do you regret going boost?
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SNAFU; high performance 318is build that lives up to the name, Turbo M42 ➞ Turbo M20
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Originally posted by efficient View Postdo you regret going boost?
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17
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they make double-ended studs where one side is larger than the other. Basically for your exact same problem, where you had to drill out a hole in the head. I used these on my M20 back in 2006 for a couple studs where the shop that had 'rebuilt' the head stripped them out.
I bought a whole box of them. I wonder if I still have them laying around somewhere..
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Yeah, I've seen those and considered them as the solution to this problem, but I really didn't have time to keep drilling away at it then wait for the stud and proper size helicoil kit to arrive. Progress was so slow, I would get fractions of a millimeter of drilling progress out of every tank of air then have to wait 15-20min for my relatively small air compressor to cool off before refilling the tank. I'm guessing there's 3-5mm of partially drilled out stud left in there, and I can get to the hole with the downpipe removed and the header still mounted to drill an oversized hole in the future so at least there's that.
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17
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Can't catch a break this year. I discovered excessive turbo shaft play a couple of weeks ago, it was almost trashed with ~5,000mi on it. Installed an oil pressure gauge to see if low oil pressure had killed this freshly rebuilt turbo and it read 0 at idle, so I tossed that piece of junk and spent more on a nicer one, oil pressure was reasonable with that one and my in line filter didn't have significant pressure drop so that kind of narrowed it down to a faulty turbo rebuild. At that point I really had no choice but to buy a new turbo, so I did, and sorted out a permanent and safe oil feed solution to get rid of the in-line filter by having a local hydraulic shop weld a fitting to the oil cooler banjo bolt and cramming the stock oil cooler under the radiator temporarily. I had it done before Cars and Coffee last Sunday and that was fun but the fun stopped the other day. I turned the boost back up and my clutch started slipping. The clutch is 3 years old and it has maybe 60k miles on it, I guess it just couldn't take the daily duty in traffic. No time to do the clutch now with exams coming up so that's twice in a year that my car will be out of service for a couple of weeks. My transmission leaks pretty badly too so I'll be replacing whatever seals are leaking while it's out. Not sure what clutch I'll go with this time around but whatever it is I'm hoping that with everything sorted out I don't have any problems with this car for a few more years.
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17
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Long story short: clutch started slipping a few weeks ago, ordered a new Spec Stage 3+ clutch, transmission had to come off twice because the clutch wouldn't disengage. It's currently driveable but not perfect, there is still some clutch drag and it is not smooth going into first from a stop. I also discovered some more rust in the floor. What a pain in the ass.
Nice wear on the flywheel
Machined
New clutch
New output shaft and shift rod seals, also replaced rear main seal and input shaft seal.
Installed
Best $80 I've spent in a long time
Rust :(
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17
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Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View PostWhen you text about the trans jack, kinda figured you got one of those typical adapters for a floor jack - that scissor jack looks like it's a better option!
Originally posted by Digitalwave View PostI'm gonna need to rent that scissor jack from ya.
Originally posted by Northern View PostMan you've had the worst luck over the past year. I hope this is the last of it
Originally posted by Fraser View PostWow I bet you're getting the trans in and out in a hurry with all that practice. What is causing the clutch issues? I need to do mine soon and this situation would be a nightmare as getting the trans off on an iX is a little less trivial...
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17
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What a huge pain in the ass. Sorry to hear about it man. Hope this works out quickly and cheaply. A good friend of mine has had a similar year with his land rover (lol...to be expected with a land rover) and its been hard seeing him so defeated all the time. Stick with it! It'll be worth it in the end
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800mi or so on the new clutch and it is disengaging fully now. As it wore in it gradually got better. Looks like I've lucked out. The next maintenance items are right around the corner. It sounds like my front right wheel bearing is going bad and the boots on my CV joints all need replacement. 3 are cracked, 1 is torn.
As for non-maintenance items, my next project is some sort of housing or ducting for my air filter, I have needed it for a long time. I'm not satisfied with seeing high intake air temperatures while sitting idle on a hot day, this is the highest I've seen (177°f). It usually drops to ambient or at least close to it while moving pretty quickly, but I'm hoping to reduce or outright eliminate this sort of thing.
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17
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