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Kelso's Cvilized(?) 325ic

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    #16
    Thanks for the reply.

    Pin 19 showing voltage is the best lead I have to go on. I just looked at the car and all the wires appear to be connected to the appropriate terminals and grounding points. But I did again verify that voltage is present at DME connector Pin 19 with the key in the "on" position.

    Guess it's time to start splitting the harness and chasing that wire.

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      #17
      Minor Update: Pin 19 has continuity to ground with the key in the "Off" position. Once you flip it "On" it gets 12 volts and loses continuity to ground.

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        #18
        We are here due to an oil leak from the head gasket between cylinder 1 and 2. I'm replacing with an OEM gasket but wondering about opinions on copper spray. Do y'all use it or not? Think it would help seal those oil drainage passages if I plop it on there a touch tacky?



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          #19
          Originally posted by Kelso840 View Post
          We are here due to an oil leak from the head gasket between cylinder 1 and 2. I'm replacing with an OEM gasket but wondering about opinions on copper spray. Do y'all use it or not? Think it would help seal those oil drainage passages if I plop it on there a touch tacky?



          I can't see the photos, but copper spray will not make up for a warped head or block. If you have the head off I would check it with a straight edge and a feeler gauge to see how flat it is. If its warped copper spray may help hold it together short term but it will fail again unless its machined flat.

          apexgoblin - versteht nicht jeder. Ist auch besser so!

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            #20
            What happened with the MS and Pin 19?
            Did you fix it?
            '87 BMW E30 325is Turbo
            '86 BMW E28 535i
            '98 BMW E36 328i
            '90 Mazda NA Miata Turbo
            '04 Jeep TJ
            '05 Yamaha R6

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              #21
              Originally posted by ApexGoblin View Post

              I can't see the photos, but copper spray will not make up for a warped head or block. If you have the head off I would check it with a straight edge and a feeler gauge to see how flat it is. If its warped copper spray may help hold it together short term but it will fail again unless its machined flat.
              I'll throw a straight edge on it but I have no reason to believe it's warped. Oil leaking from the side of the head seems to be a very common issue regardless of how much abuse the engine has seen. If anything my mistake was using a non OEM head gasket, which I will be correcting this time around.

              Originally posted by Panici View Post
              What happened with the MS and Pin 19?
              Did you fix it?
              I honestly don't remember what was going on with that but it obviously got resolved because the car has been running for over a year. The poor running issue right after I got it started turned out to be a split fuel feed line inside the tank.

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                #22

                Updating with hopefully fixed photos. One head stud got stuck and it made removing the head and manifolds assembly a huge PITA. Spent some time burning that stud at the stake and it eventually came out.




                Hanging my head.


                Prepped for reassembly.


                Boop. 70 ft/lbs.



                OEM gasket and copper spray. Hopefully no more oil leak on the exhaust side when I fire it up sometime in the next week.

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                  #23
                  Looking good!
                  What's left to go together for a test fire?
                  '87 BMW E30 325is Turbo
                  '86 BMW E28 535i
                  '98 BMW E36 328i
                  '90 Mazda NA Miata Turbo
                  '04 Jeep TJ
                  '05 Yamaha R6

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by Panici View Post
                    Looking good!
                    What's left to go together for a test fire?
                    Need to come up with a new turbo oil drain line then fill it with fluids. Probably some other items I'm forgetting but it's just about ready to fire.

                    Stay tuned for the next episode of Crank or Clank!

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                      #25
                      Well..... it clanked. Need to tear it apart again and inspect the damage. Engine fired up but it was making the hateful sound of valves meeting pistons.

                      Thankfully I've got 2 spare heads.

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                        #26
                        Belt jumped about ten teeth. Guessing it's because I didn't turn it over by hand and let the tensioner take up the slack. Since I'm a lazy person, I stopped halfway through disassembly and reset the timing. Fired it back up and it's.... ok?

                        Sounds surprisingly normal after hearing the valves hitting the pistons yesterday. Need to put the cooling system and exhaust back together and let it run longer. Probably down a couple compression points but that's what the turbo is for.

                        Click image for larger version

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                          #27
                          Car's running a bit lean and overheating but it's back to life.

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                            #28
                            140-150 psi across all cylinders. Color me shocked on this 200k+ engine that's had piston on valve contact at least once and boost for over a year. Installed new BRP7ES spark plugs gapped to 0.30mm I think? I've already forgotten.

                            I can hear a vacuum leak somewhere but I'm gaining confidence that it's not about to explode.

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                              #29
                              Spent way too long trying to install a goofy Android radio so I can have a MS digi dash. Got it powered up but can't figure out where the heck to run the speaker + and -. I've watched this video and my stock setup seems to be a little bit different.

                              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6AJP4dyXZWA

                              The radio that came out of the car had one yellow wire for both left speakers and one blue wire for both white speakers. Both wires run up into the fader, then split into the + and - for the left and right speakers (yellow and blue respectively) run out and back into the depths of the dashboard. The three brown wires grounded to the back of housing connected to three more brown wires that run back into the dashboard.

                              https://imgur.com/a/LPempSP

                              I got the speakers to make sound by running the positive speaker signal through the antenna(? - they touched on accident and I heard music), and then running the negative signal wire to the single yellow wire that feeds the balance fader. That don't make no sense.

                              Anybody seen this radio setup and know what I'm missing? Pretty sure it's a CM509.
                              Last edited by Kelso840; 08-27-2022, 11:38 AM.

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                                #30
                                Long story short, radio is installed.

                                Short story long: Common ground adapter goes between the new head unit and the car's stock wiring. The four wires from the common ground adapter are then spliced into the 4 wires coming out of the fader switch.

                                Fader has 2 inputs from the stock radio (yellow and blue), then 4 outputs that run the speaker + signals to the factory amp in the trunk. Amplifier still needs power to the white wire (may be labeled antenna - they're spliced together), so grab that from your new head unit's "amplifier control" output wire and make sure to toggle that setting "on" in the new radio.

                                I spent way too long trying to figure out why I had no volume control at the knob. The knob was broken.



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