'89 318i 6 speed m50b32tu turbo swap build

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  • ba114
    replied
    New donor car collected. 325i with m50b25tu. Paid AUD$400 which is roughly USD $0.50c.

    No more aluminium block.
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  • Northern
    replied
    Originally posted by ba114
    Living where i live is not conducive to building anything. Basic supplies such as this that you would be able to find in seemingly any other major city (i live in the capital city of Australia however its only 300k people) just aren't available here, increasing both time and cost. /Rant
    Same story as living here in Halifax (~400k), I couldn't find NGK BKR6E plugs when I first swapped my M52, and just yesterday I went everywhere looking for BKR7E and had just as much luck, so I ordered them off amazon and I'll run the BKR6E's until then.

    I probably could've gotten some "xtreme iridium platinum 4x v groove" shit, but my objective is spark, not to never have to change my spark plugs again on my econobox.

    Sure there are a few random individuals who have their own "business" and sell all this shit locally, but if you've never met them, you're SOL and have to order online (and its not like they keep stock on hand, so you're waiting either way)


    Also, failed timesert and that massive crack? what the hell.

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  • ba114
    replied
    Originally posted by pazi88
    That's not caused by timesert. It's because of those stud bults you are using. The alu-block can't handle those (that's why ARP doesn't even have bolts for alu-block). Next time use only use stock headbolts. Those can handle 500-600 hp. If you wan't more, then switch to cast iron block with stud bolts.
    This was the recommended setup from VAC motorsports...

    Have found an e36 325i (M50) for dirt cheap with 180k kms on it so i'll be swapping that one in instead. Bonus is it's an auto, which i needed a tailshaft from anyway in order to complete the 6spd swap so it's not all bad.

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  • pazi88
    replied
    That's not caused by timesert. It's because of those stud bults you are using. The alu-block can't handle those (that's why ARP doesn't even have bolts for alu-block). Next time use only use stock headbolts. Those can handle 500-600 hp. If you wan't more, then switch to cast iron block with stud bolts.

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  • ba114
    replied
    And we have the culprit. Seems despite my tests, the block was somehow too soft in one place (maybe) because the cause of the crack was a timesert stripped from the block and pulled up into the head.

    Very strange, I've never read of timeserts failing before. All the others were perfect.
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  • ba114
    replied
    Originally posted by SSR-125
    Build is looking nice! Great progress. The only thing I am recommending is that you put RTV sealant on the top of the timing cover. Not a lot so it squeezes out but just a light coating because they are known to leak oil in that spot. I've been there and done that.. so I'm telling you to save you in the future lol. However the picture you just posted of the cylinder head is quite strange...
    I should have mentioned i did put a VERY light coat of RTV over the seam where the timing cover meets the head as i'd read about the leaking.

    The cracking however is nowhere near this.

    In other news i appear to have found 2x M52 short blocks and a head to go with them. Just hope it doesnt cost too much to ship them across the country

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  • sam_
    replied
    wtf dude im sorry that's awful

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  • SSR-125
    replied
    Build is looking nice! Great progress. The only thing I am recommending is that you put RTV sealant on the top of the timing cover. Not a lot so it squeezes out but just a light coating because they are known to leak oil in that spot. I've been there and done that.. so I'm telling you to save you in the future lol. However the picture you just posted of the cylinder head is quite strange...

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    wtf....? I have never seen than happen before

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  • ba114
    replied
    This morning before work i performed a final check to see whether they'd held torque overnight. The first few were all still to spec, however when i got to about number 7, it had loosened slightly and on attempting to re-torque, the nut made a slipping/cracking feeling before the torque wrench clicked. This didn't sit well with me so i walked around to take a look at the head where this bolt goes through...

    I think this picture speaks for itself

    FML. After waiting nearly 3 months to start putting the engine back together, this head now goes in the bin when i get home from work today and i commence searching for either another engine, or a donor car to start all over again. more delays!
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  • ba114
    replied
    Got home after work last night and decided it was time to get cracking on reassembly.
    started off by spraying a light coating of copper spray on both sides of the spacer and laid it down on the block, followed by the gasket and cutrings.

    I then removed all studs bar the 2 that go through the dowels so that it would be easier to drop the head down and align it.

    Got the head down, tied the timing chain out of the way again and started putting the studs back in. The instructions say to wind them in until they bottom out lightly, and not to double nut and try to tighten down, so thats what i did. so far so good. Click here to enlarge

    I then commenced the torquing sequence, 20ft/lb, then 40ft/lb and then finally 55ft/lb. I left it this way overnight and decided to check back in the morning.





    Attached Files

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  • ba114
    replied
    Finally! the copper gasket spray arrived in the mail today so will be able to start putting the engine back together tonight hopefully.

    Living where i live is not conducive to building anything. Basic supplies such as this that you would be able to find in seemingly any other major city (i live in the capital city of Australia however its only 300k people) just aren't available here, increasing both time and cost. /Rant
    Attached Files

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  • ba114
    replied
    Originally posted by Northern
    Looking good!

    I'm really interested to see how the antilag turns out. I would've never thought to use the IAT comp tables for that.

    I think I saw that you swapped to 41.2 with 2.8 maps? Did you end up changing the full flash load limit to 2048kg/hr? I read the basic instructions in that thread, but I don't understand any of what they meant. Going to send you a PM on that...
    Yep i posted a MS41.2 rom that i converted with all the MS41.0 defined maps over on the other forum. should be a good starting point but would need some more changes for it to be useful on a euro M52 like disabling misfire detection. This is all defined in the xml i shared with you, hopefully the descriptions make sense.

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  • Northern
    replied
    Looking good!

    I'm really interested to see how the antilag turns out. I would've never thought to use the IAT comp tables for that.

    I think I saw that you swapped to 41.2 with 2.8 maps? Did you end up changing the full flash load limit to 2048kg/hr? I read the basic instructions in that thread, but I don't understand any of what they meant. Going to send you a PM on that...

    Leave a comment:


  • ba114
    replied
    Picked up the head today (finally!) after being gone for 3 months...

    nothing major done, just had it skimmed and had new stem seals fitted. Soon as the copper spray arrives i'll be fitting it up!
    Attached Files

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