Northern's Sterlingsilber M52 Turbo 325is

[Albie325]

NIce updates, sorry about the "oops." Dumb question, how are you going about posting so many pics in your posts? I've been doing it the same as I did on the old software, however now it only lets me add a max of 5 photos per post. Makes adding DIY's and such a big pain

[mike.bmw]

NIce updates, sorry about the "oops." Dumb question, how are you going about posting so many pics in your posts? I've been doing it the same as I did on the old software, however now it only lets me add a max of 5 photos per post. Makes adding DIY's and such a big pain

I've been able to add more than 5 by just inserting the img tags and urls manually (not using the toolbar). So I'm actually typing in:

*leftbracket*img*rightbracket*http://someurl.com/path/to/photo.jpg*leftbracket*/img*rightbracket*

Edit: It tries to evaluate the img tags even in a CODE block, so I'll substitute *leftbracket* for [ and *rightbracket* for ].

[Northern]

I upload them to flickr, then use their share button for the bbcode link. I usually delete the extra text/url crap they tack on so it looks like what Mike wrote, but I got lazy on the last post.


The only real advantage of using flickr's share button is it lets you reduce the picture size.

[Albie325]

Nice, thanks guys. I use Flickr as well but had been using the insert image icon in the toolbar to paste in the url. For whatever reason on the new software doing it this way adds pictures as attachments, with a max of 5. Your guys way of doing it is way easier.

[-J-]

Congrats on the FSAE-Michigan finish! I'm a Michigan State alum and learned most of my engineering knowledge from the FSAE team.

I was there for the endurance event and I'm pretty sure I saw your car out there. Completing endurance is the toughest (and most important) part of comp, and as you mentioned testing time is key. A low development car with two months of testing time will always beat a highly developed car with no testing time on it.

[Northern]

Congrats on the FSAE-Michigan finish! I'm a Michigan State alum and learned most of my engineering knowledge from the FSAE team.

I was there for the endurance event and I'm pretty sure I saw your car out there. Completing endurance is the toughest (and most important) part of comp, and as you mentioned testing time is key. A low development car with two months of testing time will always beat a highly developed car with no testing time on it.

I somehow missed this reply, but thanks! This is the first time in the 3 years on the team that we actually had any success and it felt great.
On the other hand, the team's management just completed their "worst" academic term and spent almost no time on the current year's car. I think we're deciding to fold, restructure, and spend an extra year building the team/developing the car. I'm taking a step back to maybe just advise/design things during my final year, and I think I'll be a lot happier doing that.

I got my AC Tig up and running and patched the E34 oil pan for the 4dr car, then promptly left the Argon on and wasted practically a full tank.

Update: Confirmed I'm an idiot. Tank was open, but is not completely empty. Seems like the gauge on the regulator is broken, or the tank is so close to empty that it doesn't read.


After driving the car this past summer/fall, I really want to put some more work in:

• Shifter - ebay short shifter has a lot of play. I wanted to do a floor mount setup, but I'm thinking of just throwing a z3 shifter in with a new cup first to see how it feels.
• Seat - I fixed my ripped bolsters a few years ago, but the reclining mechanism skips teeth and I'm using a RH lower frame which is annoying.
• Diff - has a lot of lash, not sure what's going on. Need a 2.93 anyway to match the ZF. I bought a Racing Diffs carrier cap and clutch/plate kit but still need the s2.93 carrier.
• Axles - Have some play. I'd rebuild them but I'd rather just buy new GKN/Loebro to have spares.
• Engine -
  • Charge piping needs some changes to smooth out near the MAF and move the BOV. I have the piping but need to cut/weld.
  • New 52lb/hr Bosch EV14 injectors on the way. Should be fine for my power goals, and idle way better than the Deka 60s.
  • Walbro 255 coming as well. I don't trust the TRE pump.
  • I want to lower my wastegate springs to either 7.25psi with Green/Red. or 8.7 with Green/Blue (I think I'm 11.6psi Black/Blue now)
• Tune -
  • Need to rescale for 52lb injectors
  • Need to rescale everything with load by 0.5 to prevent overflow in the ECU. Didn't know this was necessary when I set it up the first time
  • Need to treat the main fuel table as a stoich target, and then use the WOT table to multiply that to get to 11.8 or whatever. Again, didn't know this was necessary before.
  • I've always been worried by the lack of failsafes and wanted an EBC to provide overboost protection if I stayed on the stock ECU. Finally pulled the trigger on a GFB G-Force III, which now also accepts lambda signal from my LC-1 to set a lean alarm when under a specified AFR at >80% of boost target. The value of this unit with the AUD/CAD exchange rate is amazing. I'll use this to try to tune a WOT load range from WG spring pressure up to ~10psi depending on how it goes.
• Fuel System -
  • Need to replace fuel lines at the fuel filter. I forgot last year, but some of them are dry rotting.
  • These 52lb EV14s are the "Standard" length, ie. ~10mm shorter than the old EV1/EV6 injectors, so I need to mess with tabs on the fuel rail.
  • Fuel rail has leaked in the past, the early M52 rail isn't flared because it uses push connect lines and I stupidly tried to flare them, so I need to figure out what to do there.
  • Lines are too short in the engine bay, so I can't move the fuel rail off the intake manifold. I'll buy some new line to give myself another 6".

Hopefully after all of that, it'll be reasonable to drive, and I won't be scared to put miles on it.

For future reference:

(Edit from the future: pic broken because url moved for Tial MVR Spring colour vs PSI chart)

[jeenyus]

super cool. love the updates. thank you for sharing with us.

[zwill23]

Cool to see another BW S257, curious to see how the M20 vs M52 compares with it. Hopefully my M20 holds together

[Northern]

Hopefully my M20 holds together

I feel the same way about my M52 lol.


I'm thinking about getting my new laptop set up with Romraider and MS41 quickflash so I can start updating my tune. There's no rush, but it's something I can work on that doesn't involve being outside...

After it's updated, I have to send it out to Shake for him to convert that to MS41.3, which is an exciting recent development for RR.
MS41.3 is custom code which gives some extra features: https://sites.google.com/site/openms...-code---ms41-3
I probably will only use like half of those features - inputs for logging, CEL flash for knock, expanded tables all sound really good.


I think my EBC came in early - I had a delivery notice on my door last night with a customs fee of $57...

[pandaboo911]

Any updates on this car? Wondering how you keep your valve cover from melting since your downpipe routing looks similar.

I've done 2 gaskets, and installed a heat shield over the plastic cover, but it still causes the valve cover to start leaking.

Did you need to extend the injector coil harness to route it up and over or did it work without modifying it

[Northern]

I think I have a picture that I'll share next post that will help, but I'll try to explain it also. Sorry for the wait.

I haven't really driven the car very far until recently. I did a few drives maybe 30 mins long, but otherwise just a quick 10 min jaunt across the city. Only this year have I started to redo my tune and try to get something decent, so I did a ~200km trip and a few shorter ones as longer logging sessions.
I have a ceramic coated manifold, turbo blanket, wrapped downpipe, and a 0.020" Aluminum heat shield attached to the beauty cover which wraps down around the side of the head and butts up against the head probably 1.5~2" below the gasket. I think these work well, but honestly don't have a ton of runtime on the car.

The coil harness is unmodified, I just removed the plastic wire cover and filed notches to lay the bundle in. I think ba114 did something similar, but extended the wires so the connector is hidden under the firewall cover, and tbh I think it looks much better than mine.

[Northern]

I usually remove all the extra crap from the flickr bb code link but there are a lot of pictures this time and I'm too lazy to bother... First couple pictures are from my old dslr and unfortunately don't seem focused...


Injectors and pump came in from Highflowfuel/Quantum fuel systems. You can buy from their website or through ebay and they sell authentic injecors/pumps. I know how many fakes are out there...
DSC_2294 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I think the fitment kit was for a 350z, but it looks like it will fit.
DSC_2296 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Body is stamped "TI Automotive" and some other stuff. Supposedly the correct info.
DSC_2297 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

DSC_2298 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

You can see the metal impeller through the bottom, apparently some knockoffs use plastic
DSC_2299 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I can't remember what was supposed to be shown by this picture, but here you go.
DSC_2300 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Here are the EV14 boxes, with SN holograms under my thumb
DSC_2308 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

The most annoying part of the order: I asked for (free) adapters and they sent me something to adapt who-knows-what to an EV1 injector. Not particularly helpful...
DSC_2301 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
DSC_2303 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Injectors themselves... More later.
DSC_2311 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
DSC_2315 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

GFB G-Force III. I wanted an EBC for a while, and the feature set/ease of use/cost of this unit is insanely competitive.
DSC_2319 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
DSC_2322 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
DSC_2324 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
DSC_2326 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr


Hot side charge piping was literally just this 2.5" tube. I wanted to run the BOV to this side.
Reasons were: prevent MAF flow reversion during BOV activation, less hot air through the FMIC to cool, and closer to the Turbo to theoretically keep it spooled that extra 0.00001RPM during shifts lol
IMG_20200412_144735 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Just an ebay pipe that I added extra length to. Still terrible with the tig.
IMG_20200412_155917 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

In place with a new fake HKS SSQV since the well used one from before broke. Probably won't be here forever. (no vacuum line yet)
IMG_20200412_163800 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200426_115759 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Existing cold side. I wanted to get rid of the mild steel charge pipe, remove the BOV, and get rid of the 2.5-3" transition at the MAF.
IMG_20200412_164451 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Unfortunately my 2.5" to 3" 90deg coupler I bought years ago was not actually 2.5" so I only replaced the tube.
IMG_20200412_175948 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

This AGP turbine housing Vband flange does not match the 3" flanges I already had, so it was hard to line up, and leaked. You can see the soot that starts around the 4:00 thru 9:00 as well as a large spot on the turbo blanked at 12:00.
IMG_20200426_115645 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Strut bar off, downpipe off
IMG_20200426_120147 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Flex section still seems fine
IMG_20200426_120126 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Turbo to downpipe flange looks just as leaky on the other side
IMG_20200426_120209 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Heat wrap off:
IMG_20200506_111211 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Flange removed:
IMG_20200506_112730 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Old ebay flange vs AGPTurbo flange kit:
IMG_20200506_113206 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Another angle:
IMG_20200506_113157 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

AGP flange vs Housing
IMG_20200506_113259 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Ebay flange vs Housing
IMG_20200506_113316 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I don't know if my downpipe was always tweaked a little bit, but I had to cut/straigten the end to fit the new flange. It fit tighter on the pipe, so the pipe couldn't enter the vband flange on an angle like before
IMG_20200506_132126 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

First time Tigging stainless (other than plugging holes on my CBR exhaust, which was more butchery than welding)
I clamped another new flange to the AGP flange to try to keep it straight. Used pulse settings: 78A high, 10A low, 50% duty, 150Hz. supposedly helps to keep the heat out of it, and it seemed to work.
IMG_20200506_142055 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Welding back to the downpipe was a little dirtier, but wasn't too bad.
IMG_20200506_170838 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I have some 4" aluminum tape that is pretty thick, and I figure it's better heat shielding than nothing.
IMG_20200426_170342 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr


Re-wrapped the DP with the same wrap from before. I used some 0.040" lockwire to hold this end on instead of the big hose clamp from before.
Probably should note that this is an ebay clamp with the nut replaced... the clamp AGP sent didn't fit over both flanges, almost like it was too narrow? I probably could've forced it, but it was too hard to get it in place because it just wanted to ride the exterior of the lip.
IMG_20200506_172959 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr



Wastegate off to change springs and set up for EBC
IMG_20200426_122729 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Popped open, still looks new.
IMG_20200426_124222 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

10.15psi left, 8.7psi right. I'm trying to be more realistic with goals on 91AKI gas, and potential manifold creep.
IMG_20200426_124357 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Back together with the 8.7psi springs, and the ports moved around a bit
IMG_20200426_132115 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Boost reference nipple kinked the hose against the intake boot, so I shortened it
IMG_20200426_140236 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200426_143026 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I find if I don't grease my GC thrust bearings yearly, I get spring bind. I think these camber plates are >7 years old and still on the same sphericals/thrust bearings.
IMG_20200426_144957 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Also grease whatever you want to call this bearing surface
IMG_20200426_145322 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Brake lines were still original. BMA seems to be one of few who actually have (or claim to be) DOT Approved brake lines. Lots out there with marketing BS like "DOT compliant" or similar and I hate that shit. So much crud built up on the fittings too...
IMG_20200426_150646 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200426_150856 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200426_152228 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I'm still running blank rotors and Pagid OE pads, and they're the best setup I've had on this car in 10 years. Also by far the cheapest.

I pulled the early E39 M52 fuel rail to modify it to sit lower. I ground all the unused brackets off and clearanced the mounting tabs to clear the standoffs on the manifold.
I also flared the feed/return because in my stupidity, I decided that was better than running the stock quick disconnect fittings. It 100% is not worth trying to flare this SOB, it's nearly impossible. Just run the stock fittings with it instead of ruining it like I did.

Dekas off, EV14s ready to go in
IMG_20200430_144517 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Here's one glaring issue with EV14's on pretty much anything that used EV1/EV6 injectors. The shoulder that would usually bottom out is different, so the sealing oring goes in too far and doesn't seal.
IMG_20200430_145052 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

So I printed some spacers out of PETG. Max operating temp is like 73degC, which is kind of close, but considering the fuel running through them, I don't think they'll even get that hot. They seem to be holding up so far.
IMG_20200430_165351 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Installed on the injectors:
IMG_20200430_165445 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I also needed to replace the EV1/ bosch minitimer connectors with the USCAR EV14 connectors. This kind of proved hard to find unless I wanted them pre crimped onto tiny pigtails, which I obviously didn't.
I ended up buying some grey connectors for a good price from a seller that shipped from within Canada, but those never showed up, so I ended up buying them from highflowfuel for an extra $10 or something. Quality is very nice vs the pictures of the cheap grey ones.

First, you need to open the fuel harness cover and pull out these rubber retainers
IMG_20200430_154938 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Connector should come out freely with a bit of extra wire.
IMG_20200430_154952 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

To keep as much wire as possible, you need to depin the connector, otherwise you're cutting off another 1/4" of wire which is already kind of short.
You can insert a tiny screwdriver into the front to disengage the tab at the top of the pins. You should be left with this:
IMG_20200430_155735 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I cut the pins off between the crimp and the strain relief crimp, stripped back, and crimped on the new pins:
IMG_20200430_170156 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Click them into the connectors, and voilà:
IMG_20200430_170234 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Rail going back on with new clamps. These clamps hardly went on in the first place, but the next size up were too large so this was an hour long struggle between that and the lines being slightly too short to pull past the intake.
IMG_20200430_185548 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I printed some spacers for the rail mount as well
IMG_20200501_132009 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr


Some of you may have noticed the chafe mark on the downpipe heat wrap. That's from the IE strut bar making contact, so I ground down the offending area and repainted all the flaking section.
I used to hate this strut bar because it didn't fit over my M20, but since the swap, it's really grown on me. Very light but still very rigid because the tube is thin walled but fairly large diameter.
IMG_20200430_192507 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I bought another INPA cable because I have only one good one and use a bench harness to reflash. I figured not having to disconnect the cable and bring it into the house was worth $15.
Of course I did this once before and received a defective cable, which I didn't realize until a year later when I tried to use it. This time I learned my lesson and fired it up right away.
IMG_20200430_194426 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200510_150326 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200510_150337 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Speaking of bench harness, I wanted to clean mine up because I originally used the ADS port from the donor harness along with an ADS to OBD2 adapter, but it was bulky.
Here it is without the INPA cable, ADS to OBD2 adapter, or the power cable for the Xbox360 brick.
IMG_20200512_130105 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I cut the ADS port off and attached an OBD2 connector. The pictures don't really capture how much space is saved by removing the adapter and ADS port, but it's a much more reasonable size now.
IMG_20200512_145001 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

For the reject bin:
IMG_20200512_145636 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

In use
IMG_20200515_102525 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr


I installed the GFB G-Force III. Wasn't really much to it. Power comes from the aux fuse panel and grounds in the glove box. Vacuum runs in with the boost gauge, and all the other wires go through the engine harness. Wideband gets attached in the glovebox to the EBC for a boost cut feature, and to the Bank 2 Front O2 sensor input to the ECU for datalogging.

Solenoid sits here
IMG_20200508_135231 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Some holes and some grommets.
IMG_20200508_144950 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Mounted with 2-sided tape for now. Not sure what I'll do for a permanent install, but the location isn't half bad for visibility
IMG_20200508_152806 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Cockpit view. Gauges in the center vent will be saying goodbye soon hopefully. Really want that stock look.
IMG_20200508_152813 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr


Next I figured I'd tackle the fuel pump. I have some random TRE fuel pump in there now, which is essentially a knockoff Walbro 255. TRE have really made a shitty name for themselves in the past few years with knockoff parts, and I'm sketched out running it. I went to change the pump and got a reminder that the tank is very full:
IMG_20200514_161208 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

So the TRE stays for now.


Engine bay w/ 3"
IMG_20200505_115206 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200505_115217 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr


I spent a ton of time merging my fuel/timing maps into a whole new tune where the load values were halved to avoid overflow of the load factor in the ECU. This was also using Shake's MS41.3 custom code, so I had to interpolate the 12x16 fuel/timing tables to make them 20x20. Couple that with new injectors, re-implementing a bunch of WOT tables that I had disabled, and all the mechanical work I did, of course the car would not run when I first tried to start it.
Eventually I figured out that it was from something in my fuelling conversion or load halving operation that was just making my engine run super lean at idle and that was it.

After a few drives and a lot of part throttle tuning, I killed the wideband sensor in the Innovate LC-1 that I've been using since ~2016.
I had a spare (older) LC-1 kit, so I robbed the sensor from that and found that it is different.
One deep rabbit hole later, apparently the older kits run a Bosch LSU4.2 sensor as you'd expect. PN is Bosch 17014.
At some point they switch to NGK/NTK sensors. If you go to a part store and give them that bosch part number, it usually will xref to this NTK.
Anyway, now I have a new one of each, but here are the originals, top NTK with no markings, two sets of splices in the wires, and a TE connectivity connector on the end, vs Bosch on the bottom with the PN
IMG_20200526_112916 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

NTK sensor splices:
IMG_20200526_114321 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I also did an oil change for the first time in too long. Mahle filter and Liquimoly 5W40
IMG_20200528_161849 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200528_163409 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

And some more random under car pics:
IMG_20200528_163415 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200528_163420 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200528_163428 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200528_163824 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200528_163842 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

Went for a long drive with my buddy's freshly rebuilt EJ257
IMG_20200528_182732 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200528_182745 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

[Northern]

Part 2:

During the drive at the end of the last post, I encountered 4 issues.

1. My Tachometer would not work ~70% of the time.
2. My second LSU4.2 (the used bosch sensor from my other kit) for my Innovate LC-1 died.
3. On boost, my EBC shows I will overboost to 9.4 psi. This is at ~60% throttle and includes pressure drop through the FMIC/intake. So probably ~2.5psi creep so far. I'm not sure how much that will change with more throttle.
4. I encounter 7 degrees of knock retard at some points.

For the Tachometer issue, I pulled the cluster to look for damage. I found nothing, but my SI batteries are dead. My car is a '90 but the SI board was replaced with one made in '92 apparently.
IMG_20200529_144756 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

While I wait for batteries and some other stuff to show up, I grabbed a spare tach to let me drive the car. I pulled it apart to give it a once over and clean up the coolant/fuel gauge pins/grounds.
IMG_20200604_125611 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I also "painted" the needles (Red sharpie works surprisingly well)
IMG_20200604_132451 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr


I bought a new Bosch 17014 LSU4.2 sensor from Rockauto for ~$90CAD but it took a week and a half to ship, so I bought the same NTK sensor that came with my LC-1, mostly by accident from partsource, and it has a 1 year warranty so I'm not really worried about killing it.
Although I did make a little heat shield to try to give it a fighting chance.
IMG_20200601_165537 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I bought some of this peel and stick heat shielding in 2019 because my hood gets stupid hot and I'm afraid of destroying the paint.
This picture was taken probably a year after I installed it. I cut up the leftover scraps and covered the raised section on the left, but I guess I forgot to take the "after" photo.
IMG_20200601_171203 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

A friend of my WRX friend decided he wanted an e30, so we picked this up and drove it back 2 hours.
Found a lot of interesting issues along the way, and welded a handful of patches in it over the past two weeks.
IMG_20200602_210516 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr


When I bought the car in 2010, it had a brutal viper alarm in it that I managed to set off a dozen times and then unplug.
It was tied into a bunch of stuff, but not the central locking. I decided to tear it all out this past weekend.
A lot of it is just twisted together or vampire taps, but was surprised because some of it was not bad.
There's some sort of diode setup that was heatshrunk decently, but I'm still not really sure what everything tied into. A few wires went toward the rear of the car, maybe to flash the lights. One went to the large module above the DME in the glovebox area.
IMG_20200613_130920 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

While I was in here, I fixed a severed wire to something in the steering column. This didn't seem to fix anything, but disabled my OBC from cycling? I need to come back to this someday.
IMG_20200613_135549 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr

I also found I had a nice heater core valve leak. I don't see it leaking while the car is running, maybe only when it gets hot and pressure builds. I don't really want to pull this out to try to rebuild it right now.
IMG_20200614_121203 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr
IMG_20200614_121247 by Maximum Timhortons, on Flickr


For the overboost, I'm not sure what to do for now. I'll probably leave it alone for now because it's not that bad. If it is worse under some condition, I may drop down to the next lowest spring pressure or re-do the whole wastegate setup to attach to the turbine housing.

Knock issue: I think I have it figured out. I originally had 3 big questions:
* why does the ECU say it is pulling 7 degrees of timing, but the timing is still more advanced than my ignition table?
* Nova Scotia only gets 91AKI as "Premium", and people complain that it is bad even as far as 91 goes. Am I just at the knock limit for my gas and need to run less boost?
* My gas is 2 years old, is it bad?

[Northern]

As the car has been blocked in the driveway for the two weeks I worked on that white car, I though about it and came to the conclusion:
* I should burn through this tank as fast as possible without doing damage to the engine, just to get fresh gas in the car.
* I should not worry about gasoline/octane being a problem until I have more reason to do so.


I spent a lot of time worrying that my IAT sensor was broken, but after a few days of messing with it, I don't think it really is.
I also thought my IAT sensor might be slower to react because I have it rethreaded and stuck in the M52 manifold.
I'm sure it is to some extent, but I don't think it is the actual root of my problems.

[Northern]

I made up my mind for now about my timing/knock issue. After talking with a few people, I decided I should just modify the base timing map to account for the IAT comp tables and I keep the factory calibration for all of that. We'll see how that works out.

After I made that change, I spent most of the 18th and 19th trying to figure out why changing my extended fuel table didn't change my lean idle at all.

Eventually I noticed that it does react normally to increases in the *original* fuel table, so I tried every previous version of the MS41.3 code and could not get it to richen up without using the original table.
Turns out it was a bug with one of the fueling references at idle, and only affects idle fueling. I'm not super knowledgeable about how the code works, but it sounds like Shake used the blank section of the MS41 partial flash to make larger 20x20 maps and changed all the pointers to these new areas, but one idle reference was missed and still referred to the old main fuel map.
He sent me an updated full flash to fix this problem and an issue with internally converting 0-5V inputs to AFR (Currently I just log Bank 2 Front O2 voltage and have Megalogviewer convert it to AFR when I open it, but that slows down the logging rate to ~7Hz, whereas if the ECU internally computes it, it gets 11Hz.
More data = more better, right?