil drain which melted, and a pair of axles that exploded. Yay turbos! :)

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                              Not sure I have ever heard of it happening to m52's but my LS motor dealt with oil pressure issues and it was because I had a tiny nick in the oil pickup tube o ring might be something to check/replace
                              1989 325i LS Swap (Money Pit):https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=244933
                              COTM Feb 2019: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=428404

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by pandaboo911 View Post
                                Unfortunately on the way back home one of the eccentric bolts on the trailing arm came loose, the nut and washer fell off somewhere, and the bolt was backing out. This led to some really bad shimmy in the rear end so I had to pull over. I guess the alignment shop didn't tighten up the eccentric bolt and it worked loose on the really bumpy road coming out of Thunderhill. Didn't notice anything strange on the track.

                                I thought the repair would be as simple as buying a new washer and nut, but the adjustment slot was bent by the suspension banging around. What's up with alignment shops sucking ass at their job? This is probably the 3rd time I've had stuff break because of the work done at an alignment shop.

                                Really frustrating since this was the only thing I didn't do myself. Time to buy some alignment tools I guess.
                                Same happened to me. Standard alignment shops don't know how to deal with the rear adjustment. I have the posi lock style and they tightened it down with the posi lock plates at 45* angles... nearly completely ruined them. I've gone to a bmw shop that specializes in race prepping e30s to have it handled correctly. And since then started doing my own alignments as well. Now the only thing I pay for is having tires mounted and balanced... though that's also starting to get irritating

                                Originally posted by pandaboo911 View Post
                                still chasing this vanos issue. I'm getting a CEL and code for vanos mechanically stuck.
                                I did encounter something strange on my engine. when I tension the chain the exhaust sprocket doesn't move as much as the in the BMW instructions. According to instructions, the exhaust sprocket should be lined up with the threaded holes biased to the left of the slot, and the holes should move to the center when the chain is tensioned. On mine, when I line up the threaded holes to the left of the slots, the holes only move 1-2mm, and don't reach the center of the slot. I moved the exhaust sprocket 1 tooth over, such that the holes and very slightly right of center of the slots when the chain is tensioned.

                                Anyone know of a definitive way of setting cam timing on the exhaust sprocket from scratch? Does the exhaust sprocket actually rotate slightly until the sprocket bolts hit the end of the slot? I'm trying to wrap my head around why the exhaust sprocket is slotted at all...
                                FWIW I've never been able to duplicate the image in the Bentley manual or TIS for the cam timing. I've always been off just a bit. I think there's some way to rotate it and check that you have full travel. It's fairly obvious when you don't. Have you tried the compressed air method to check travel? Or swapped in a known good solenoid?
                                Last edited by Sh3rpak!ng; 03-02-2020, 10:51 AM.
                                '89 325i OBD2 S52 BUILD THREAD
                                Shadetree30

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