COKGBLR goes under the knife

[Cletonius]

I took the car for a longer drive after I gave it a good washing. Overall I'm very pleased with how it came out, the ride is nice and firm but not too bouncy.

I have noticed that above 4k rpm through redline I'm getting a shudder. It doesn't seem to be velocity relayed, but more to engine rpm. The car cruises fine at 80+ mph on the highway but after the revs come up the shudder happens. Could this be motor mounts? My transmission mount cross member was hanging by a few threads when I got under the car, maybe replacing all the bolts and finally getting everything as it should have caused some of the other issues to show up?

Here are a few pics I took today after the wash.

[Cletonius]

After a 5 mile drive. YAY!

[Cletonius]

Brake lines are done, fuel tank is in, subframe is in. Tomorrow we bolt up calipers, bleed brakes, install the driveshaft and set the car down.

Beyond excited.

[Cletonius]

The same thing happened to me when i bought mine. I bought 2 extras when i replaced it so i wouldn't get stuck again next time. Of course i have i never broke another since then. Greasing that piece seems to take some of the load off it.

I'm in a small town and they haven't had anything in stock I've needed so far. It's hard to deal with being from Chicago where I can go get this tool cash and carry from several places. I left my receipt at home so I'm hoping they'll swap me for store credit and give me some unbent hard line and fluid so I can finish the job tomorrow. I really don't want to have to take Tuesday off as well and I won't have time to come back for another 3 weeks. Total rock and hard place.

I wish I'd known about greasing the pin, I only need 2 more flares to complete my job and then the back half of the car can go in. Sucks.

[LJ851]

I picked up this iso flare tool and made 8 flares and this happened. Going into town tomorrow to see if I can warranty it. :(

The same thing happened to me when i bought mine. I bought 2 extras when i replaced it so i wouldn't get stuck again next time. Of course i have i never broke another since then. Greasing that piece seems to take some of the load off it.

[Herr Faust Schinken]

It wasn't too bad, no real corrosion on the structure of the car at all. Only one little spot on the fuel tank mount in the driveshaft tunnel. I sprayed most of a can of rust converter from Eastwood down there and used the same stuff to paint the subframe and trailing arms.

I used revshift 80A for the whole back end. GC told me to use stock rubber M3 cabs so I've got those pressed into the lollipops ready to go.

thats what i went for its great for the street too, my car rides no harder and is no louder than with the stock bushings, i think you will be very happy with them

[Cletonius]

Subframe is all together, just need another quart of diff oil.



I picked up this iso flare tool and made 8 flares and this happened. Going into town tomorrow to see if I can warranty it. :(

[Cletonius]

damn thats rusty sorry you have to deal with that, did you do revshift bushings in the back?

It wasn't too bad, no real corrosion on the structure of the car at all. Only one little spot on the fuel tank mount in the driveshaft tunnel. I sprayed most of a can of rust converter from Eastwood down there and used the same stuff to paint the subframe and trailing arms.

I used revshift 80A for the whole back end. GC told me to use stock rubber M3 cabs so I've got those pressed into the lollipops ready to go.

[Herr Faust Schinken]

damn thats rusty sorry you have to deal with that, did you do revshift bushings in the back?

[Cletonius]

lol yeah, they were pretty bad. I cut the tee out and had to use a torch to heat every fitting where metal connected to rubber.

You can see the carnage here. Everything in this pic required heat. Even then the bolt that the tee is mounted with snapped off in the body. I drilled it larger and tapped it, just have to make sure it fits through the new tee. I'll probably have to enlarge the hole on the outside portion so I don't weaken the fitting.

[Van Westervelt]

Ah, I always forget about you guys in the rusty parts. I was just trying to figure out why this was being replaced as nothing in this thread that I saw talked about the lines being rotted out.

[Cletonius]

That is the brass T divider in the rear that goes to the lines. It is a cheap 'while you're in there' thing to replace with the subframe removed. The hardlines rot out, I did not take a good look but they are only 10 bucks a side prefromed. I did it on my Mother's e30 a year ago, new line from the MC to the rear with a new T and pre made lines with new rubber lines.

Bingo. I'm a little sad to find out that prebent lines are $10/side after I bought a flare tool, 25' roll of line and a box of fittings. If I'd known I'd have bought the bent ones and one long one for the rear supply line. I found out Levent sells a kit for $60 with all the hard line needed.

I have the ss braided lines instead of rubber, although after cutting the OE lines they looked like they had a metal weave in them already.

[F34R]

GC coils on my eta with a chipped crate motor and 2.93 lsd = daily perfection in my opinion.

Glad to see you showing this thing some love!

b27i conversion is honestly perfection with coilovers. Pure love <3 This year marks my first e30 that is not powered by an eta since 2003 when I bought my first 325es. The m30 is truly a beast!

What was the reason for replacing the hard lines? And why do you need this part? Not sure what you are doing here exactly.

That is the brass T divider in the rear that goes to the lines. It is a cheap 'while you're in there' thing to replace with the subframe removed. The hardlines rot out, I did not take a good look but they are only 10 bucks a side prefromed. I did it on my Mother's e30 a year ago, new line from the MC to the rear with a new T and pre made lines with new rubber lines.

[Van Westervelt]

What was the reason for replacing the hard lines? And why do you need this part? Not sure what you are doing here exactly.

[Cletonius]

Rest of the assembly coming this weekend. Got my brake splitter so once this is in I can put the fuel tank and subframe back!

It was dealer only, p/n 34 34 1 111 435. Has since been superceeded to 34 33 1 163 566. It's used in the leveling system on the E38 from what the parts guy said, so either number should get you the right piece.