You're a genius this build is insane.
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'90 325i S52 to S54 '06 Z4M w/ ZF 6 Speed
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Hope to maybe get a pic if I can drop in on the exhaust shop. He is V-Banding the system, 2 Cats for CA visual and sniffer, post O2 bungs (even though it is coded out) and 2 bungs pre-cat for my Wideband LC-2 and George Graves Narrow/Wideband in visual in car. Going dual 3.5" all the way back. Not sure on muffler. No resonator for now on either bank.
Going to pass smog first and then add a remote electric exhaust cutout for fun.
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Originally posted by R3Z3N View PostSo I said to myself, why finish later when this software trial ends tonight at midnight. After this it will cost me at least $7 for Visio, or $109 for a year of SmartDraw. So I whipped this up and added what is needed for a full MSS54/HP A/C and Aux Fan experience for the Gen 1 CAN board.
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Correct the file is for gen 1 board with coolant and pressure sensor. 2nd digital out is for second trigger at temps stated, using a relay. Though for ease of tuning Derale makes an adjustable pwm fan module, that way you are not relying on files or or switches for a puller, and you get something easier on your wiringLast edited by R3Z3N; 02-04-2019, 02:13 PM.
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Well damn, Higgins muffler did a great job! He fixed my O2 sensor clearance issue, 2 02 bungs for wideband in both banks, and post cat bungs, though I would need to lengthen VERY much, but that is perfectly fine as they are just used to check cat health, not for any engine parameters while running.
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I was torn on the exhaust tips, but sleeper is where it's at for me. I had dual 3" straight tips on the S52 I believe which looked great IMO for what the exhaust was. Double walled would have been nice. For the cost this was epic ($1500)
Later I shall drop the exhaust and get it ceramic coated for protection I do believe, or just paint in silver high temp paint for 1600ºF. It is 2 sections with V-Bands. The shop fixed my O2 clearance problem on the headers which is just tits.
And btw yay DMV appointment made. The online system doesn't recognize that I own the car (I created a new online acct), and I need to get it registered (last was 2014), Registration was paid in Sept 2015, but no smog done since, so of course no registration valid even though it is paid.
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Originally posted by R3Z3N View PostI was torn on the exhaust tips, but sleeper is where it's at for me. I had dual 3" straight tips on the S52 I believe which looked great IMO for what the exhaust was. Double walled would have been nice. For the cost this was epic ($1500)
Later I shall drop the exhaust and get it ceramic coated for protection I do believe, or just paint in silver high temp paint for 1600ºF. It is 2 sections with V-Bands. The shop fixed my O2 clearance problem on the headers which is just tits.
And btw yay DMV appointment made. The online system doesn't recognize that I own the car (I created a new online acct), and I need to get it registered (last was 2014), Registration was paid in Sept 2015, but no smog done since, so of course no registration valid even though it is paid.
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Well, car drove off to my mechanic just fine, no misfires....no codes thrown from them and of course I reset codes while wanting it to toss new ones for them.
Got compliments on the exhaust sound, I still have no idea. My Mishi Rad has a pinhole leak, going to warranty that tomorrow. They will shorten the AC hose which is slightly in the way of the RAD hose, bleed brakes, add the E46 Rad Hose sensor (as its coming off anyway) Not sure if I will fill the AC, might just pull the AC belt for now while I wait to install the proper way to run it.
I am hoping the brakes work fine, but if not I will step up in Master Cyl size. I want a firm pedal that engages close to the DBW pedal for good heal/toe.
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Would love to hear the setup. I'm going to be crossing that bridge REAL soon. Im concerned about drone and rasp with these motors...IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Gary at Tilton rocks. He thinks #2 will be best, as I can quickly swap the pivot point at the MC bracket, yet decently streetable, however Tilton does not make an MC unit that is compatible with ABS WITH the current mounting that I have.
AP Racing does CLICK HERE
Tiltons are ~$105 each
AP Racings are ~$375 each
Do it right or go home. Gary from Tilton stated that if using a non ABS MC, the seals will get nibbled away when ABS triggers, and there is a chance it will bend the balance bar with the back bounce pressure. Soooo...here's to spending money!! Grab a beer with me please, I need another tonight.
He mentioned installing the overhang pedals instead...would love to, but AP Racing will have to do. So sorry Gary. I really really appreciate your time. Maybe someday I will swap to overhang pedals and Tilton ABS MCs, especially as it would provide easier maintenance IMO.
- Predictions for your master cylinder bore size are 13/16” front and 15/16” rear with a spec. 7.1 pedal ratio at 100lb. pedal effort.
- Predictions for your master cylinder bore size are 3/4” front and 7/8” rear with a spec. 7.1 pedal ratio at 85lb. pedal effort.
- Predictions for your master cylinder bore size are 3/4” front and 7/8” rear with a spec. 6.1 pedal ratio at 100lb. pedal effort.
- Predictions for your master cylinder bore size are 7/10” front and 13/16” rear with a spec. 6.1 pedal ratio at 85lb. pedal effort.
This is with E36 M3 from brakes @ 60mm sliding caliper and Wilwood Superlights Quad Piston 1.25" x 1.12" and a pedal ratio's of 7:1 and 6:1 which I have. He needed rotor sizes and weight distribution of the car. Without driver and with driver after Chipotle but without fuel.
Last edited by R3Z3N; 02-08-2019, 09:56 PM.
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