'89 318i 6 speed m50b32tu turbo swap build

[ba114]

FWIW, the F1/FX racing stuff comes with 10.9 bolts as well. No problems yet.

Interesting. Do you remember how long they were?

[Northern]

FWIW, the F1/FX racing stuff comes with 10.9 bolts as well. No problems yet.

[ba114]

Tell me about it. Also interesting is the kit came with 10.9 grade bolts...from what I've read 10.9 have a max torque of 83ftlb which is very close to the 77ftlb required for the flywheel.

Not surprising they gave out if that's the case!

[Northern]

Actually ridiculous after everything that those bolts were too short. You couldn't make this shit up if you tried

[ba114]

Today's efforts:
- made a bracket to fit the 325i overflow bottle. Thanks to a rev member on fb, the measurements for the upper clip is roughly 4" from the inner guard to the bolt that secures it and roughly 4" down from the strut tower.



- refitted reinforced subframe, and steering rack,
- fitted new valve cover gasket and valve cover,
- mounted turbo manifold,
- started fitting the flywheel and whilst torqueing the bolts half on them stripped...seemingly due to not enough thread engagement. My heart sank at the thought of the crank threads being destroyed but after running a thread chaser through they appear fine. Need to find longer bolts now though...



The bolts supplied with the fx250 clutch kit and flywheel are only 30mm long. theres 40mm of depth till you bottom out on the crank. as you can see from the pics, the bolts were only getting engagement up to around the 3rd or 4th thread. pretty sure this is insufficient, or the supplied bolts (10.9 grade) were just no good.

Going on the hunt for some 35mm bolts on monday to hopefully get this sorted. for now its just occupying a car space in the garage now. Cant believe the issues ive had with this engine build...

[ba114]

Made some solid progress last night.
Got the head back on. It was nerve wracking after my last experience, but i'm happy to say all looks good now :)

After torquing the raceware studs to 42ft-lb per the specs (yes this is considerably lower than ARP but it's what they say) i started re-assembly.

Started with the exhaust cam, just the standard m50tu/M52 exhaust cam, then started on the intake cam. For this i am using an M54b30 intake cam for the additional lift and duration (M54b30 is 240deg 9.7mm lift, stock is 228deg 9mm lift). To fit this required removing the vanos gear from the cam and shaving it down about 5mm before putting it back in. Big thanks to Nutzy who turned this down on the lathe for me! I grabbed the cam tray, bearing caps, sprocket etc from the m54 so this was all used instead of the m50tu/m52 hardware.


Once the cams were back in i started reassembly of the timing gear. Again all pretty straight forward if you have a bentley manual and took the time to mark the sprockets and chains when you removed them. There is also a great video on youtube that runs through the process:

https://youtu.be/23jXHhkpV_I

Installing the vanos was pretty painless. I installed and removed it a couple of times just to make sure i had the process sorted before bolting it all up.

Once done i put the sump back on (had already safety wired the oil pump nut) and started putting all the ancillaries back on; oil filter housing, power steering pump, alternator, new water pump with 80c thermostat and finally the serpentine belt.




Tonight i'll drop the engine from the stand and mount up the clutch setup in preparation for fitting the 6 speed. I'm waiting on my akg poly engine mounts to arrive (decided against using the e28 ones after reinforcing my subframe) so wont fit the gearbox till im ready to drop it all in. Hopefully this is all over the xmas period so i can finally start it up and work on tuning.

[ba114]

Finally got the head back from the workshop. Just had it skimmed and the valves lapped.

Looking good to go full steam ahead for re-assembly!




Also grabbed an intake cam from an M54b30 to swap in. Will work on getting the vanos gear turned down 5mm so it will fit.

[ba114]

Finally ordered and received my clutch setup from vivid racing. To anyone needing something quickly, they got it to me in Australia in 4 days, that's just astounding! Couldn't be happier.

Anyway, I've gone with the clutch masters fx250 with steel flywheel. I wanted something with a bit more weight to it than aluminium to try avoid too much chatter.

The fx250 uses a combination of Button on one side and a heavy-duty Steel Back Organic on the other. Im hoping this should have enough holding capacity while still be street friendly.

[ba114]

Started getting the PCV side of the setup worked out. I'll be running the stock PCV valve into the intake manifold when under vacuum, and through a catch can back to the turbo inlet when under boost. To get things started i modified the stock M52 PCV valve to incorporate a check valve to prevent boost blowing through.

Cut the end off the PCV valve that normally mounts into the manifold, cut the barbed ends off the check valve, glued it in and re-fitted to the manifold. Simple but should hopefully do the job.

[ba114]

Video of the confirmed changes:

https://youtu.be/Phu7yTHUVtc

[ba114]

Finished setting up my rolling anti-lag implementation yesterday.

Fairly simple implementation:
1. Cut the grey wire going to the IAT

2. Relay wiring
Pin 30 - connect to the grey IAT wire that is still connected to the ECU.
Pin 87a - connect to the grey IAT wire that is still connected to the IAT sensor.
Pin 85 - connect to a ground wire with a switch in it.
Pin 86 - connect to any red/white wire for 12v.
Pin 87 - connect a 60k ohm resistor and then wire tap this into the grey/brown IAT sensor wire.

What this will do is intercept the IAT sensor reading and send a -25c temperature reading to the ECU.

Then you just need to adjust the flash so that your correction tables will retard timing when the IAT sensor is -25c.

I haven't tested this on a running car, however was testing in the garage while logging and on ACC and confirmed that i didnt throw any CELs.

[ba114]

3bar MAP sensor mounted to fuse box.
Cut up a spare relay holder from an old harness so that I could mount it to the map sensor and have it clip onto the stock relay clip on the fuse box.

[ba114]

Yep both banks. I have AFR on bank 1 rear O2 and MAP on bank 2.
For front O2s that's the STFTs. LTFT is available but don't see the point in live monitoring or logging.

[Northern]

Have bank 1 lambda integrator set up too?

[ba114]

Are you planning to use torque pro to log instead of rrlogger?

Possibly, Given some of the useful stuff like the maf tuning components of rrlogger don't work. I need to try find the pids for the knock sensors so I can add them in too.