That's the worst. My car was assembled when I got it, but it was put back together at some point by a buffoon, so I'm in a similar situation. RealOEM diagrams are your friend. I spend more time figuring out how to duplicate OEM routings/trim pieces than on anything else.
Either way, keep at it. Sure you could leave non-essential parts out but you end up with ill fitments, rattling, etc., which when taken together separates some old beater car from a proper restoration.
325es noob build
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So my cat-back is rusted to shit.... Suggestions for a budget friendly replacement? Turner has a Bosal cat-back which sounds nice, but I think I need to fabricate a "Y" or something to work with my single pipe cat.... The only ones I see that come with a single pipe setup are Magnaflows, but I really can't drop down $600 right now.Leave a comment:
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Washed the engine bay today. Tucked some things away and tightened a couple loose bolts. Lazy Sunday.....Leave a comment:
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Pulled AC system. Found out it wasn't charged anyways. Cleaned up the engine bay quite nicely. Pictures laterLeave a comment:
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Small update while day dreaming at work.... AC delete. As noted earlier, my AC compressor is just hanging by a zip tie. I don't know if it works and don't know where all the mounting bolts/brackets are. I'm planning on just taking that bitch outta there and cleaning up the bay a little bit. Should allow for more cooling too without the condenser in front of my radiator.Leave a comment:
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Ok so I did have the lower radiator hose on backwards. That's why it ran into the alternator :/. Put the old one back on and all is well. Unfortunately this engine was taken apart when I started so I really don't have a good reference as to where things go.
In fact, I discovered today that there are heat shield things for my motor mounts that I didnt put on.....Leave a comment:
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Thanks!

So this happened too. Alternator fan rubbed a hole in my radiator hose :( I don't know how else to rout it so that it isn't near the fan. Is there supposed to be a shroud or something?Leave a comment:
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The oil check light is for low oil level. The oil light on the dash is for low oil pressure.So my oil light on the check panel came on while driving. Turned the car off for awhile, restarted and it was gone. Then my coolant check light came on :/ . First off, what is the difference between the oil check light and the oil light on the cluster? Secondly, bad sensors?
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So my oil light on the check panel came on while driving. Turned the car off for awhile, restarted and it was gone. Then my coolant check light came on :/ . First off, what is the difference between the oil check light and the oil light on the cluster? Secondly, bad sensors?Leave a comment:
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New hub assemblies made a huge difference! I actually had the courage to smash the pedal a little bit.
It's all coming togetherLeave a comment:
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https://vimeo.com/190815160 well thar she blows. Loose as can be.
New hub/bearing assemblies came in today and will be installed this weekend. Next test will be a run to the gas station. Im hoping no mechanical issues and no CHP since I'm non-op.
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Zip ties? That's incredible..lolWent back and preloaded the CSB. Checked to make sure all drivetrain fasteners were tight and drove it up the block again. I didn't feel the same knocking, only felt rough bearings. I also forgot to mention by AC compressor is just zip tied to the block so that was probably banging around some as well.
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Went back and preloaded the CSB. Checked to make sure all drivetrain fasteners were tight and drove it up the block again. I didn't feel the same knocking, only felt rough bearings. I also forgot to mention by AC compressor is just zip tied to the block so that was probably banging around some as well.
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So what's up with preloading the CSB? I didn't do that prior to test drive. Could that be making some of the vibration I was hearing/feeling? I know for sure I have a bad wheel bearing/hub, but I'm wondering if it's a combo of both.
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