Project Armo "330i" M-tech 1

[iXguido]

this one is just incredible http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/...m5-blue?page=6 I've referenced it a lot

[Skarpa]

That looks really good.. complex shape.
You must be having a really good time doing that!
Are you metalworking and welding professionally or is it a hobby?

Love the rust repair threads, especially from the U.K. some real artists there
I can watch the Project Binky videos forever

It's just a hobby for me. I originally studied as a carpenter but haven't really worked as one. Then I became a mechanical design engineer. Prior to this project I had zero experience in welding or bodywork but I've always done various crafting, fabricating and tinkering. I've grown to enjoy sheet metal work and bodywork quite a lot during the project and I'm already kinda pondering on next project to undertake when Armo is done. Probably something that involves more complex bodywork. I'd like to learn more and expand my skillset. Also I'd like to get a bit better equipment for metal working so I wouldn't need to do everything "on the knee" as we say in Finnish. That will, however require a more permanent garage or shop. I can get kicked out from my current one pretty much any day but it's free so I can't complain. Project Binky is indeed awesome and inspirational. My other youtube favorites include This Old Tony, MCM and The Fab Forums among others. Got any good recommendations? Or links to build threads I should check out?

[bradnic]

That looks really good.. complex shape.
You must be having a really good time doing that!
Are you metalworking and welding professionally or is it a hobby?

Love the rust repair threads, especially from the U.K. some real artists there
I can watch the Project Binky videos forever

[Skarpa]

Yesterday I fixed the bottom corners of the front valance. Before the work both looked pretty much like this:


I bent the basic stepped profile of the bottom edge and then started working on the more complicated shapes in the corner. I cut a slit and bent the lip to get the protrusion going.


Then I weld the section and cut the shape of the wheel arch and bent the lip with pliers, hammer and dolly.


The lip had a discontinuity at the bend so I welded it shut. Then I drilled and filed the hole for the front lip fixture.




I cut the patch panel into size and used that as a template to cut off the rusty section of the valance.


It turned out pretty well. With the experience from the first one it was a lot faster to make the second one and it came out even better.




I've also been assembling the diff but more on that when I actually have something to show.

[Skarpa]

I had to do a small modification for our house's roof ladder so I took them to the garage for welding. While there I got a few small jobs done as well. I made an adjustable stopper for the throttle pedal linkage using an extension nut and a bolt. I also fitted the clutch pedal switch bracket for the cruise control. I got the more sturdier version that bolts in to the pedal assembly in two points. It required much less modification than the version I had. I just need to get a switch that fits into a round hole.





I also painted the diff case, half shafts and a few other parts. Now the diff is ready to be assembled.

[Skarpa]

Nice work on the valance, looks great!

Thanks!

[alistairolsen]

Nice work on the valance, looks great!

[Skarpa]

I started fiddling with the power steering cooling loop but then I decided to leave it until the assembly stage to be sure I won't have any collisions with other stuff that's not currently in place. However, looking at the front panels I was reminded that I have a wrong type of front valance. It's a stock 316 unit so it's missing the openings for A/C and potential oil cooler. A/C front valance costs 250 euros which I didn't want to pay so I decided to make the necessary openings in the current valance. Anyway, these cars at this point are individuals and it's always easiest to have the correct fit with original body panels rather than new ones. I had a look at reference photos for the size and shape of the openings and then marked and cut them.






The edges needed to be bent inwards. I got the corners started by making dimples using a a pipe and a ball end hammer. Then I bent the straight sections using pliers. The lip is so narrow that stretching the metal is not an issue. It's not crucial to bend it all at once. In the end I finished the corners with a hammer and a piece of round bar and then straightened the lip by tapping it with a hammer and a dolly.




In the middle of the valance there is an indent and I've never quite understood why. I didn't try to do the lip completely by bending. I just cut reliefs where necessary and then finished the lip by welding.




The openings turned out fine. After finishing them I just needed to return the valance to it's original shape. Making the bends messed up with the curvature of the valance but it was pretty easy to correct. While doing that I also did a little better job at straightening the dents caused by a parking lot collision the day I bought the car. In the left end of the valance there was some rust.


I had some rear arch patch panel pieces lying around and with a little searching I found a good match for the shape in the top corner.




The bottom corner I'll need to make out of straight sheet metal.

[Skarpa]

Today I did a little exercise in metal turning and whipped out three hose barbs. One in mild steel for a custom banjo connector and two in stainless steel for the power steering cooler.


I'll make an E46-style cooling loop out of stainless steel hydraulic pipe. By default I bent the pipe double. The rest of the bends I'll need to do according to the car.


I think I'll fix it with twin Stauff clamps.


Merry christmas to everone!

[rzerob]

Your fabrication skills and attention to detail is remarkable...I enjoy following this build

Ditto.

[Skarpa]

Your fabrication skills and attention to detail is remarkable...I enjoy following this build

Thanks!

[kalib0y]

Your fabrication skills and attention to detail is remarkable...I enjoy following this build

[Skarpa]

This week project Armo turned 5 years!To celebrate I ordered the last parts I still needed. Now I have everything except for front tires and some paint supplies + nicks and nacks that come up when assembling.


Yesterday I found time to get some work done at the garage. When I was gathering stuff I laid my eyes on a hydraulic scheme that I drew of the hydroboost hoses some time ago.


Looking at the diagram I noticed that I had the power steering return line and the pump feed line mixed up when mocking up the hoses. The reservoir has four connections with one of them going through a filter. When mocking up the hoses I went with my intuition and thought that pump feed line goes through a filter and all the return lines go straight back to reservoir. But the filter should actually be in the power steering return line. That actually makes sense. We don't want any extra constriction in the pump feed line and the main flow goes through the power steering circuit so that's the best place for the filter. With this information I had to mock up the hoses once more.


The connections are actually located more conveniently now. Only thing I'm not quite happy with is the shortness of the power steering return hose. The hose should have enough flex to react to engine vibration and movement. In the worst case scenario the engine movement will start loosening up the banjo connector but that remains to be seen. I need to weld a shortest possible hose barb to the banjo to have a maximum possible hose length. To avoid problems I could put in a longer hose with a loop to have enough flex or possibly install a cooler for the fluid which would take care of the hose length problem as well.


As the main undertaking of the evening I installed the modified throttle pedal linkage. First I welded in the repositioned left support.


I test fitted the linkage and marked the spot for throttle cable pass through and made a square hole in the firewall.




In the pedal assembly frame I made a larger hole to give space for the plastic tabs.


The linkage fits exactly as it should and has a plenty movement without hitting the steering column.

https://anttikarppinen.kuvat.fi/kuvat/E30+Armo/E23+Hydroboost+brake+booster/MOV_0161.mp4

Next time I need to take the throttle pedal with me and make an adjustable stopper for the pedal top position.

[Skarpa]

But as always, one modification leads to another. The new booster location blocks the hole for the throttle cable and the throttle linkage will not fit any more.

As you may remember I hit this snag when doing the brake booster relocation. The relocation is complete apart from modifying the throttle pedal linkage. If you haven't noticed I like designing stuff and doing cad work (hence my profession as a design engineer). I whipped up a 3D model of the existing linkage.


Then I designed the necessary changes to fit the linkage in the car.


It will be shortened 47 mm to clear the clutch main cylinder. Existing throttle lever will be cut off and there's a new one on top of the steering column which will place the firewall pass through next to the brake booster.

I assumed that the bent main shaft of the linkage is tube so I turned a small length of 10 mm round bar to locate the ends of the shortened shaft and my new lever before welding them

(Talk about economic choice of raw stock :D)

I had the new lever laser cut.


Before cutting up the linkage I made a jig that keeps the parts in the correct orientation.


Then I cut the linkage. It turned out that the shaft is not tube but solid bar. I had to use a small pin to keep the parts positioned and make a centering sleeve for the lever.


Then I propped everything up for welding.


Turned out good. Hope it also fits the car. Of course I need to cut off the old lever to get it there.


Small job made overly complicated but I wanted to make sure there wont be any snagging because of crooked shaft or anything like that.

[Skarpa]

Yesterday when I went to garage it was a bit nasty surprise when the view was this:

Power was down also in the neighbouring houses. I get to build the car rarely so I decided to not let that hinder me. After all I have a flashlight and luckily I didn't need power for the stuff I had planned.

I continued fiddling with the hydraulic hoses. I cut off the fittings from the old hoses and tried to think of ways to get around the problematic non-available fittings. (such as a M16 elbow banjo connector for ID 16mm hose) I was still left with a couple of question marks but I'm sure we'll find solutions for those once I take the parts to the hose shop. If necessary, I'll weld suitable combinations together.







Luckily I have several different hydro boost systems in various levels of completeness so I could pick the fittings that best suited my needs. Once I had the hoses figured out I still had some time left so I had a look at the battery tray in the trunk. I don't think I'll need a huge battery in a summer car and the tray didn't have fixing holes for smaller batteries.


I drilled the hole and tried to insert a nut rivet in it using a washer as a backing plate. However, it was too thick for the rivet nut and it wouldn't swell properly under the washer so I secured it with a couple of weld tacks. No it's well bonded in to the plastic as well by melting.