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84 318 Zender Rebuild

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  • ZEKTI
    replied
    Well with the help of my friend BlueBimma (BFC) the car is running and about 95 percent completed. Thank you R3V community for all the help, suggestions and tutorials to help an amatuer rebuild. There are small things that need addressed still but I took it on an 11 road issue free road trip to Manhattan where it currently resides. So if you see it putzing around say Hi. I still don’t have temp or a correct tach even after the cluster rebuild so I am assuming somewhere between the 2 is an issue. I couldn’t get the temp gauge to have any reading even grounding it out. The nest of new hoses,pump and connectors.



    Replacing the CSB, dust caps, and centering bushing
    .


    I prefer the aftermarket radio to any older period correct or that Continental thing.



    First drive home, nothing like headlights at the ground. Nice 1.5 hour break in.


    Week of NYC trip reman steering rack pisses everywhere. Unknown mileage one later all is well. Thanks fellow e30 friend.

    Couldn’t have driven smoother. I prefer my 318Ti chassis but on a smooth road the Bilstein cup kit is fantastic.



    Driving into Manhattan


    It's so tiny. (center caps removed since I didn't want them falling off.
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    Last edited by ZEKTI; 08-13-2019, 05:53 PM.

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  • gnmzl
    replied
    Hard to see for sure.
    Can't wait for seeing this car on the road and in action (road trippin)

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  • ZEKTI
    replied
    Thanks, I hope to have ready for road trips soon. There is a ground cable on the back that is hard to see.



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  • gnmzl
    replied
    Looks amazing, great work! All those fresh and shiny bits make me smile!

    On a side note: I notice your alternator is the type with a rubber bushing instead of a solid one. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe on the type with the rubber bushing, you need to have a ground wire between the alternator and the engine block. On the type with the solid one, it is not needed as the ground is taken from the alternator's cover.

    Number 6 on the diagram.

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  • ZEKTI
    replied
    Got some more progress done and the engine in. I believe the harness is wired correctly to the starter and alternator but if anyone can double check please do.

    I also thought the radio would be easy but the harness was also cut already.

    Got some fog light covers from Euroclassicparts.

    Cluster went out to BavRest to be fully overhauled and simple black rings installed. Coming together well and I hope to be driving by end of May.

    I am still searching for a local company to create the fuel tank connector. Hope to have a few made for the community.

    Thank you all for the support.



























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  • ZEKTI
    replied
    Got some progress done this weekend. Most of the vacuum lines and all the coolant hoses are hooked up. Some hoses are now NLA so glad eBay still has some. I need to figure out where the vaccum lines all go, but it should be easy enough.

    New alternator to make it visually pleasing. Painting lots of little bits.

    Injectors tested locally and all good! Rebuild kit is cheap and simple.

    Chase Bays front to rear brake like it installed. Make sure to use some washers on the connectors and as I’m on drums there will be some slack.

    The E21 Facebook Forums had the correct coolant flange as the one from ECS was for an E21/E30 Carb'd/
























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  • ZEKTI
    replied
    Thanks gnmzl. The M10 is nice and simple. Thankfully everything is still easy to find.

    I got a few more things done. Some areas underneath prepped with POR15. Brackets and such cleaned up and ready for paint. New fuel lines and the Chase Bays front to rear brake line kit. No more hard/soft lines. All 1 system and going to be very easy to put together. I also picked up their ground wire kit to eliminate any issues.

    Still many parts to install. The manifold is just on hand tight until I get the correct coolant flange. I was sent one for a carb’d car. There are some coolant lines I am using the silicone hoses for as they are NLA.












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  • gnmzl
    replied
    I love this so much! Good work on that m10, you give me the bug to refresh my own.
    Also, that paint job looks great and the car with the kit on it is definitely something else. Very pleased with what I see, keep doing what you do!

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  • ZEKTI
    replied
    Engine progress continues, accessories are bolted back on. Next will the be intake bolted on. Ordered most of the lines but some are NLA from BMW so I will have to make those. Morimoto 2 Stroke LEDs for DEPO housing are plug n play. No splicing the factory.

    New fuel tank and hoses/lines arrived. However the Specta fuel pump doesn’t fit into the tank. Is there a trick to getting it in? The c clamps hit the opening. Old pump was original and gross. Does anyone make an aftermarket line that
    Goes in between the 2 tanks or is it easier just to make one?

    Ordered a new coolant flange but only has 2 sensors vs 3. Part #s match per Real OEM. Anyone have any insight?

    While the original plan to make a high HP motor hasn’t come about, this is still a fun motor to mess with. Thank you to the vendors and manufacturers still making parts, makes it so much easier.


























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    Last edited by ZEKTI; 01-13-2019, 06:18 PM.

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  • ZEKTI
    replied
    Painted the engine bay at home, as I originally had not planned on doing it, but with the car back from paint it seemed necessary. PS pump is also rebuilt. Finishing cleaning up the hardware and sourcing new. I'm hoping someone in Detroit area can re zinc or I can just try myself. I need also get the front and rear window chrome. As the stock yellow is pretty brittle.

    I know the amp/sub combo are low quality and just carries the name. But 4 5.25" weren't going to cut it and the tiny alternator couldn't push the DB Drive 10" that was in the box. Got some Depos as stock is gross for lighting. Will be using Morimoto 2Stroke 2.0LED bulbs.

    Does any one recommend a good body adhesive? BMW has their own lineup but I think Lord Fusor also has something good. I'm hoping to have the motor in by the holiday time.

    Thanks for the help all. Enjoy the weekend!









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  • ZEKTI
    replied
    Car is mostly put back together. Have to do the trim pieces, mount rear valance better. The Zender plastic tabs aren’t available so I’m looking for different ways to mount. Motor still needs work and there is a table full of parts.

    Does anyone know of a 5 bolt pattern e30 steering wheel hub? Or if there is a universal one that has been successful?




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    Last edited by ZEKTI; 10-18-2018, 02:37 PM.

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  • ZEKTI
    replied
    Charbel got the car done and it’s amazing. I have some work to do with the body kit and getting new hardware/mounting. It’s typical 80s fitment. I’ll get some good photos once everything back together. I’m going to wet sand in a few weeks.


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  • ZEKTI
    replied
    Got some more parts ordered and the car is at body shop getting rust spots fixed and painted.

    gnmzl - Found a NOS dampener for the motor off Ebay. Wasn't cheap but least it's there. I'd like to find a more modern replacement if possible.

    Does anyone know if the stock exhaust gasket works with headers? I thought about just cutting it to make fit but are there any universal ones that fit? I looked around and could only find turbo manifold singles.

    Got the trans cleaned and painted. Will add the new shifter mounts, etc next weekend and get it ready.

    Ordered a PS pump rebuild kit as it seems to be pretty straightforward. The BMW PS line was $170 and I debated making one using AN fittings. However last minute I checked RockAuto as sometimes they have random parts no one else has. Sure enough there was an Edelmann and Gates hose for $30/40. They had the same marking on them so i figured same manufacturer. I grabbed the Edelmann and it's made in Mexico. I'm sure it'll be fine for the limited use the E30 will get.

    The last of the hoses and lines were ordered so now I should be able to start adding the accessories. I've left out ordering all new hardware and only order what will be needed. It'll take longer to assemble but for now I've got the time.

    Charbel is pretty popular in Michigan for having various E30 projects and old BMWs. I'm not sure if he is very active on here but many thanks go out to him and his extensive E30 knowledge. Bodywork should be wrapped up in a few weeks.

    Thanks to all for the help on this!



    Really like the Duplicolor lineup so far.




    Will sand the black paint off raised edges for some contrast.





    The trans took hours with power washer and engine degreasers.




    Body kit hid a lot, nothing Charbel can't fix.












    This is why hood bubbles



    More to come soon. This piece been taking away my time.

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  • ZEKTI
    replied
    Originally posted by gnmzl View Post
    Looking really good! To your questions:

    1. I would reinstall it. M10 vibrations are horrible at idle even without AC
    2. If you are not planning on stand alone ECU you can have the stock one reprogrammed to work without O2 sensor. Nevertheless, I'd add a bung and plug it, just so I know I have options down the road.
    3. If there was no or small amount of oil on the mating surface, a good clean should be fine.

    What I did on my m10 for flywheel was - m20 lightened flywheel with the starter gear transferred over from the m10 unit (m10 is smaller diameter) so the m10 starter motor can be reused in this application. M20 heavy duty LUK clutch assembly, the taller TOB from e21 323. Feels much better than the stock m10 clutch.
    Thanks for the response. Thankfully the shock can still be purchased from BMW so I will grab locally. I think i'll take to my welding guy and just have a bung welded in for the O2 sensor. Easy enough.

    The old flywheel has oil that leaked when the car was still being used and pressed in repeatedly through the clutch. I'll see what some basic cleaning can do and then consult a local shop if it won't come clean.

    Side Note, I saw you're from Bulgaria. I was there many years ago. Beautiful Country!

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  • gnmzl
    replied
    Looking really good! To your questions:

    1. I would reinstall it. M10 vibrations are horrible at idle even without AC
    2. If you are not planning on stand alone ECU you can have the stock one reprogrammed to work without O2 sensor. Nevertheless, I'd add a bung and plug it, just so I know I have options down the road.
    3. If there was no or small amount of oil on the mating surface, a good clean should be fine.

    What I did on my m10 for flywheel was - m20 lightened flywheel with the starter gear transferred over from the m10 unit (m10 is smaller diameter) so the m10 starter motor can be reused in this application. M20 heavy duty LUK clutch assembly, the taller TOB from e21 323. Feels much better than the stock m10 clutch.

    Leave a comment:

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