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Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo
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The fire ring would just make it bleed boost off so I don't think that would be the case (I ran mine once without the firing ring and had no boost). I don't know what would have caused it to explode like that. It is like it was over pressurized.
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Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo
Huh so that’s what it’s supposed to look like
Turns out the one that flew off actually had the valve seat missing. I didn’t know it should have one, maybe that’s why it came off? I bought it used so maybe the previous owner lost it
The seat actually centers it too.
Gonna try and use the water cooling ports on the wastegate cause why not. Problem is my engine only has 2 ports in the head and both are being used.
Anyone know if the coolant drain bolt can be used as a supply? I have the throttle body heater line that returns into the big coolant pipe. So I just need a coolant supply. I figure if the water is pumped from the front of the engine toward the back then I ought be able to use the coolant drain port as a coolant supply no?
I have read of people using the drain as a return but that doesn’t seem to make sense to meLast edited by pandaboo911; 06-26-2019, 01:43 AM.
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Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo
New fuel pump
Walbro GSS340, fits without cutting anything
Rewiring some stuff
Need a new wideband, sensor on my lc-1 crapped out. Debating between the AEM x series or the innovate MTX. There doesn’t seem to be much difference besides cost. Both use the Bosch 4.9
Leaning toward the aem right now since I don’t particularly like the LC-1 I haveLast edited by pandaboo911; 06-23-2019, 05:48 PM.
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Originally posted by Motheye99 View Postdid you blow off your BOV? ouch.
Wastegate rattled itself loose. :(
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Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo
Pro tip: make sure your shit is torqued before going on a test drive. [emoji51]
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Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo
Swapped the idle valve, sure enough the old one was completely locked up.. wtf? Corrosion maybe idk
It’s idling a little high, 1000rpm, but that might be the tune idk. I’ll investigate that later.
I experimented with the aluminum brazing rod and had some success. I started with the compressor housing, but my propane torch was not nearly hot enough to work.
The compressor housing is about 10mm thick where I’m trying to tack it. I went and bought a map gas torch, which turned out to be really fucking hot haha.
Using this method is pretty tricky. You have to get the whole part up to temperature to cook off any oils and then focus on one spot, otherwise all the heat will sink out immediately. I melted the cast elbow slightly in one spot
It’s ugly, but the result is good enough.
Obviously this is just so I can take it to a professional welder and have them finish it. The space where this elbow goes is pretty tight and I didn’t want to risk having it welded fully and then not fitting.
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Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo
Crack in the vanos housing. Waffles waffles
Handbrake console gauges
They go along with the gauge cluster
Also got a nice package in the mail
DKM twin disc clutchLast edited by pandaboo911; 06-04-2019, 11:51 PM.
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Been thrashing every night putting this thing together. I’ve run into a lot of annoying snags.
I was chasing a huge oil leak and I finally found it after taking the vanos unit out. The end plate holding the vanos had a crack in it, no idea how or when that happened. Got a replacement.
Next up I found the idle valve wasn’t working for whatever reason, after putting everything together. So I’m gonna have to rip the whole intake off again and install a replacement.
Got 90% of the wiring done. Added a fuel pressure gauge, fuel level. Will add pics of that.
Also added a VR to Hall effect signal converter for the VSS signal. Hopefully that works. I’m not 100% sure how people get VSS to work for OBD2. I’m still getting P0500 for speed sensor. Previously I used a gutted e30 speedometer circuit to condition the speed signal, but I hated that solution. Any tips appreciated :)
This is how it looks now.
Anyone interested in a 6 speed manual 550i? Doing a lot of maintenance on it, planning to sell. It’s a helluva car, one of the best I’ve ever owned, but I’m looking to downsize.
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Thanks guys for the replies. I’ll try a combination of the tape and scribe.
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use PET clear green tape. I used it to help build my charge pipes and it works great. Peel, tack remove, and it generally leaves alot less sticky residue than many other tapes. Aluminum welding is very sensitive to being dirty.
awesome build!
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Originally posted by BUDNUNTA View Postive seem people tape them and then just peel the tapeback and tack
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
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ive seem people tape them and then just peel the tapeback and tack
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