Originally posted by slammin.e28guy
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OFFICIAL Land Rover thread.
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Originally posted by 5ickride View PostI was gunho about a RRC but now a Disco I is also in the running. What's a tell sign that its a Disco I vs II. Would the door handles be one sign?1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.
Originally posted by DEV0 E30You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.
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Originally posted by quickervicar View PostOn the interior the DII will have the Three Amigos lit up on the dash.1974.5 Jensen Healey : 2003 330i/5
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Originally posted by quickervicar View PostWhat are you looking for? If you want solid, (brutally) honest answers I'd head to discoweb or pirate4x4. If you want to find the best lift spacers to get you to the mall & back, then LRO is a good choice.
Originally posted by James View PostDiscoweb is the only choice.
Can you guys look at this ad and tell me if this sounds like a solid car? Pics look decent, nothing out of the ordinary, just a little rust:
Rare soft dash long wheelbase Classic with all the expensive mechanical bits repaired or replaced. Runs 100 percent on stock Defender wheels with brand new Nokian tires (and comes with a fifth Defender spare).
Recent work performed (service records from Classic 4x4 in Fairfield, CT provided upon request):
-Replaced viscous coupling ($1,400)
-Replaced steering box ($950)
-Resealed swivel housings ($650)
-Replaced headliner ($600)
-Replaced alternator ($600)
-Hatch seals replaced ($150)
-Complete tuneup (passed CT emissions in May)
-Previous owner replaced the air suspension system with springs
The truck starts immediately and runs and shifts perfectly with good temperature and oil pressure, no leaks and no surprises. Has a racing catalytic converter and exhaust system, which makes the truck slightly peppier than a standard one (although not drag car by any stretch of the imagination!). Exterior has the Brooklands body kit, with subtle pinstriping, running boards and taillight cages. Panels are in good shape, with a few dings here and there. Paintwork is average and slightly dull, with no scrapes or surface rust. Interior is in above average shape, with no rips or tears in the leather. Carpets are good, and covered by OEM Land Rover rubber mats. The front seats show normal wear for the age but present very well. A set of OEM vinyl waterproof seat covers is included in the sale. Air conditioning blows ice cold and heat can melt your plastic coffee cup. Dash has two lights on, traction control and ABS. I had both checked out by my mechanic and neither are the result of any mechanical issues. Most likely a sensor or a relay. All functions work except the rear window switches and the stock CD changer. The original radio still works well, and I have the security code. The passenger door latch occasionally acts up and requires you to lock and unlock it before it will secure. Solid frame and bodywork, with two small areas of rust in the lower back corners of the rear door sills. Relatively straightforward patch job. The tailgate also has some slight surface rust, but is solid and closes securely.
The truck isn't perfect, but it's low mileage, reliable and about as good in the snow as you'll find. All of the main mechanical trouble spots with these trucks have been addressed. I'm just looking for something better equipped to secure two carseats.
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I am never concerned with mechanical bits on my Rover. It might let me down, but it will never leave me stranded. Electrical crap is what I worry about. Those two lights had better be cleared before I sign on the dotted line. It could just be a wheel sensor, but why wouldn't the mechanic be able to tell that rather quickly?
So this guy just spent $4400 (before Nokians) on recent maintenance? FYI: in the last 2 years I resealed my own swivel housings (ALL the seals are <$25 per side; labor shouldn't be more than 2 hours total) and had my headliner refinished ($175). What's the asking price for Rusting Beauty?
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Rust.
I found some, well, a little more than some.
Dicking with the ABS and I pulled the aluminium door sill off, peeled the carpet back and BAM! Hello frame rail!
Question, what body bits exactly are aluminium?
Also, this:
http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/B...5/Products/003
Anyone used them before?
Not that I'm doing this right away, but I would like to nip it in the bud sooner than later.1974.5 Jensen Healey : 2003 330i/5
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I think price is a pretty subjective thing with rovers, you're going to end up spending the same if you plan to keep it over the long term. My two 95 discoverys one of which I paid 7k for a number of years ago and the 1200 dollar one I picked up this fall both suffer from the same problems you could easily forget which truck you're working on.
I'd say that range rover isn't excessively over priced but its not exactly a bargain. It really depends if you're willing to pay a premium for the (your) "ideal truck" and to me a lwb RRC isn't my ideal so its expensive. The ABS light is nothing, you're better off just pulling the fuse and having a reliable brake system..
What are the miles on it anyways? Am I blind?
-Slammin' the roof and internal structure (pillars, floors etc) are steel. The wings, door skins, and hood are aluminum
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I missed out on yet another awesome Discovery1. I really hate not being local or first. I feel like I'm never going to be able to get another vehicle let alone something I actually want.1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.
Originally posted by DEV0 E30You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.
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