Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Originally posted by pandaboo911 View Post

    Also added a VR to Hall effect signal converter for the VSS signal. Hopefully that works. I’m not 100% sure how people get VSS to work for OBD2. I’m still getting P0500 for speed sensor. Previously I used a gutted e30 speedometer circuit to condition the speed signal, but I hated that solution. Any tips appreciated :)

    MS41 expects VSS to come from an ABS tone ring, which iirc is 48 teeth, whereas the E30's VSS signal from the diff is 9 teeth. You're ~5.3x too slow if you feed the ECU the stock signal, but, you can change the multiplier for this with romraider (or your tuner can do it if you aren't tuning it yourself). They have a field set up to just go in and change.

    Some details here:



    Edit: I might've misinterpreted what your problem is, I guess it's more to do with lack of conditioning by the dash than what I posted about.

    If your dash works and you just want the code to go away, you can (in romraider) turn off the VSS DTC/adjust revlimiter to not act weird because of it. VSS may affect vanos activation points and some rev limiter settings that work off speed in the S52's MS41.2 (but M52 MS41.0/MS41.1 don't use it to the same extent)
    Last edited by Northern; 07-19-2019, 09:58 AM. Reason: r3v replaced my post with a full quote?
    Originally posted by priapism
    My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
    Originally posted by shameson
    Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

    Comment


      Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

      Originally posted by Northern View Post
      MS41 expects VSS to come from an ABS tone ring, which iirc is 48 teeth, whereas the E30's VSS signal from the diff is 9 teeth. You're ~5.3x too slow if you feed the ECU the stock signal, but, you can change the multiplier for this with romraider (or your tuner can do it if you aren't tuning it yourself). They have a field set up to just go in and change.

      Some details here:



      Edit: I might've misinterpreted what your problem is, I guess it's more to do with lack of conditioning by the dash than what I posted about.

      If your dash works and you just want the code to go away, you can (in romraider) turn off the VSS DTC/adjust revlimiter to not act weird because of it. VSS may affect vanos activation points and some rev limiter settings that work off speed in the S52's MS41.2 (but M52 MS41.0/MS41.1 don't use it to the same extent)


      I knew about the number of teeth being lower, I just wanted to make sure the ECU isn’t in limp mode because there’s no signal.

      I haven’t tested if this Vems converter actually works, but the engine doesn’t cut at 5500. I think the ecu had code 500 for speed signal but I haven’t reset it to see if it comes back.
      I think the VSS may have been disabled on this ecu, I purchased it 2nd hand. Would I be seeing the code if it was disabled?

      I have an aftermarket speedometer that works off the vems converter too, still need to test that as well.

      Unfortunately the vems converter has a division option but no multiplication, and my car doesn’t have ABS so I’m stuck with using the diff sensor.

      Thank you for the tip, I’ll look into romraider. I already have a cable for programming the ecu so I might as well

      Edit: I think my ecu is 4.1, came from an m52. If that’s the case VSS shouldn’t affect vanos activation right? It’s just using rpm?
      Last edited by pandaboo911; 07-19-2019, 01:12 PM.

      Comment


        41.1 from the US M52 cars doesn't depend on VSS for vanos/redline tables, but it does has a separate VSS error redline. (5248rpm is what someone says on the romraider forums, so it may be disabled already but maybe the DTC that triggers a CEL is still on?)
        I think the only VSS related code it can throw is "214 Vehicle Speed Signal (VSS)"

        Also, if it's a tuned ECU from like RKtunes, TRM, etc., it is likely read protected, so don't waste your time trying to get romraider installed/working in that case.
        Originally posted by priapism
        My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
        Originally posted by shameson
        Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

        Comment


          Originally posted by Northern View Post
          41.1 from the US M52 cars doesn't depend on VSS for vanos/redline tables, but it does has a separate VSS error redline. (5248rpm is what someone says on the romraider forums, so it may be disabled already but maybe the DTC that triggers a CEL is still on?)
          I think the only VSS related code it can throw is "214 Vehicle Speed Signal (VSS)"

          Also, if it's a tuned ECU from like RKtunes, TRM, etc., it is likely read protected, so don't waste your time trying to get romraider installed/working in that case.


          Yeah it’s from rktunes. Read protected? Bummer. Too bad they can’t just hide the fields containing their secret sauce tunes.

          The code i was getting was P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor. It doesn’t trigger the CEL but it’s stored as a code. I’ll know as soon as I calibrate my speedometer if it works or not. From what I’ve read the vems device does the same job as the speedometer circuit, converts the VR AC signal to a digital square wave. If it doesn’t work I’ll just strip down the speedometer to just the circuit board and package it nicely.

          Comment


            If it lets you rev beyond 5248rpm and doesn't throw a CEL, I wouldn't be worried about the code
            Originally posted by priapism
            My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
            Originally posted by shameson
            Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

            Comment


              Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

              Progress on the exhaust. Working on a slanted driveway is extremely tedious.

              Here’s what I’m working with





              I forgot to buy exhaust hangers so I’ve been zip -tying it up, marking it, taking it off, tack welding, repeat. It takes extremely long.

              I tried tacking it while under the car but got a face and body blasted with weld spatter, not fun.

              I squeezed in one of these flex bellows, gotta say it makes it so much easier to get the v-band together.



              For now it’s all straight through, no cat because the tune is very rich and would destroy a cat in short order, although I’d like to add one down the road when the tune is sorted out.
              The oval is used where it goes under the subframe. I destroyed my last exhaust there with 16” wheels and it was round 3” so hopefully the oval doesn’t self destruct there as well.



              It all goes into a borla muffler, I’ve used the pro xs on a few exhaust builds and always liked how they sound.



              I’m gonna build a helmholtz resonator too once it’s all finished and try to document that. I had insane drone with the 3” exhaust I had on the supercharger setup.

              Comment


                Got the section that goes under the subframe fabbed.



                Somethings fucky with my welder though, seems to not pool anymore, just spatters and builds up weld. I cleaned the shit out of the piping with a grinder and turned the power to max, still doesn’t pool into the piping.

                Comment


                  I liked that same muffler, should sound good when done
                  Simon
                  Current Cars:
                  -1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle

                  Make R3V Great Again -2020

                  Comment


                    exhaust is looking good. where did you get the oval piping? welding under jackstands is the worst!!
                    89 325i 4dr s52
                    02 BMW 525iT m54b30/manual swapped (daily) *sold*
                    21' Toyota Tacoma TRD OR 4x4 6 speed Manual

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by s14brent View Post
                      exhaust is looking good. where did you get the oval piping? welding under jackstands is the worst!!


                      Everything is from summit racing. They sell it in 4’ lengths.

                      The flex bellows are from eBay.

                      Yeah welding under the car really sucks.

                      Comment


                        Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

                        Got the back section tacked, I was playing a bit with the amount of stickout on the tips. I wanted them to stick out but it ended up looking kinda dumb so I made them flush

                        The professional workstation haha. I think I should’ve gotten a miter saw before starting, would’ve saved a lot of time, also would’ve saved my fingers from numerous cuts






                        I thought the stick out looked stupid lol, went with a more oem look


                        They just barely poke out





                        Ignore the shitty tack welds :D




                        Last piece is the wastegate dump. I’m trying to have to merge back into the DP. It’s tight in there so it’s gonna be a challenge.

                        Comment


                          Did some painting Also sold a car so more funds have been acquired for this project! I want to do a full respray. Debating on colors atm.
                          Last edited by pandaboo911; 08-09-2019, 09:45 PM.

                          Comment


                            Finished fabricating the wastegate dump I’m redoing the front suspension. Swapping out the 45mm strut housings for 51mm, which I should’ve done a long time ago. So I have a set of shortened 45mm strut housings with bilstein sport dampers for sale. They are iX length. Comes with camber plates that add lots of caster. Will post pics soon.

                            Comment


                              Planning on shortening strut housings 1-1.5” My struts already have collars welded on for threaded sleeves. Are these usually welded at the same height as the stock spring perch? I can’t really tell on mine. Anyone have a tip on where to chop them and still retain the m3 sway bar link? Above or below the spring perch? There’s only about 1” clearance below the perch to the sway bar mount, so getting in there to weld will be difficult. These coil overs are up for grabs if anyone in the Bay Area is interested
                              Last edited by pandaboo911; 08-17-2019, 02:02 AM.

                              Comment


                                Shortening the 51mm housings, really learned a lot doing this. The key to welding seems to be in the prep work. First I chopped the housings using the chop saw at work. Cut out 1.5” exactly. Going from 15.5” to 14 These struts already had some collars welded on, but they were crooked and in a bad spot so I cut them out. In the bottom of each strut us a ~1.8” spacer to get the shocks to the right height. Koni calls for a spec of 1-4mm between the collar nut and top of strut. I wanted the threaded sleeve to come as far down as possible without removing the sway bar bracket, so the collar had be welded at the same spot the struts were chopped. The welds that join the strut pieces were ground down and the collar placed on top. Tacked it and got it square Welded Another little thing I’m working on is a catch can. I didn’t want to shell out $100+ for one so I decided to get a $25 eBay special and modify it. I milled it out to fit one of these noise suppressor things. And this little baffle Also added a drain, slightly crooked lol
                                Last edited by pandaboo911; 08-17-2019, 09:45 PM.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X