Project Armo "330i" M-tech 1

[Skarpa]

It's weird how you keep buying things for the project but the end result is always the same: you still need a shitload of stuff. I made a list of all the bits and bobs I still need to buy to have the car running next summer. I ended up with number 3000 euros (equal to $) + painting + 6-speed gearbox I just bought from ebay. Still, I think I should be able to finance it. Besides, this is still a cheap hobby car compared to those turbo monsters. I haven't skimped on the stuff but there are no expensive performance parts either.

[Skarpa]

Before painting the rear face I wanted to check that everything fits nicely. The original trunk lid was rusty so I replaced it with a better one. The gap on the right side of the lid was a tad too narrow but slight bending on the right rear quarter fixed that.




When mocking up the tail light I noticed there was rust on the tail light frame. I cut it off and bent a new piece of steel for the spot. It wasn't very easy one since there are two bends side by side and the whole piece is curved in every way. I managed okay but I should have made it from a few pieces.




While I was welding I decided to plug the antenna hole and cut off a small rust hole at the base of the C pillar.






I didn't weld the C pillar yet. I need to think about it a bit. It's a tight spot and it will be hard to properly clean the welds from the backside. Also there's a seam of rubbery seal that will burn when welding. I guess there might not be any magic tricks for that spot though. I have some access to it so I'll be able to clean most of it with a straight grinder and then just stab paint in there with a brush. Probably I will then fill in the missing sealant.

When I was done with that stuff I painted the bare spots in the body and the rear face. Next time I should be able to install the rear face.

[Skarpa]

ive had to do what you've done before except to a whole car, tubs, underbody and all.


easiest way I found was using paint stripper (even on the underbody coating) and flicking it off with a wire brush on an angle grinder.. Cup and conventional style and also knot wire brush as well for the angry stuff. I was surprised to see that the paint stripper just lifted the rubber coating off. smaller tight areas (corners) I would use a long nose style wire brush on a drill and push it around.

I haven't actually tried paint stripper on the undercoating. If you say it works well I will probably test it. There are still areas that I need to clean: front tubs, driveshaft tunnel etc. I will do new undercoating and paint the whole underside. There's this black non-over-paintable tar on top of the original undercoating and it doesn't seem to be removable without removing undercoating.

[Skarpa]

Mm

Great job on every aspect :up: Just wondering why did you glue the wheel arches instead of welding? With your skills it wouldn't have been a problem I think. I'm just very sceptical about glueing parts if you need to spackle it afterwards... :)

Thanks! Sure, I've learnt a thing or two about welding during the project but I'm no master. I'm still learning to control the heat distortion when welding. That's why I still feel unsure welding parts that will be visible afterwards and that is the main reason why I used glue on the wheel arches. Most of the time when I've glued parts, It's been because of corrosion prevention but on this case it's to make sure the panels stay straight.

I believe glued parts should be okay. I will remove all the glue that was left on the surfaces because you can't paint on glue. Then I will apply metal or glass fiber filler in the seam and then do normal preparation for painting. Time will tell how the seams will look in a while but this is not the first car in the world with glued body parts. For example m4kk3's rear arches have been done the same way I did mine:

[bangn]

ive had to do what you've done before except to a whole car, tubs, underbody and all.


easiest way I found was using paint stripper (even on the underbody coating) and flicking it off with a wire brush on an angle grinder.. Cup and conventional style and also knot wire brush as well for the angry stuff. I was surprised to see that the paint stripper just lifted the rubber coating off. smaller tight areas (corners) I would use a long nose style wire brush on a drill and push it around.

[Miuge]

Great job on every aspect :up: Just wondering why did you glue the wheel arches instead of welding? With your skills it wouldn't have been a problem I think. I'm just very sceptical about glueing parts if you need to spackle it afterwards... :)

[pilotskillse30]

Bravo...bravo! Amazing work!

[Skarpa]

Gas bottle inspections take a long time here so I got a disposable bottle to get on with the job.

EDIT: Pretty useless bottle. gas only lasts for a very short while.

I ground down the seams in the spare wheel well repair.




And then welded screws for the frame beam heat shield.


I drilled off the end flange of frame beam, tackled all the rust with wire wheel and phosphoric acid, straightened the piece and welded it back on.




I also removed the storage paint from the rear face and I was going to primer everything but I had to leave the garage before that. Hope it doesn't catch much rust before the next time. (the garage is pretty dry, stuff doesn't usually rust that fast)

[Skarpa]

I returned from my holiday trip to Calgary and San Francisco and finished welding the daily driver for yearly inspection so it was finally time to return to the hobby car. Although I spent half of the time cleaning garage but it sure was nice to work after that. I continued cleaning the area around the driver's side frame beam and cut off the exhaust pipe brackets. There was just sufrace rust under them, nothing nasty. I'll make new brackets according to the E36 exhaust. The frame beam heat shield will need new studs in the frame beam.


Before I install the rear face I needed to tackle some rust in the rear of the spare wheel well.


I cut off the rust and replaced the area with new sheet metal. No picture of finished work, though.


Before I get to install the rear face I need to take off the frame beam rear flange, remove any rust, weld it back on and do some painting. I just need more welding gas and need to figure out the cheapest way to do so since the inspection on the loan bottle I have is out of date and I don't want to pay for the expensive inspection to have it refilled.

[JeLani]

Rs will be worth more than rc's in the long run, good decision, my rc's landed in front of me & cant wait to run them. I still have a ton of parts to collect & start building the m52 but it includes a 24lb injector s50 chip tuned ecu.


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[Skarpa]

Our builds have too much in common: rc090's and 3 litre m52's hahaha


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Actually I'm going to sell the RC:s. I built 16" RS:s for this car. You can find them in posts #14 and #15. But thanks for the tip, I'll be following your build with interest.

[JeLani]

Our builds have too much in common: rc090's and 3 litre m52's hahaha


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[Skarpa]

Driver's side wheel arch is now glued in place. With the experience from the passenger's side it went a lot smoother. Now I'm down to two major body parts: the rear face and the cross member for diff mounting but those will be left for august because on tuesday I'm leaving for a two-week trip to North America to represent our small country in the wonderful sport of roller derby.


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[Skarpa]

Wow, this awesome! Can't believe I missed this before. Amazing work

Thanks!

[ADOPEWITASCOPE]

Wow, this awesome! Can't believe I missed this before. Amazing work