'89 318i 6 speed m50b32tu turbo swap build

[ba114]

Finished up surfacing the block and fitted the raceware studs. They sit taller above the deck than the standard bolts if bolted all the way in. Unsure on how deep they're usually inserted though.

Nowhere in my city seems to stock copper spray so I'm waiting on that to come in the mail before fitting the copper spacer, gasket and cut rings and the head.

Hopefully the tax return is kind to me this year so I can buy my clutch setup and finally fit this thing. Looking at getting the clutch masters fx250 setup.

[ba114]

A present finally arrived today from the UK after 2.5 months of sea transport.
GS6-37DZ - 6 Speed from a 320d

[ba114]

Have been spending some development time on tuning software to get some stuff sorted once its finally time to put the engine in; Specifically, rolling anti-lag.

Essentially what i need to do, is configure the scenario where the IAT reads approx 4.8v regardless of what the actual temperature. 4.8v relates to -30 degrees Celsius on the sensor scaling. By triggering this event, it will look up against the related tables in the flash, and attempt to target -30degrees timing from 327mg/stk load upwards.

I have a rudimentary circuit that i'm not happy with so i'm going back to the drawing board to come up with a more refined version.

In the mean time, if anyone knows whether the DME will throw an error if >5v is fed to IAT sensor that would speed the process up considerably and i could just scale the table to -40c (5v) and be done with it.

[ba114]

So I finished timeserting the block finally. Still need to spend a bit of time on the finish; there's a few highs and lows to take care of but after a couple of mishaps, I'm glad it's all over and done with.

[ba114]

As planned, i spent some time sorting out the wiring inside the car yesterday. It's always bugged me that i could find a selection of different wires and fuse holders under the steering wheel but never knowing what they were for.

First up, i found the remnants of what used to be a nokia car kit/speaker/control box etc up under the dash. assorted wires were tapped into the brake light switch and i found a cigarette lighter socket wired in above the glovebox that seemed to be providing power to it. Removed all that crap!

Next up was behind the radio. I'd previously neglected to hookup the illumination wire for my CD43 for when the lights are on, so fixed that up. While i was in there i also discovered the wiring for the aircon aux fan. The PO had tapped into the yellow wire in pin 3 (i think) of the re-circ/aircon switch and run that out through the firewall, and added a new relay and fused battery wire that runs to the aux fan. Not entirely sure why they did this. This pin seemed to always have power while in RUN (not sure about ACC) so presumably it meant the fan was always on? maybe the resistor in the AUX fan is shot. at any rate, i didnt like this wiring so i've removed it and will troubleshoot what is or isn't working when i get things back together.
Note: I first had issues with none of my fan controls receiving power so i had trouble testing the above. Troubleshooted K7 and K5 relays, fuses etc. To anyone else trying to test mirrors, fan controls etc while doing an engine swap, they will not work until you ground the eyelet connector of the engine harness that goes to the unloader relays. This would normally ground through the starter motor unless the engine is cranking. This is a black wire with a green stripe. Test for continuity from pin 15 of your x20 to confirm the right eyelet connector.

Also took the time to replace my window switches. The switch for the passenger side didn't have working backlights. upon removal, it was different to every other switch i have in my possession. Still had 5 pins, but were all in a row as opposed to staggered layout. The harness appears to have been hacked on both driver and passenger sides as the wiring was not to female plugs, but rather female spade connectors. Pretty sure i have some spares of these plugs lying around that i salvaged from the scrap car so will fix that up too. For the mean time i replaced both window switches with some from my scraps that were in better condition and can gladly say i now have fully functioning, backlit window switches.

Finally, i located the black female connector under the steering column with two wires in it. Thick black with red stripe, and black with violet stripe. The Black/Violet wire runs to the aircon switch and fed 12V when the aircon button is depressed. This needs to be wired into the MS41 ecu to enable idle bump when aircon is on.

Wired up a basic relay that taps this 12v source straight to pin 19 on the MS41 harness, and at the same time, activates a relay to ground pin 16 of the MS41 harness per the attached picture. This then tells the ECU to ground pin 74 to pin 85 of the compressor control relay. As the e30 harness already does this, this shouldn't need to be hooked up.

[ba114]

Still nothing much to report. Funds are low and waiting on parts (due in july) has left me de-motivated.

Last weekend, just to spend some time with her, I decided I'd fit up the e34 bowden cable, wire in the plug for the cluster temp and fix up my brake pedal.

Doing the Bowden was pretty easy, push out the hook and rubber grommet from the pedal, bash the plastic that holds it to the firewall till it snaps and then pull out through the engine bay. Installation was obviously the reverse (other than bashing the clips). One thing I noticed though was there is a foam grommet around the plastic firewall clip on the e34 cable. This prevented it from clicking in properly. I had to remove it to get a solid fit.



Cluster temp connector was done through cutting pins 1 and 2 from the round, dual temp connector in the e36 harness. Pin 1 should be brown/violet. I pulled this back up through the loom tubing slightly and then back out the tubing. Soldered and heatshrinked this to the single wire temp connector I'd removed from the m40 loom and capped off the wiring from pin 2 cut earlier.



Last off all, after fitting up the Renault Clio booster, the clevis was about 3mm shorter than the E30. This resulted in the brake pedal no longer returning all the way and causing the lights to come on intermittently. On RHD cars the pedal is connected to the booster via a threaded rod that runs along the firewall. This rod can be twisted to adjust where the pedal sits. Very convenient! Just undid the locking nut (17mm), and twisted the rod until the brake lights turned off and tightened the locking nut.

This weekend is a long weekend. During my adventures under the dash with the brakes I discovered lots of loose wiring and other things that don't look quite right. If I get motivated I might pull the dash and do a clean up...maybe.

[ba114]

I'd thought about doing that, but with so much still undefined, I'm not sure everything needed to cater for the difference between aluminium and iron blocks, and CPS differences exists yet.

I'll try 41.1 and 41.2 (with tables copied from ms41.1) and see how things go

[Northern]

Glad you figured it all out and working. I still need to wire up an OBD2 port for my glovebox.

I found that MS41.2 seems to get the most attention on romraider, vanos adjustments and launch control sounded cool, so I ended up converting my ecu to 41.2 and just copied the 41.1 fuel/timing maps over. Runs great like that.

[Prewer]

Great to see another AUS E30 conversion in the making!

[ba114]

Sorted out the OBD2 port issue.

First of all, it seems MS41.0 is not OBD2 thus no matter what, you wont be able to use normal OBD2 readers/loggers to scan it.

Once that was sorted out, i made a bench flasher:
DME pin 88 - OBD2 pins 7&8
DME pin 28 - OBD2 pins 4&5
DME pin 26 - OBD2 pin 16
External 12v source to DME 26, 49 & 60.

This FINALLY worked for allowing me to read/write the new flashable MS41.0 (1432401) DME i bought.
Once i flashed it to MS41.1, i could now connect and read fault codes using my bluetooth ELM OBD dongle and the torque pro app. The same applied for MS41.2.
Flashing back to MS41.0 resulted in no longer being able to connect.

Looks like i'll be sticking with MS41.1 for a '98 Z3 2.8 as they also ran the aluminium block and the front mounted CPS as opposed to the internally/rear mounted CPS on other M52 based engines.

I then wired up the OBD port in the car to test reading/writing. No go. Would not connect again. Bashed my head against the wall for a bit and then figured id try reading without the diag port cover on. YEP, could connect with the cover off. Put it back on, instant disconnection.

After checking MS41.0 and MS41.1 ETMs, i discovered that if the harness came from an MS41.0 based car, then the diag port cover has different internal bridges. I added a wire bridge from pin 15-20 on the back of the circuit board and removed pin 19 from the board. Put the cover back on and succeeded in connecting once again.

[ba114]

Ok I've hooked up all the correct wires. Checked and double checked. Still can't read the new dme which I've confirmed is a readable/flash able version.

Don't know what is going on now. Im certain I only need 4 wires hooked up:
Dme 28 to obd 5 (ground)
Dme 26 to obd 16 (battery 12v)
Dme 88 to obd 7 (kline)
Bridge Dme 26 to Dme 60 for read (program)

Dme 49 gets power on ignition through the harness.

Have tried with my d-can cable to no avail. The power led basically shuts off as soon as i try to read.
No luck getting my Bluetooth dongle and torque app to connect either. Power led stays lit and the read led flashes but Never finds the right protocol.

Waiting on a kkl cable to arrive and test.
Also have a US ms41.1 Dme on the way to try.
Last resort now is to find a spare harness to build a bench flash rig and see if that's successful.

[ba114]

Any luck wiring up an OBD2 port? I haven't been on RR for a while.

Port is wired. The issue was that my ecu was actually one of the very early ms41.0 dmes that wasn't flashable or even obd2 compliant.

Part number was 1427703. Have bought another one that should be here today.

[Northern]

Any luck wiring up an OBD2 port? I haven't been on RR for a while.

[ba114]

Haven't made much progress lately. Only thing of note was relocating the clutch reservoir from the side of the strut tower to the back of it where the battery tray has been cut out. Cut the old bracket and welded it into the new location

This was done to allow more space for the downpipe.

[ba114]

Spent the day today tearing out the 4.10 diff the 318I came with and mounting the 3.15 from the scrap car.

Getting the diff out was much easier than the last one. Knowing what to do already, made it a much smoother process.

Mounting the new diff proved difficult, particularly with my limited equipment. Managed to get there in the end, using various toolboxes as supports and a very careful balancing act with the the jack and a piece of mdf.

Only the one progress pic of the nearly finished mounting.