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85 323i grey market euro - M tech 1 build.

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    When I first bought my car the PO had the auxiliary fan on all the time but no switch. He ran a wire under the dash and had a hook on the end that he wrapped around a bolt. The wire was the ground side so hooking it to the bolt completed the circuit.

    The temp gauge didn't work either. It was a scary 6 hr trip home. I kept imagining the engine blowing up. Needless to say I fixed it when I got home. And that wasn't even the worst of it.
    How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611


    Could be better, could be worse.

    Comment


      After driving the car around with the temps being perfectly fine, it decided to overheat on the way to work. Water is boiling out of the expansion tank through the cap, the upper radiator hose is then empty. Seems to be a circulation problem or massive air pocket or both.

      Found out the shop had the heater hoses switched...big surprise there. Seems everything they have done was done wrong. I now have heat and am certain coolant is circulating through the core. Hopefully I can get rid of the air pockets now. I bled the system with the front end in the air. I fill the system through the upper radiator hose per the forum but the water ends up boiling over again, as if the thermostat closed. Upon inspection, the shop installed some Motorad thermostat without an O ring (ugggghhhhhh) . No part number, no arrows or air bleed holes. Going to order up an OEM thermostat and O ring but in the meantime I'm going to delete the thermostat to see if it's the culprit. I'm at a loss right now. Never had such a hard time with the cooling system on my other BMW's.
      "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

      85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
      88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
      89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
      91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

      Comment


        don't delete the thermostat, it's a bypass cutoff style and removing it doesn't force flow through the radiator.
        cars beep boop

        Comment


          You can test the thermostat in boiling water. Don't delete it. I recommend the 88C version.

          I'm sorry to see this mystery shop did you so wrong on this build though man!
          BimmerHeads
          Classic BMW Specialists
          Santa Clarita, CA

          www.BimmerHeads.com

          Comment


            Deleting is only temporary. I wanted to see what thermostat was installed and if it was installed correctly. I will block test the engine tomorrow and go from there. Something is up with this engine. I suspect a headgasket or cracked head. Pretty confident it's not a simple case of air pockets.
            "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

            85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
            88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
            89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
            91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

            Comment


              Okay so I installed a new 88C Facet thermostat and seal, used all of the bleeding methods I've found online except for pressure bleeding and could never get the water to stop boiling over. Yet, I see many people running the M42 radiator so I'm not sure what to make of it. Frustrated, I just decided to go with an E36 CSF aluminum radiator and late model coolant reservoir.





              The CSF radiator quality is impressive. The welds and finish are nice. I installed it, ran it and it does a good job of keeping the temps in check. It only got over the half mark while sitting still at idle which is to be expected. I didn't install the fan yet because it'll be getting an R134A AC conversion in the near future. Anyway, it appears my cooling troubles are over but I want to drive the car more to make sure. As luck would have it, the elbow on the clutch master decided to give up so I have a clutch master job to do next.
              "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

              85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
              88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
              89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
              91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

              Comment


                how much different is the orientation of the inlet and outlet of that radiator? For 255.55 it's a good looking radiator, but wouldn't want to buy it if the M20 could match it.

                Comment


                  Originally posted by jeenyus View Post
                  how much different is the orientation of the inlet and outlet of that radiator? For 255.55 it's a good looking radiator, but wouldn't want to buy it if the M20 could match it.
                  It's the full width of the frame rails so I had to use an M50 upper hose vs the cut version for the M42 radiator. The late model M20 radiator is fine or so I've heard but I wanted to go beyond stock and was impressed with CSF. Much of that decision was based on the fact that I just want to finish this car already so I can enjoy it.
                  "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                  85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                  88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                  89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                  91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

                  Comment


                    Update: engine temps are stable, no more boiling over due to problems bleeding the system and installing the late model expansion tank is a breeze. I do like the idea of having a coolant level sensor again too.

                    I'm finally able to press forward to the clutch master elbow. Turns out it was reinstalled facing the opposite direction and snapped. I installed a new elbow and hose but the generic clutch master the shop installed started binding and making a clicking noise. The last time I encountered this problem the rod snapped on me so I installed a new FTE clutch master. I tried to suction bleed the slave cylinder but the nut on the valve is slightly stripped (sigh), making it hard to tell if it was open or closed. After a few days of failed attempts, I gave in and bought a Motive Power Bleeder. It's yet another tool, I should have gotten a long time ago. After pumping up the pressure to 20PSI or so, I finally got the air out and I now have a clutch again. Drove the car around a few days and all is good but with my luck, I'm going to give it a week of driving around the neighborhood before taking it in for the exhaust work.


                    Unbelievable.
                    Last edited by reelizmpro; 08-10-2019, 07:16 PM.
                    "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                    85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                    88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                    89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                    91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

                    Comment


                      So happy to hear you're working out all the bugs Barry.

                      I can't imagine going through these headaches, after all the excitement of getting a swap car, you actually wanted it done to .
                      @IRON-E30 aka Edwin:D

                      Comment


                        Today was the first time in a while, I felt great driving this car. Got the entire exhaust system redone and tucked up higher so it's not scraping everywhere. Only regret is not going with a larger rear muffler because it is loud with the 24v. Not unbearable but loud. Some updated pics of the new system and the car. Next is figuring out why it's only charging at 12.8V even when revving up. Seems too low, even with the 80A alternator. It should be 13.1-13.7v while running. Any thoughts?

                        8/12/19: New voltage regulators for the S52 are $140! Good thing I found aftermarket replacements IB385, Bosch PN 1 197 311 238 for $20. Anyway, I pulled the regulator and noticed a lot of gunk inside and around the alternator. Also noticed some on the contacts of the voltage regulator. I cleaned it up and did the diode mod for an extra half volt thinking this would bump it upto 13.3-13.4v but I ended up getting 14.9v! I went from too little voltage to too much. After removing the diode, cleaning everything up and reinstalling, I finally got 13.8-14.1v. Now the windows work as they should whereas before the windows would barely roll up or not roll up at all. So if you have some electrical problems, check your alternator/battery voltage before troubleshooting.









                        Last edited by reelizmpro; 08-12-2019, 10:23 PM.
                        "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                        85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                        88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                        89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                        91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

                        Comment


                          So I've been driving the car the last few months and observed coolant loss without any leakage. It's not mixing with the oil either, at least doesn't appear to be. Block test confirmed my suspicions of bad head gasket or cracked head/block as I have exhaust gases in the cooling system as well. Looks like the head will have to come off but for now I can still drive around if I keep adding water. So I'm debating how to proceed since the ship that did the swap is incompetent so there's no way in hell I'd let them touch the car again let alone change the headgasket.

                          In hopes of finally taking the car to it's first show since I've owned it going on 3 years now, I started reupholstering the front seats. I've heard good things about Lseat covers and at $299 for the front seats, they are well priced for leather covers. Originally I was going to dye my old blue covers black but since the drivers bolster is torn on one of the seats, it made more sense to put new black covers on.



                          One of the things that always bothered me about reupholstered seats is how taut or bulky/puffy the cushions appear to be. These covers, like most aftermarket covers have a foam backing stitched behind them while the originals do not. I opted to cut the foam away from the bolsters.






                          I have no prior experience with upholstery work but I thought I'd give it a try since most places want $150-200 a seat just to install the covers. It's very tedious work getting it fitted just right and cutting holes in the right places for the mechanisms and handles but it's well worth the time spent. I should have both seats done by next week or so. Stay tuned...
                          Last edited by reelizmpro; 10-07-2019, 01:03 AM.
                          "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                          85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                          88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                          89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                          91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

                          Comment


                            I'm sure you'll get the seats looking great. The seat cushioning depresses with time and the foam or waddle in reupholstered seats is to counter this and to make sure the upholstery material doesn't hang loose but I agree with you, it's often overdone.
                            Last edited by Skarpa; 10-07-2019, 05:38 AM.
                            E30 Armo "330i"

                            Comment


                              Refreshing the seats will make such a difference, especially to a car as nice as yours is already. Once you have the leather all secured and can get 90% of the wrinkles out just by fastening it tight, use a heat gun or a hair dryer to smooth out the last little bit, works really well to take your seats from backyard DIY to near professional level appearance. Will be very rewarding when you're done.

                              Man I love the look of a clean MTech 1
                              Albie

                              '86 325e Zinnoberrot /// '02 325ci Schwarz II /// '18 M4 Azurite Black Metallic ///

                              Albie325 Build Thread | Albie325 Feedback | Albie's M4 European Delivery

                              Comment


                                Yeah it's been a great experience. I'm very happy with how they turned out. There are still creases from the vacuum sealed packaging but I've read I can steam them out. Anyway, here's one finished seat...one more to go.



                                Most people will just reuse the backboards or paint them but the LSeat kit comes with a new leather piece which is a nice touch and will complete the look of the seat.

                                "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                                85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                                88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                                89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                                91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

                                Comment

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