Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey

[moosefist]

I had to daily the e36 which is not something I ever want to do again. So I was trying to get it driving asap so I could stop DDing the e36 which gets poor gas mileage, costs like $7/gal to fill it.

Details / pic's of the e36?

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Details / pic's of the e36?

check pictures on the first page, first post.

AA stage 2 supercharger, euro long tube headers, custom dual 2.25" midsection with MF resonated x pipe, UUC rsc36 catback, BBS RKs, wilwood 4 piston bbk, uuc lw flywheel, e34 m5 clutch, GC coilovers, poly bushings, eibach sways, m50 intake manifold, TSX projector retrofit, rallyroad strut bar, moroso catch can etc. I'm forgetting a lot.

[moosefist]

Whoa. Much respect. Two spectacular cars.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Whoa. Much respect. Two spectacular cars.

Thank you sir!!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

It was very dirty, I cleaned it. Not pictured.







Motor ready to dive into it's new home.






The trans got a bath





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[ian e30 318is]

The e34 pan should have a baffle and a windage tray. The baffle in the reservoir section, and the windage tray underneath the crank. I removed the e34 windage tray and re-used the e36 windage tray (better design). You probably didn't remove the baffle because that requires drilling out a rivet. The windage tray bolts on.

I took the car to two autoxs this past weekend (the car's first two events in the current setup), and the oil light did not flash at all. I also wired up a secondary oil light with the VDO oil pressure sender for a 7psi warning with an extremely bright red LED that is impossible to miss.

That said, the motor developed a tick after several back to back runs which disappeared after idling for a couple of minutes. Not sure if that's low pressure related, temp related or something else.


No I do not plan to BAR it. Too much hassle.

Yeah I was on and off about BARing my car, but I ended going and passing...now I have headers, bigger MAF, intake, 24lb injectors, etc. and can't smog the car legally anyways lol. Oh well.

I have heard the heavier weight oil will help keep the oil in the top of the engine a little better and will work well with the higher temperatures the engine will experience on a track or auto-x course. I don't have any experience with the higher weight in this situation though. I used to run Mobil 1 15W-50 and never had any issues, but never ran any track or Auto-X events. I switched to AMSOIL 10W-40 and developed a tick after 5 hard runs for about two minutes before filling the oil up half a quart which removed the noise. I've thought about running the AMSOIL 15W-50 racing oil since a place by my house has it in stock:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...code=RD50QT-EA
I might try it out when I change the oil next time.

Keep the picture updates coming!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I have heard the heavier weight oil will help keep the oil in the top of the engine a little better and will work well with the higher temperatures the engine will experience on a track or auto-x course. I don't have any experience with the higher weight in this situation though. I used to run Mobil 1 15W-50 and never had any issues, but never ran any track or Auto-X events. I switched to AMSOIL 10W-40 and developed a tick after 5 hard runs for about two minutes before filling the oil up half a quart which removed the noise. I've thought about running the AMSOIL 15W-50 racing oil since a place by my house has it in stock:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...code=RD50QT-EA
I might try it out when I change the oil next time.

Keep the picture updates coming!

Hmmm, I have a lot of both castrol 0w-40 and 0w-30 european formula. A few years ago when I bought the e36 that was what "everybody" was swearing by. The car certainly ran smoother with the castrol after I switched from the mobil 0w-40 european formula...

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Back to work. Here are some older pictures of the dis-assembly of the original e36 m52 and some of the parts I bought ages ago in anticipation of the s52 build.


Block stripped





Pile of parts





s52 rods











And the money shot - I think that might have caused a little blow by











And here are some of the piston rings....

[Sh3rpak!ng]

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[itskingsteelo]

can i be your friend ?

[Sh3rpak!ng]

can i be your friend ?

Surely. Haha


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[Sh3rpak!ng]

New hose clamps for any connections (also nice to have lying around). 14mm drill bit and 14mm OD 10mm ID needle bearings to convert all of the shifter bushings to needle bearings for a tighter shifter.
New selector rod because the old one was significantly worn (usually an overlooked component of a high mileage shifter rebuild)
PS pump hose and fitting because I forgot to take it off the PS pump from the M20 before I sold it
Condor trans bushings because I like to feel the drivetrain through my seat - also since I plan to solid mount the shifter carrier by using the older sheet metal style carrier, the trans and engine can't be flopping around




Setting up the selector rod to be twisted to match the trans slant



It looks cool



I originally thought I would use the e36 midsection and muffler that I had left over from my e36, but I found that I had been mislead by online rumors and speculation. The e36 midsection and muffler don't even come close to fitting... it would require significant modification which isn't worth it IMO. So I just decided to make my own.

Magnaflow oval 2.5 in/out muffler for the center and the vibrant satin black street power 2.5 in, dual 3" out with slash cut tips. Looks perfect on the car in terms of size, color and shape




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[Sh3rpak!ng]

I was going to buy a Y merge, but saw the price of the vibrant piece at ~$85 I decided to attempt to make my own first considering I have way more than enough tubing. I think it came out quite nicely. I used a template calculator I found online to get the right angle for the pipe cut. You print it, cut it out, wrap it around the tube, mark the cut, then CAREFULLY use an angle grinder. I also had the foresight to buy a small cheap belt sander from HF to help finish the cuts on the exhaust for perfect fitment (bought it when I did the exhaust on my e36), making the butt welds with the HF stick welder easy.









Don't mind the welding, I know it isn't pretty... I am using a HF 115v stick welder to do everything since that's all I have. I'd love to buy a decent MIG setup, but it's not in the budget - also since I haven't had any issues welding with the stick welder, I truly can't justify it yet.

This project is already way over budget at this point. The little unexpected bits and pieces are murdering me.



Started working more on the harness. Since the SAP, secondary O2s, exhaust flap, running loss valve, evap valve etc are deleted from the ecu, I wanted to delete them from the harness as well. I studied the ETMs and cut all of the unneeded wiring all the way back to the ECU connector.





Some of the harness carnage. I removed more of it later.




Originally I planned to use the stock brake booster and move it over 1/2"

That didn't come close to working. Maybe if I was running an OBDII IM it would, but with the M50 manifold, and fins shaved off, it didn't come close. So I bought a 944 booster, trimmed and threaded the rod and it works perfectly. Brakes are a little stiffer than before, but nothing a strong leg can't handle.




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[Sh3rpak!ng]

Engine Specs
(sorry I forgot to post it earlier)

- Block: bored and honed from 2.8 to 3.2L, thermally cleaned, blasted, painted, new freeze plugs, copper o-ringed for .4" wire with .1" protrusion
- Head: cleaned, pressure tested and resurfaced - otherwise stock
- S52 pistons, rods
- M54 crank
- JB racing 11lb flywheel (from an S50)
- OEM S50 clutch and PP
- full rotating assembly balanced
- new main and rod bearings
- new piston rings
- stewart water pump
- new tensioners and idlers
- all new gaskets, seals, etc.
- new chain guides
- beisan systems vanos rattle and seal repair kit
- oil pump seal and spring replaced and nut welded
- VAC oil pan baffle in the e34 pan with s/m52 oem windage tray
- JT designs oil distribution block for oil temp and pressure senders
- upgraded most of the m6 fastners to grade 12.9 - these are so easy to over torque, especially if you're reusing original bolts - just replace/upgrade them
- stock elring HG
- M50 intake manifold
- KA motors CAI
- OBDII exhaust headers (with plans to get shorty headers later)
- market motorworks DME with tune for M50 IM and all the emissions stuff deleted
- revshift green engine mounts
- new cam and crank position sensors
- deleted and capped throttle body coolant lines
- aluminum thermostat housing with 88C thermo IIRC
- N54 exhaust studs - totally worth it x100

[Sh3rpak!ng]

This was by far the most difficult and frustrating section of the exhaust fab. I cut the midsection->header flanges off some junkyard cars. Found some interesting differences. The OBD2 flanges were narrower at the flange than the OBD1 flanges, however the OBD1 tubing is smaller than the OBD2... weird. I took the two largest flanges and used a porting tool to open up the flanges to the full diameter. There are some thick diameter restricting welds from the factory on the flanges.

I also decided I didn't want to mess with spacing the subframe/spacing the swaybar/raising the engine or whatever is frequently done to gain clearance. So I cut up the OEM flanges and tubing and welded it all back together so it all cleared without any ridiculous radii and made it match up to the Y merger I already fabricated. PITA PITA PITA

After many hours of cut-trim-weld-cut up again-trim-weld-swearing-cutting-welding I finally got it to fit quite nicely. The rest of the system was pretty straight forward.





On super hot and blazing sunny days, these are wonderfully refreshing (served ice cold)





I opted to do pie cuts rather than buying mandrel bent tubing... pinching pennies. Also, it's kinda fun.

The midsection mounts were a dumb corner cutting move. I knew hard mounting to the chassis was stupid especially since I didn't add a flex section between headers and midsection. I reconfigured this later.





Muffler section done.






View from the front. Yes the middle muffler hangs low. However, the picture doesn't show how low the frame rails and oil pan are. I have yet to scrape the center muffler on anything. I smack the skid plate (not yet installed here) far before anything else.

I am contemplating replacing the slip fit joints with v-bands. The slip fits sound like they're leaking and they seem to lose their positioning after a week of driving.






View from rear.






Caught this guy skulking around. Nearly walked into it in the dark.






Mounted 30101517 16" Straight Blade Low Profile pusher Fan on the radiator. 1600 cfm should do the trick ;D






Installed the M50 fuel rail, injectors, new FPR, throttle body, ICV, and hoses on the intake manifold. On the bottom rear of the manifold you can see where I flattened the vacuum port and covered with JB weld to gain more clearance for the heater hoses coming out the firewall.

I probably installed and removed all this stuff a dozen times before I figured out the best combo of hoses and routing that didn't interfere anywhere.




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